Hey guys my 99 ls1 ts has a t56 and i have always had a fairly hard time doing a full 1/4 mile strip without having shifting issues. from 2/3 and 3/4
I have got a 1999 6speed ls1 trans am that i just recently put a 228r cam in and i have noticed a sickening problem that is killing my cars power past 5,600rpm.. In any gear, full throttle, i gain speed quick until i reach 5600rpm and the engine just jumps to redline in an instant like it just completly disconnected from the tranny. Speed shifting is nearly impossible with my t56, after the 1st high rpm/speed shift (1/2)the 2/3 shift is nearly impossible to do quickly. After a non accelerating drift for about 15 secs the clutch builds up enough pressure to shift gears, but still not at high rpms. I have bled the hydraulic clutch system well and noticed no difference, then installed a Tick master cylinder, and bled the system thouroughly. Little to no results.
Syncrodes? bent forks? bad clutch? slave cyl? You tell me what you think, and were i should go from were I am at?
. I am in Houston
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Sorry if i am hard to understand in this post, I appreciate any help i can get.
Austin

 

Time for a new clutch. If you're lucky it won't have damaged/worn the blockers inside the trans so you can do a simple clutch swap and roll. If its been driven that way for a while, you may need the trans opened up and freshened/upgraded..

 

What clutch do you have?

 

It is a z06 clutCh with about 35k miles on it. I take it pretty easy on the clutch.
It just wraps out once i hit 5600 rpms. Consistantly 5600 rpms.
It is then real hard to get it out of gear once it does that

 

Depends on what year Z06 you're talking about. The LS6 Z0 has the same clutch as a LS1 and a LS7 clutch is only slightly better so I've heard. Regardless, that thing is fried. Go for an entire clutch kit with flywheel if possible and go with all new hydraulics and 02 model master cylinder.

 

this^^^ you need a clutch with a cam i'd look at a monster stage 1 or 2 both are great street clutchs and if you can afford it go ith a tick master cylinder the stocker works but it marginal the tick is a nice piece to have.

 

Two things going against you in your set-up:
35k mile clutch
Z06 clutch

Plan on a new clutch, and how old is the slave?

He has our master already guys.

May as well get a speed bleeder while you at it too.

 

That is what I was afraid of.
And yes it is a ls6 clutch
YES this tick master is a nice piece for sure, good job!
So, now my question is, what should i replace from here since the tranny will be out anyways. It sucks I will have to pay someone to do it now that I am going back to college for the year.
This is a STREET car that I take to the track every so often. Makes 378 rwhp cam ls6 only. Looking to do a head swap in the future, followed by a turbo build. But for now lets just say i need a clutch setup to withstand a 228r cam and some good flowing heads.
So you guys suggest,,,,,,,
New flywheel'?? what kind/material? aluminum? steel? average price?
What clutch for my goals? a good quality one with a good reputation that wont break my bank. Price??
What slave? I have a new slave/throwout bearing assembly with about 15-20k miles on it. Price?
Also, Martin, how much do you guys charge to do my type of job. removal, clutch, reassembly? and how much do you expect a local trans shop to charge? rough estimate

Thanks guys.

 

well if your doing a cam and will have the tranny out for the clutch then you def should replace the pilot bearing and slave. also i'd look at a monster stage 1 or 2 their customer service is second to none and the clutches are badass. the level one will drive like stock just with better holding power while the level 2 will be a bit more harsh but be totally streetable. colorado speed has the stage 1 on sale for 530 and 580 for the stage 2.

i'd also go steel on the flywheel. the lightweight ones tend to be better for road racing because it helps with revving and throttle response midrange. however for the track and dig racing the steel is usually better because it makes for an easier launch and inertia transfer at lower speeds

 

Here is what I would suggest:http://www.tickperformance.com/monst...-capacity-550/

28lb billet steel flywheel, new GM bolts(or ARP if you want stronger) and of course the F-body slave.

We charge 320 dollars to replace a clutch, slave pilot bearing and flywheel here at our shop. 4 hour job at 80$ an hour is what I would use as a standard to measure from.

 

Arite I got a monster lvl2 550 tq clutch, new slave, 28lb flywheel. Thanks for the help. I will let you guys know when i put em in

 

Thanks for the business!!!

Let us know how it works out we love to hear feedback good or bad!

 

Ok guys I have about 250 miles on the monster level 2 clutch. I went ahead and got the flywheel installed, and the new slave cylinder. The clutch is as solid as can be and shift Satisfied!
The slipping/no shifting problem at high rpms has vanished, and it shifts great. The quality tick master cylinder combined with a new slave and clutch has made my shifting much better. I can do a hard launch followed by a super fast 1-2 shift, 2-3 is slightly slower then 1-2 but it is very very fast. 3-4 is a breeze. Clutch petal pressure and travel is great. The short travel and "stiffer than stock petal pressure" (not much) makes speed shifting a breeze. I am happy with the setup I have now. Thanks for the help!

