Broke 2nd Gear in Liberty's Faceplated Trans-PICS ADDED 4-26
#1
Broke 2nd Gear in Liberty's Faceplated Trans-PICS ADDED 4-26
I was messing around on the street today and powershifted into 2nd gear when I heard a huge bang, the car hit the rev limiter and I shifted into third to fourth. I slowed down to a stop and started in first, slid into 2nd gear and nothing is there. All other gears including reverse go into gear normal and there seems to be no the issues. When you shift into 2nd, it's very clean with no bangs or grinds. I'm thinking I broke the weld off the 2nd gear faceplate and it's just hanging out there.
Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks.
Liberty;s Faceplated 1-4
4000ish miles on it
Spec 5
Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks.
Liberty;s Faceplated 1-4
4000ish miles on it
Spec 5
Last edited by lower_the_dynamite; 04-26-2012 at 12:58 PM.
#2
Broke the 9 ears off 2nd gear. Also need to replace the Blockers for 5th/6th ,Blocker keys and springs for reverse and a needle bearing for 2nd. it could have been way worse. Going to send 2nd back to Liberty today and I was given a 2 week turnaround. Ordered the other parts from Tick today and will have those early next week.
One issue I have is a lot of copper in the oil. You can see on the driveshaft and the picture below of the tailshaft that the yoke is rubbing this. It's a 30 Spline. Any thoughts on why this would be happening? (Last Pic)
One issue I have is a lot of copper in the oil. You can see on the driveshaft and the picture below of the tailshaft that the yoke is rubbing this. It's a 30 Spline. Any thoughts on why this would be happening? (Last Pic)
#5
It was really my fault. I was power shifting and hardly pressed the clutch in. If it was a softloc or a slipper clutch, I'm sure it would have been fine. My SPEC 5 is a little less forgiving. Liberty described it as a "sledgehammer" on the faceplates when the clutch wasen't used. In all honestly, it won't be THAT much to fix and I know were fixing some other stuff along the way.
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#11
TECH Addict
iTrader: (9)
How did you break the keys/springs in Rev? Metal going thru them or did you hit Rev by mistake?
Do you have a stock tq-arm suspension? Looks like you're putting a lot of load on the yoke bushing or something's not round? did you have the 30spine mainshft/tail done at the same time as the faceplate? Might want to check the tail for runout after the bushing is replaced.
Do you have a stock tq-arm suspension? Looks like you're putting a lot of load on the yoke bushing or something's not round? did you have the 30spine mainshft/tail done at the same time as the faceplate? Might want to check the tail for runout after the bushing is replaced.
#12
How did you break the keys/springs in Rev? Metal going thru them or did you hit Rev by mistake?
Do you have a stock tq-arm suspension? Looks like you're putting a lot of load on the yoke bushing or something's not round? did you have the 30spine mainshft/tail done at the same time as the faceplate? Might want to check the tail for runout after the bushing is replaced.
Do you have a stock tq-arm suspension? Looks like you're putting a lot of load on the yoke bushing or something's not round? did you have the 30spine mainshft/tail done at the same time as the faceplate? Might want to check the tail for runout after the bushing is replaced.
I have a adjustable TA with the Tranny Crossmember mount(Keeps it off the trans). The 30 Spline was done the same time as the faceplating.
#13
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (28)
Only driven the car a few miles, I need to spend s day drving around And I should have ti good, but havnt drive the car all year too. Up shifting is fine normal 2500 shifts, DBL clutch and maybe a light clank/click, if you DBL clutch and wait 1 sec so it slows down and matches speed better I can do it no noise. Faster getting up to speed it looks like you shift faster, and just let it clank once, if you shift slower it clank/bangs louder. So I think even normal rpm shuifts you have to shift fast and just let it clank?
WOT is nuts, it like driving a arcade game I can see were you could not use the clutch or lift at all. I did both, but its like the trans used to be, you can kick the clutch as fast as you can and it goes in gear like its just a shifter flopping around. Down shifting I need to work on, I haven't driving a manual all winter so need some seat time. But even a rev match and your off 500 rpm its a bang. I few times I wanted to do a 2nd gear pull for 40-45ish, and was off maybe 1K rpms and it sounds like something broke. I was off maybe 1K rpms, and you can hear the lugs bang off themselfs. Thats got to be really bad for the lugs.
I know you can't wait to shift, there no easing it into gear (no fiction cone or whatever to slow/speed up the other gear. So it bangs, but I think I can learn that better. I think 2 times a clutched in and costed a bit then forgot what gear to go in, and it donly really want to easy into anything But I need to learn not to do that.
#15
8 Second 6 Speed Director
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yes it is like a video game, the higher the RPM the faster and easier it drops into the next gear!
matching revs is doable, it has taken a little bit of time to master. As well, i like freaking people out when i am driving down the street and you "bang" the next gear, lol!!!
i still use the clutch to shift
matching revs is doable, it has taken a little bit of time to master. As well, i like freaking people out when i am driving down the street and you "bang" the next gear, lol!!!
i still use the clutch to shift