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Bleeding a Tick Master Properly

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Old 01-28-2013, 08:01 PM   #21
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Master bled tonight...seems to be better, was able to grab third a few times. I'll find out tomorrow night.

One question though on adjustment - there is the part that clips on to the pedal, a rod, then a nut - for adjustment/to secure it, should I be turning the piece that attaches to the clutch pedal or the metal rod? The clip on the pedal is a bitch to get on/off...
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:31 PM   #22
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Quote:
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Master bled tonight...seems to be better, was able to grab third a few times. I'll find out tomorrow night.

One question though on adjustment - there is the part that clips on to the pedal, a rod, then a nut - for adjustment/to secure it, should I be turning the piece that attaches to the clutch pedal or the metal rod? The clip on the pedal is a bitch to get on/off...
You really should adjust both to where they are nearly within the same adjustment range. The metal rod end that goes into the master adjusts and the heim joint end also adjusts. Turn both equally to get your adjustment.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:19 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_whigham View Post
True, true, and TRUE!!

I can't stress enough how important it really is to strictly bleed that inch of "moosh" you get. It makes a WORLD of difference.
Thanks for the info, gunna go try to get that little moosh out this week!
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:49 AM   #24
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Thank Martin, LOL. He's the one that set me straight in the beginning. Awesome help from a super busy guy!!
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Old 06-08-2013, 10:52 AM   #25
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Need to ask a question here - installed Tick master empty (tight fit and didn't want reservoir and line flopping around so I left the cup off for install) and now ready to deal with the fluid and bleeding. What is the best way to fill the master? I have the line to the slave disconnected. Do I have someone press the pedal and I push in the check valve from underneath the car - and keep adding fluid to the reservoir? Right now everything is connected with no firmness to the pedal at all and fluid in the reservoir - which may or may not be slowly gravity bleeding down into the master - have to go check the level.
Thanks
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Old 06-08-2013, 06:27 PM   #26
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so here's what I did - in case it can help somebody. Installed Tick master empty - filled up reservoir and had no pedal (obviously). Since nobody was around to help me, I used my mityvac - pulled all the air out that way until I had rock hard pedal - from there I followed Martin's master and slave bleeding suggestions - as well as Dr W's for the last inch of squish. Car is awesome again. clutch pedal is short and firm and in my test drive no sticking pedal. In my brief experience with the Tick master - I love it - definitely worth the cabbage.
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Old 07-07-2013, 02:59 PM   #27
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I'm having issues

Installed dry

First we used a mitivac that usses air compressor to create vacuum. Hooked it up to the speedbleeder and let It suck air and fluid out. The bubbles never stopped and we went thru a whole big bottle of brake fluid. We never let the reservoir o empty.

Still no pedal

Then we tried the old fashion way of pumping the pedal until its hard and then crack the bleeder. But the pedal NEVER got hard. No preassure.

So then we followed this. Unhooked the master from thr slave, made sure reservoir was full and continued to pump. STILL no pressure. The fluid never went down on the reservoir even when I press the check valve.

HELP!!!!
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Old 07-07-2013, 03:41 PM   #28
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when you say no pressure;are you talking sloppy loose?
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Old 07-07-2013, 03:45 PM   #29
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I guess what im getting too is if you cant get the check valve depressed try sticking it back in are start pumping again. Ive never had a problem like this with mine. But some people have mentioned how long it took them unitl it was fully bled. Wish I had an exact answer for you
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:23 PM   #30
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No resistance on the pedal. Sticks to the floor right away
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:23 PM   #31
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Yes The check valve is able to get pressed
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:26 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02ls1gun View Post
I guess what im getting too is if you cant get the check valve depressed try sticking it back in are start pumping again. Ive never had a problem like this with mine. But some people have mentioned how long it took them unitl it was fully bled. Wish I had an exact answer for you
It doesn't build up any resistance as u pump the pedal like its suppose to.

I've instaled and replaced many stock mc without issues.
I'm stumped on this one
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:58 AM   #33
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Anyone??
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Old 07-08-2013, 02:46 PM   #34
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If I'm reading this right, when trying to gravity bleed JUST the master cyl, you arent getting the reservoir to drain at all? If you cant get pressure in the pedal when bleeding the master only (unhooked from the slave), and the reservoir isnt draining, it sounds like something is bad in the master itself. When I first started bleeding the master only after depressing the pedal and closing the check valve I think I had to pull the pedal up by hand the first time to get it pulling fluid from the res, but if yours isnt pulling any fluid you may have a defective unit.

In this is the case your best bet is to call Tick Performance directly and talk to Martin to Jonathan 336.719.0599
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Old 07-10-2013, 05:50 PM   #35
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Ok I took it out and bench bled it. Reinstalled it and started pumping. I have a speed bleeder from tick and a tex oz700 fwiw


With the clutch pedal the same height as the brake pedal. I can feel preasure at the bottom. With the clutch pedal significantly higher than the brake pedal. I can feel more pedal preasure. But the pedal still has a lor of play.
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Old 07-10-2013, 07:38 PM   #36
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http://static.photobucket.com/player...ps5f05af8f.mp4

This is the play I'm talking about
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Old 07-11-2013, 05:40 PM   #37
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Try just barely cracking the speed bleeder and pumping the clutch pedal a few times while making sure the fluid level in the reservoir stays above the low level line preventing air from being introduced into the system.

This should get the play out of your pedal.

The reason the pedal is firmer when in a higher position is because you're moving more fluid volume. Opposite for a lower pedal position.

FWIW if you have our speed bleeder you don't have to open and close it every time you pump the pedal. It's designed with a check valve at the end of it so that you can barely crack it, and leave it open while pumping the pedal till you get solid pedal pressure.

Last edited by [email protected]; 07-11-2013 at 05:46 PM.
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Old 07-15-2013, 02:20 AM   #38
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I tried that. No go. I pulled it and put my stocm cmc on and bled it. Absolutely no issues and was able to drive the car today.

Pm sent martin
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Old 12-23-2013, 06:53 PM   #39
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Is it necessary to bleed the slave if its never removed? First time doing this, I'll more than likely install it dry and then do the bleeding procedures described in the previous post.
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Old 05-12-2014, 09:56 PM   #40
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I've tried bleeding using the procedure here, and I've tried power bleeding(pressure). No matter what from the day I put this on, my pedal will fall to the floor randomly. Park the car over night, come out and the pedal is sitting on the floor. Driving, go for the clutch and it's resting on the floor. As soon as I pull it back up I get my clutch back, but then it will randomly go to the floor again. There is no fluid being lost, and the slave cylinder only has 20k miles on it. Any thoughts?
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