Bleeding a Tick Master Properly
Master bled tonight...seems to be better, was able to grab third a few times. I'll find out tomorrow night.
One question though on adjustment - there is the part that clips on to the pedal, a rod, then a nut - for adjustment/to secure it, should I be turning the piece that attaches to the clutch pedal or the metal rod? The clip on the pedal is a bitch to get on/off...
One question though on adjustment - there is the part that clips on to the pedal, a rod, then a nut - for adjustment/to secure it, should I be turning the piece that attaches to the clutch pedal or the metal rod? The clip on the pedal is a bitch to get on/off...
Master bled tonight...seems to be better, was able to grab third a few times. I'll find out tomorrow night.
One question though on adjustment - there is the part that clips on to the pedal, a rod, then a nut - for adjustment/to secure it, should I be turning the piece that attaches to the clutch pedal or the metal rod? The clip on the pedal is a bitch to get on/off...
One question though on adjustment - there is the part that clips on to the pedal, a rod, then a nut - for adjustment/to secure it, should I be turning the piece that attaches to the clutch pedal or the metal rod? The clip on the pedal is a bitch to get on/off...
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 68
Likes: 2
From: Hillsborough, NJ
Need to ask a question here - installed Tick master empty (tight fit and didn't want reservoir and line flopping around so I left the cup off for install) and now ready to deal with the fluid and bleeding. What is the best way to fill the master? I have the line to the slave disconnected. Do I have someone press the pedal and I push in the check valve from underneath the car - and keep adding fluid to the reservoir? Right now everything is connected with no firmness to the pedal at all and fluid in the reservoir - which may or may not be slowly gravity bleeding down into the master - have to go check the level.
Thanks
Thanks
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 68
Likes: 2
From: Hillsborough, NJ
so here's what I did - in case it can help somebody. Installed Tick master empty - filled up reservoir and had no pedal (obviously). Since nobody was around to help me, I used my mityvac - pulled all the air out that way until I had rock hard pedal - from there I followed Martin's master and slave bleeding suggestions - as well as Dr W's for the last inch of squish. Car is awesome again. clutch pedal is short and firm and in my test drive no sticking pedal. In my brief experience with the Tick master - I love it - definitely worth the cabbage.
I'm having issues
Installed dry
First we used a mitivac that usses air compressor to create vacuum. Hooked it up to the speedbleeder and let It suck air and fluid out. The bubbles never stopped and we went thru a whole big bottle of brake fluid. We never let the reservoir o empty.
Still no pedal
Then we tried the old fashion way of pumping the pedal until its hard and then crack the bleeder. But the pedal NEVER got hard. No preassure.
So then we followed this. Unhooked the master from thr slave, made sure reservoir was full and continued to pump. STILL no pressure. The fluid never went down on the reservoir even when I press the check valve.
HELP!!!!
Installed dry
First we used a mitivac that usses air compressor to create vacuum. Hooked it up to the speedbleeder and let It suck air and fluid out. The bubbles never stopped and we went thru a whole big bottle of brake fluid. We never let the reservoir o empty.
Still no pedal
Then we tried the old fashion way of pumping the pedal until its hard and then crack the bleeder. But the pedal NEVER got hard. No preassure.
So then we followed this. Unhooked the master from thr slave, made sure reservoir was full and continued to pump. STILL no pressure. The fluid never went down on the reservoir even when I press the check valve.
HELP!!!!
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On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: Dayton, TX
I guess what im getting too is if you cant get the check valve depressed try sticking it back in are start pumping again. Ive never had a problem like this with mine. But some people have mentioned how long it took them unitl it was fully bled. Wish I had an exact answer for you
I guess what im getting too is if you cant get the check valve depressed try sticking it back in are start pumping again. Ive never had a problem like this with mine. But some people have mentioned how long it took them unitl it was fully bled. Wish I had an exact answer for you
I've instaled and replaced many stock mc without issues.
I'm stumped on this one
If I'm reading this right, when trying to gravity bleed JUST the master cyl, you arent getting the reservoir to drain at all? If you cant get pressure in the pedal when bleeding the master only (unhooked from the slave), and the reservoir isnt draining, it sounds like something is bad in the master itself. When I first started bleeding the master only after depressing the pedal and closing the check valve I think I had to pull the pedal up by hand the first time to get it pulling fluid from the res, but if yours isnt pulling any fluid you may have a defective unit.
In this is the case your best bet is to call Tick Performance directly and talk to Martin to Jonathan 336.719.0599
In this is the case your best bet is to call Tick Performance directly and talk to Martin to Jonathan 336.719.0599
Ok I took it out and bench bled it. Reinstalled it and started pumping. I have a speed bleeder from tick and a tex oz700 fwiw
With the clutch pedal the same height as the brake pedal. I can feel preasure at the bottom. With the clutch pedal significantly higher than the brake pedal. I can feel more pedal preasure. But the pedal still has a lor of play.
With the clutch pedal the same height as the brake pedal. I can feel preasure at the bottom. With the clutch pedal significantly higher than the brake pedal. I can feel more pedal preasure. But the pedal still has a lor of play.
Try just barely cracking the speed bleeder and pumping the clutch pedal a few times while making sure the fluid level in the reservoir stays above the low level line preventing air from being introduced into the system.
This should get the play out of your pedal.
The reason the pedal is firmer when in a higher position is because you're moving more fluid volume. Opposite for a lower pedal position.
FWIW if you have our speed bleeder you don't have to open and close it every time you pump the pedal. It's designed with a check valve at the end of it so that you can barely crack it, and leave it open while pumping the pedal till you get solid pedal pressure.
This should get the play out of your pedal.
The reason the pedal is firmer when in a higher position is because you're moving more fluid volume. Opposite for a lower pedal position.
FWIW if you have our speed bleeder you don't have to open and close it every time you pump the pedal. It's designed with a check valve at the end of it so that you can barely crack it, and leave it open while pumping the pedal till you get solid pedal pressure.
Last edited by Sales@Tick; Jul 11, 2013 at 05:46 PM.
Is it necessary to bleed the slave if its never removed? First time doing this, I'll more than likely install it dry and then do the bleeding procedures described in the previous post.
I've tried bleeding using the procedure here, and I've tried power bleeding(pressure). No matter what from the day I put this on, my pedal will fall to the floor randomly. Park the car over night, come out and the pedal is sitting on the floor. Driving, go for the clutch and it's resting on the floor. As soon as I pull it back up I get my clutch back, but then it will randomly go to the floor again. There is no fluid being lost, and the slave cylinder only has 20k miles on it. Any thoughts?