Clutch grinding issue (Diamond Stg. 2)
08-04-2012, 05:25 PM
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Clutch grinding issue (Diamond Stg. 2) Hey guys,
2000 C5 Corvette
Initially the car came to me with these symptoms:
The bad noise comes on when I'm slipping the clutch, about midway between engaged and disengaged. Once the noise comes on, I can keep my foot on the clutch and pull it back into neutral and the grinding goes away. With the clutch still pressed in, It grinds trying to go into every gear.
Then, I took my foot off the clutch pedal, pressed the clutch back in, and everything was normal again. It seems like the clutch doesn't engage/disengage completely or something.
It's a Diamond stg 2 clutch with about 1000 miles on it. The noise just started this week according to the owner. When the new clutch was put in, he replaced the clutch assembly, pilot bearing, and slave/TO bearing.
I (with the help of some very experienced trans guys) determined that the stock master cylinder was leaking internally since I could pump the clutch once and it would act normal again. I put a Tick Master in it and the owner said everything was perfect for 4-5 days, but then it started doing the grinding noise again. I just had him come back to bleed the clutch using a MityVac and it did have some bubbles in it. The grinding is much less aggressive sounding than it was previously and now it is when he is BARELY letting out of the clutch. If he gives it more revs to start moving the car quicker, it doesn't grind.
I have the Tick Master on my personal C5, so I have adjusted them a few times. I feel like his is adjusted pretty well because he said shifting is perfectly smooth with no complaints, but I would be open to suggestions.
I'm really at a loss as to where to go from here as I really want to get this fixed for him and any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
2000 C5 Corvette
Initially the car came to me with these symptoms:
The bad noise comes on when I'm slipping the clutch, about midway between engaged and disengaged. Once the noise comes on, I can keep my foot on the clutch and pull it back into neutral and the grinding goes away. With the clutch still pressed in, It grinds trying to go into every gear.
Then, I took my foot off the clutch pedal, pressed the clutch back in, and everything was normal again. It seems like the clutch doesn't engage/disengage completely or something.
It's a Diamond stg 2 clutch with about 1000 miles on it. The noise just started this week according to the owner. When the new clutch was put in, he replaced the clutch assembly, pilot bearing, and slave/TO bearing.
I (with the help of some very experienced trans guys) determined that the stock master cylinder was leaking internally since I could pump the clutch once and it would act normal again. I put a Tick Master in it and the owner said everything was perfect for 4-5 days, but then it started doing the grinding noise again. I just had him come back to bleed the clutch using a MityVac and it did have some bubbles in it. The grinding is much less aggressive sounding than it was previously and now it is when he is BARELY letting out of the clutch. If he gives it more revs to start moving the car quicker, it doesn't grind.
I have the Tick Master on my personal C5, so I have adjusted them a few times. I feel like his is adjusted pretty well because he said shifting is perfectly smooth with no complaints, but I would be open to suggestions.
I'm really at a loss as to where to go from here as I really want to get this fixed for him and any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
08-04-2012, 05:44 PM
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I bled the clutch the first time using his remote bleeder. Today, I used a MityVac per a GM bulletin. However, I just read and understood that the MityVac way can only pull from what's on top of the slave.
I found the JMD method that states to use a spark plug boot and route a line back and submerge it into the reservoir. This would be the same as routing his remote bleeder back to the reservoir and pumping the clutch (with the bleed screw open, of course). I reckon I could try that for him...
I found the JMD method that states to use a spark plug boot and route a line back and submerge it into the reservoir. This would be the same as routing his remote bleeder back to the reservoir and pumping the clutch (with the bleed screw open, of course). I reckon I could try that for him...
