New master cylinder or not?!?
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Well finally two weeks after waiting for my transmission to be rebuilt I pushed my car back into the auto shop from sitting in the parking lot and got my Transmission installed back in one piece. I got an LS7 clutch package plus slave, throwout bearing, and remote bleeder from east coast performance. Everything went back together smoothly in about two hours until we got to the bleeding part. I dont have a mightyvac and I have no clue where to get one other than online and I really don't have the time to wait for shipment. The wife starting new job next week need my car back on the road. The problem we had is I pulled the remote bleeder through the hood and we bleed the car for a good 30 minutes and never got pressure in the pedal. The guys at the autoshop told me my master cylinder was shot because once I accidently push the clutch pedal in when we were pushing the car and I was steering it (yeah, bad habit first getting into the car). They said it flipped the seals around in the master cylinder and made it go bad. We used a whole can of fluid bleeding it and it pushed pressure fine when the pedal is pressed it just wont build pressure. As soon as the pedal is lifted I can hear the master cylinder sucking in new fluid and watch it drop. We did both push pedal 3 times, crack bleeder, close bleeder, lift pedal and also tried cracking bleeder, push pedal down, close bleeder, then slowly lift the pedal up. Got no pressure.
Should I go ahead and pick up a master cylinder at my local parts store (they have one in stock) or do you guys think from personal opinion its not the master cylinder and its probably got air in the lines that old fashion pedal pumping wont fix. We are bleeding up and through the hood with the remote bleeder, every pump is straight fluid no air bubbles.
Should I go ahead and pick up a master cylinder at my local parts store (they have one in stock) or do you guys think from personal opinion its not the master cylinder and its probably got air in the lines that old fashion pedal pumping wont fix. We are bleeding up and through the hood with the remote bleeder, every pump is straight fluid no air bubbles.
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I went ahead and replaced the master cylinder and bled it with a might vac today from the reservoir. Bleeding took a while but I finally got all the air out took about 40 minutes of bleeding with 4 mightyvac hook ups to the reservoir. I can drive the car not but it is a bitch getting it in gear. Is this normal? Or is it something to do with the master cylinder? Like reverse I really have to shove on the stick to get it in gear feels like im going to break it off. I drove it home from the shop and only made it up into 4th but its not too bad. Im wondering if the transmission just needs to be broken in. I just had a shop rebuilt it because the 3rd-4th syncro was shot and so was 3rd gear and he replaced some seals. But, im sure he didnt mess with reverse. Is it something to do with my new LS7 clutch just being stiff to get into gear but to me that seems like a transmission problem.
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If your talking about when I pushed the clutch pedal down when it wasnt hooked to the slave cylinder, that might have been my problem. But, I didnt feel like screwing with it so I went ahead and replaced my master cylinder and did the drill mod while I was at it.
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I think there is a lock out cylinder that prevents you from putting the shifter in reverse while moving (I think that's what it's for). Anyway, if it is disconnected or the cylinder is bad, it would be difficult to get it into reverse.