Clutch bleeding/bleeder valve
#1
Clutch bleeding/bleeder valve
I just did the drill mod on my 02 Trans Am. Everything went smooth until I needed to loosen the bleeder valve on the transmission. I can't get the socket to go on the bleeder valve. I am using a 1/4 drive 7/16 socket just like install university says to do. Is there a trick to get the socket to go over the bleeder. I saw where somebody drilled a hole in there floor board for easier access to the bleeder. I would rather not drill a hole in my floor. I've been under the car for about an hour tring to get the socket on, but it just won't go. Is there any tricks to doing this that I don't know about.
Thanks in advance,
Scott
Thanks in advance,
Scott
#2
I want to say I used an 11mm socket, not a 7/16, but I don't remember for sure, Just get it up there and play, you should be able to feel it with your fingers. You can also bench bleed the bleeder, and suck out extra air with a mighty vac to avoid final bleeding the old fashion way.
With where the stock bleeder is I worry about getting fluid on the clutch itself.
With where the stock bleeder is I worry about getting fluid on the clutch itself.
#3
You can run to AutoZone and pick up a 3/8" breaker bar for about $6. (or 1/4", but I use a 3/8" )
Slide the 7/16" socket on to the bleeder valve first, and then wiggle the breaker bar in to the socket.
Socket wrenches are hard to work with, because you can't "crack" the valve easily. A breaker bar makes it a snap - plus they're low profile enough to where they fit between the body and the trans.
You *might* have to push / lever the socket on to the bleeder. Sometimes the bleeder doesn't line up exactly with the slot. Some force may be necessary.
I drilled a hole in my floor so I could bleed the clutch by myself. Still use the same breaker bar tho.
Slide the 7/16" socket on to the bleeder valve first, and then wiggle the breaker bar in to the socket.
Socket wrenches are hard to work with, because you can't "crack" the valve easily. A breaker bar makes it a snap - plus they're low profile enough to where they fit between the body and the trans.
You *might* have to push / lever the socket on to the bleeder. Sometimes the bleeder doesn't line up exactly with the slot. Some force may be necessary.
I drilled a hole in my floor so I could bleed the clutch by myself. Still use the same breaker bar tho.
#4
I use an 11mm short socket with any 1/4" drive ratchet that has a thumb flip switch (either Mac or Snap-Off)
That way, I don't have to take the ratchet off of the socket to change direction...
I tried a mini breaker bar before, but I couldn't get it to swing as much as I needed...
It was either too low (not allowing me to tighten properly) or too high (not allowing me to loosen)...
Tried a few sockets with a different drive off-sets, but just couldn't get it right...
Ratchet works just fine for me...
Rick
That way, I don't have to take the ratchet off of the socket to change direction...
I tried a mini breaker bar before, but I couldn't get it to swing as much as I needed...
It was either too low (not allowing me to tighten properly) or too high (not allowing me to loosen)...
Tried a few sockets with a different drive off-sets, but just couldn't get it right...
Ratchet works just fine for me...
Rick
#5
Here is how you do it, I used a short 1/4 ratchet and an 11mm socket, place the socket on the bleeder valve seperate from the ratchet, then attatch the ratchet, but do not let the socket go past the ball bearing lock on the ratchet. Try this, worked like a charm for me.
#6
Thanks for the help guys, but I ended up just going out and got a MityVac instead and said the heck with the bleeder valve. I bled from the resevior and the MityVac worked great.
Thanks again,
Scott
Thanks again,
Scott