Bleeding a Tick Master Properly
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
Im having some issues with my tick master. The first 3/4 inch of pedal is completely dead. nothing there. i have had to bring my clutch pedal an inch or so above the brake pedal because i was having disengagement issues. It also feels like after long drives the engagement point gets closer and closer to the fire wall. Or maybe im just going crazy.
My friend has the exact same setup as me ( master, slave, clutch, etc.) and i got to sit in it and try it this weekend. its rock hard, a nice short throw and there is no play at all. Mine feels like **** compared to his but if i didnt have his to compare with i would say mine doesn't feel bad at all.
Will this method help me? is there air in my system or is it something more serious?
My friend has the exact same setup as me ( master, slave, clutch, etc.) and i got to sit in it and try it this weekend. its rock hard, a nice short throw and there is no play at all. Mine feels like **** compared to his but if i didnt have his to compare with i would say mine doesn't feel bad at all.
Will this method help me? is there air in my system or is it something more serious?
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
well i gave this a go for about 2 hours today but seen no improvement. it seemed i was only making things worse. So i decided to pull the master out and inspect it. it sounded like it was letting in air somewhere and sure enough it was. About 700miles on it so im just assuming i got a dud one, no biggy. I set it on the bench and started pumping it and could see and hear tiny little air bubbles forming in the masters little cup thing.
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
So I am not sure if this is related but I have looked and looked. I have bled numerous times and even had some of the local gurus come around and tinker. Used the Mityvac method and bled as such. All the bleeding I have done still leaves me still getting a very partial engagement on the clutch. For example going into first gear it grabs the clutch ever so slightly and tries to roll the car. Would that be the total distance of the slave as an issue like a shim? or would that be the slave not being pushed far enough? Would air cause the slave not to press hard or far enough?
Registered User
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Hey all, having the same issue as above.
I've tried this bleeding method and my clutch still doesn't disengage fully, issue actually seems worse than before, still have a half inch of spongy pedal and it makes a slight squirting noise when you cycle the spongy part. I'm out of ideas, ready to give up and sell the car honestly.
Thought this tick master was going to be the bees knees, but so far it's taken about 7 hours of my life and i can't drive my z06 anymore.
I've tried this bleeding method and my clutch still doesn't disengage fully, issue actually seems worse than before, still have a half inch of spongy pedal and it makes a slight squirting noise when you cycle the spongy part. I'm out of ideas, ready to give up and sell the car honestly.
Thought this tick master was going to be the bees knees, but so far it's taken about 7 hours of my life and i can't drive my z06 anymore.
Last edited by Azriel_Strife; May 29, 2019 at 12:52 AM.
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: NWI
Literally bumping this up cause I'm pretty pissed right now, that once again this procedure is rediculous. The master was never drained, I had un hooked it from the slave, it sat for a month while I rebuilt the trans, reconnected and several attempts to bleed and nothing but good bubble free fluid and zero from the pedal.
The. ****.
The. ****.
Not sure if this will work or not but it's worth a shot. Jack the back of the car high in the air. Loosen the cap on the reservoir and pump the pedal 35 times or so. You might be able to burp out your bubble.
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