Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

Did it buck and surge before the cam install?

jmd

iTrader: (4)

You're jumping acrost two threads.

Along the lines of what I said in your other thread, can Monster confirm the hub of your new clutch as solid or sprung?

99peweterls1

iTrader: (1)

Another f-body on the bayou welcome brother lol

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

If it is bucking and surging while the clutch is engaged at 40, 60 or 30 mph and your foot is not on the clutch or attempting to disengage or re-engage then it has nothing to do with the clutch/trans and is in the tune.

When the clutch is engaged it's not doing anything other than creating a coupling between the flywheel and your input shaft of your transmission. I spoke with Jonathan about this and showed him this thread and allowed him to read your posts and we both think it isn't in the trans, but in the tune.

I drove a 2010 SS 5th gen we have at the shop with a 416 stroker in it before Jonathan had fully tuned it and it jumped and bucked all over the place and felt exactly like you're saying that it had slack in the driveline then it would tighten back up then slack then tighten back up as it was jerking forwards and backwards during the bucking/surging.

Now that Jonathan has the drivability nailed down in it from adjusting the electronic throttle scalar, timing and throttle follower it drives like a dream and only has the faintest hint of it at idle in the parking lot in first or second, but cruising around you don't even notice it now.

blacknyellow

iTrader: (3)

Okay, well I am truly lost at this point, and screwed. It did not buck and surge before the clutch swap, or before the cam swap. I had the cam in it and had it tuned and after the tune with the stock clutch it drove perfectly until the clutch started slipping. But drive-ability wise, it was perfect.
After the clutch install, it seemed OK at first with a little chatter when engaging, but now, the chatter has gone and the shaking bucking, vibrating, and noise from the transmission has started. I just want to get this **** right.
My main concern right now is the transmission shaking it's *** off when taking off and even worse when reversing. The god awful vibrations need to go too. I cannot even fully engage the clutch when reversing, the more I let it out the more the trans shakes. I literally feel like the transmission is going to just fall out of my car when I engage the clutch.

The last thing that I need is to pay for another tune, another clutch, or another clutch install right now.

99peweterls1

iTrader: (1)

Which trans mount did you use? Do you have a Wideband in the car? Would you be able to take a video I it doing this?

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

I will show your most current response to Jonathan and see what he thinks.

blacknyellow

iTrader: (3)

Rubber oem trans mount, no wideband, and i can try on a video.
OK Martin, thanks

blacknyellow

iTrader: (3)

Something I may add. The bucking seems to be worse at times and almost non-existent at other times, however, the shaking is still present all of the time.

I feel like there is something off, just simply "off" may it be my tuning, my clutch alignment or balance, or even just something as simply as a bad motor mount. I do not know.

Martin, see if this helps you and your guys any at figuring out my problem.
I appreciate your time, along with everyone else posting.

blacknyellow

iTrader: (3)

Okay, well the annoying vibration I was getting is now gone, exhaust pipe was contacting my UMI tunnel brace.
The vibration being gone makes it alot more calm to drive.
My main concern right now still is the transmission shaking when reversing and when taking off calmly.
What can cause the shaking?

The bucking, well, I can deal with that for now.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

If the car is bucking while you're driving that is the tune or something related with the cam install, the clutch isn't going to cause the car to buck during cruising.

I'm questioning the install on this, a Level 2 is a very, very smooth performing clutch. It's a full face material that doesn't chatter when the install is done correctly. ALL of my clutches come in boxes clearly marked Monster with complete install instructions, a packing slip, and stickers.

ALL Monsters use dampened hubs.

I'd take the car to another shop and get the transmission out. I would have them look over the entire setup to make sure that the install was done properly. The shaking you're feeling when you engage the clutch to move the car is known as chatter, that clutch should not chatter.

As far as the tuning being off, I'd take a look at the MAP to make sure it wasn't pulled out during the clutch install and make sure the MAF is plugged in and the hose that connects to the MAF isn't pulled off or tore. Any air coming in after the MAF is going to screw with the tune.

Good news is that if for some reason it's something to do with my clutch we'll warranty it, but based on your description of things I've got a feeling it's something entirely different but I could be wrong.

Keep me in the loop as things progress, I'll help all I can to make sure you're happy with our product.

99peweterls1

iTrader: (1)

That's customer service ^^

blacknyellow

iTrader: (3)

First of all, Steve I appreciate you coming in and and taking the time to help me figure this mess out. You question the installer of this clutch, and I do not blame you. I regret taking it to this shop. After the job was dont I learned that they do not warranty their work to any extent and I feel like they lied to be about the clutch being in an unmarked box and having no documents whatsoever.
I got in a fairly heated argument with the owner of "R&M Transmission" today about the install. Before this argument, he swore that the clutch was installed "just right", and that there is no reason it should be doing anything abnormal. He then went on to describe how I purchased a "off brand clutch in poor packaging that he has never seen in his XX amount of years doing transmission work" as if he was blaming the clutch itself for my troubles and that there was no chance he could have done something wrong. That is a real shitty way to run a business.
Whatever! I don't want to mess with that scumbag anymore..

I could take it to another shop and get it just right I would, but my budget does not quite allow for that right now. I was not even intending on having to do a clutch swap initially, much less twice.

So this MAP and MAF you speak of, are you talking about the mass air flow sensor on the intake?

Again, I appreciate you standing behind your product and the good customer service.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

If I had a dollar for everytime people told me they've been doing things for xx years just to find out they did in fact make a mistake I'd retire. People hate being wrong and techs/shops hate being questioned, unfortunately that is part of the aftermarket parts game we play everyday.

I see you're in LA, if you can find a way to make a road trip to us we'll fix it for free. I hate seeing people get pushed around, it pisses me off a bit.

Otherwise, yes the MAF is the mass airflow sensor and the MAP is the manifold absolute pressure sensor. Every once in a while they become unplugged or things occur when you drop the transmission and don't pay attention. Double check that and let me know.

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

Amazing, that is how every business should be run.

Remember that lady Steve? LOL