One question though. I am not too worried about it, but I would like to make sure it is not an installation/alignment problem that could cause premature wear on the clutch.
When starting from a dead stop, 1st gear, doing an easy take off (like at a stoplight in town) I have noticed a noise coming from the bell housing. It is a sound like a grinding/chattering coming from the clutch. I think it is just the hevier duty clutch but my curiosity is aroused. It seems to be louder when the rpms go below idle at a take off.
What are your thoughts

Overall, I have nothing but good things to say about Tick. Very, very fast shipping, good advice.
Thanks.

 

most likely you are getting a little bit of clutch chatter. the level 2 shouldnt chatter at all after its broken in (500 mi) but you do have to change your driving style a little bit because being a high performance clutch it doesnt like to slip as much. when driving the car try blipping the throttle and release the clutch for a faster enagement i.e little to no slipping and i bet you'll see it go away

 

Yes, this is most likely the clutch chattering because it hasn't been broken in yet. Mine chattered all of the 500 break in miles and even a little bit afterwards. Make sure you are easy on it and give it 500 city miles, no highway factored in. It needs a good break in period, but it should be fine after that. I love my Monster Lvl2!

 

Thanks for the help guys! I figured that is what it was. I have tried the "blipping" the gas and doing a little faster clutch release, and it does seem to quiet it down some. I have adapted to this new clutch and Tick master pretty well.
I did some good stop go, stop go, stop go driving today through neighborhoods helping some elderly folks clean sticks and leaves from their lawns after hurricane Issac down here in south Lousiana. The noise is quieting down a little, and the car is taking off a little smoother, I will keep you guys updated on this matter, I am sure it is nothing to worry about though..and you guys made me feel better about it.

Also, should I refrain from 5k+rpm shifts until 500-600 miles or so are on the clutch, or until it is broken in?

Whiles I am speaking to you transmission literate guys, I have another question

I have a really annoying "bucking" of the car when idling in gear. It could be at 45 in 6th gear, 20 in 3rd, any gear were the engine is around idle (maybe +/- 100rpm from idle). I have always experienced this but only when idling through traffic in 1st gear or like circumstances. I know that a cam will make a car buck more, especially a manual due to the fluctuation in rpms at idle. But The bucking does not quite seem to be from the cam's rpm jumping. I notice a "chattering" noise coming from somewhere between the input shaft and the tail shaft when it bucks. It feels as if there is some slack in the drive line.. Any ideas? should i just not worry about it until it breaks "god forbid if it does", or should I go ahead and get it looked at?
would it help pinpoint the problem if I disconnected the front U-joint from the drive shaft and try to twist slip spline while in gear with engine off (obviously)

Sorry for the Novel i wrote above haha, but any help is greatly appreciated.

Martin, if you could chime in and give me your thoughts on this that would be great.

Have a good day

 

I think what you are experiencing is normal during the break in period.

The chattering off idle at least for sure is normal until it breaks in. Try giving it slightly more rpm off idle when starting from a dead stop and it should help alleviate that noise.

Even with a level 2 and especially a level 3 or higher chattering comes with the territory of an aftermarket performance clutch. Letting off the clutch faster with a more authoritative release will stop this from happening.

Glad to hear you're enjoying the pedal feel now and that you were happy with your experience with Tick Performance! Feedback good or bad is always appreciated.

I myself after feeling several different cars around the shops pedal and release feel prefer a lower release point and a stiffer pedal feel when driving a performance oriented car. I much prefer the feedback an aftermarket clutch like a Spec or Level 2 and up Monster gives the user because of the shorter pedal travel and stiffer pedal feel. I hate having a high release point and a lot of travel as it just isn't what I look for in a performance set-up.

Again very glad you were happy with your experience and that you feel it was money well spent!

 

Whatever you do stay away from spec, im having major issues from the one i just put it,for sure go with monster,they come complete with flywheel and all that,and i would for sure upgrade the slave while your at it

 

More transmission problems. Very bad bucking while cruising and idling. The transmission shakes violently when taking off. It stakes insanely when reversing.
*sigh*, any help would be great.
I am nearly certain it is a clutch problem. I dropped another $90 on a new trans mount. no difference.

Do not know if it is the clutch itself or the installer, who swears it was installed correctly. I drove by the shop and confronted him about the shaking and vibrations. The owner stated that it came in an "un-marked box with no information what-so-ever. No brand name or any sort of documents".

I cannot afford this dam car, and have an ever bigger problem when it is in the shop and I am left bumming rides for 15 miles a day.....

someone, help me please.
Tick? what are you guys thoughts on this?

 

I'm not totally sure whats causing the cruising bucking and idle issue. But when taking off, the vibration is def clutch chatter. High performance clutches dont like to be slipped like stock ones do. So you must change your drive style for a quicker release. Instead out easily letting out the clutch and applying throttle. Blip the throttle and let out the clutch quicker as this will allow for less slippage....

However for now you need to get the "glaze" that has built up on the disc off. To do this go beat the **** out of the car. Do a couple wot pulls etc. This will take it off, after that the cars should drive much better. when this is done revise your driving style and I'm willing to bet the clutch will be just fine.

if you want call steve at monster he'd be more than happy to gover all this with you.