School me on buying used clutches.
09-15-2012, 03:03 PM
#1
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School me on buying used clutches. I killed my LS1 and am wokring on that now
HERE is that thread
I'm having my dad's buddy look through the tranny. I need a new pilot shaft because of some sort of wear. I also need a clutch because mine is toast. I'm on a budget because I blew my car at the most inopportune moment that I could this year. Right as I Pay and start school. Anyway I'm looking at a used SPEC 3+
with Pressure plate and flywheel. It has 12K Miles. Managed to get him down to 225. I've never had a new clutch before. This is my first manual car. What do you all think? Sounds good to me but that is why I'm asking y'all. Thanks!
HERE is that thread
I'm having my dad's buddy look through the tranny. I need a new pilot shaft because of some sort of wear. I also need a clutch because mine is toast. I'm on a budget because I blew my car at the most inopportune moment that I could this year. Right as I Pay and start school. Anyway I'm looking at a used SPEC 3+
with Pressure plate and flywheel. It has 12K Miles. Managed to get him down to 225. I've never had a new clutch before. This is my first manual car. What do you all think? Sounds good to me but that is why I'm asking y'all. Thanks!
09-15-2012, 03:40 PM
#2
You can call spec and ask for the thickness spec on a new disc and then measure this one with a dial caliper to compare as well as check the flywheel for hot spots, but you wont be able to take into account the stiffness of the pressure plate fingers to see if theyre still intact or if the flywheel is warped. I know it's more money and school is expensive (I'm up in orlando at UCF atm) but the clutch and hydraulics is not an area you can skimp on.
I'd recommend at least an ls7 clutch but preferably a monster stage 1/2 colorado speed has them now for around 500-550 shipped, and also MAKE SURE to get a new slave, it should always be replaced. The last thing you want is to put everything back together only to pull it back apart for clutch issues. Too bad your a little short on cash man a cam and bolt ons ould have looked good in that t/a haah
I'd recommend at least an ls7 clutch but preferably a monster stage 1/2 colorado speed has them now for around 500-550 shipped, and also MAKE SURE to get a new slave, it should always be replaced. The last thing you want is to put everything back together only to pull it back apart for clutch issues. Too bad your a little short on cash man a cam and bolt ons ould have looked good in that t/a haah
09-15-2012, 04:17 PM
#3
Imo just buy a new one, i bought a used clutch before and it wasnt that long before i bought a new one, it was worth it for me because i got a light weight fly wheel,but imo stay with new,spec is cheap and pretty good, i put a stage 3 in mine and love it
10-13-2012, 05:38 PM
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Dad snagged that 3+ before I bought a new one.
Looks like I'll be using it. Flywheel looks good, Pressure plate looks like brand new.
I'm going to measure the clutch and see what the difference is when I get a chance.
Looks like I'll be using it. Flywheel looks good, Pressure plate looks like brand new.
I'm going to measure the clutch and see what the difference is when I get a chance.
10-15-2012, 11:48 AM
#6
I bought a used Tex with about 75 passes on it. I installed it in my H/C car, along with a 9" and slicks. I've put another 40-50 passes on it and it's still holding up great. All new hydraulics were installed along with a Tick master and spew bleeder.
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10-15-2012, 06:44 PM
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I planned for TDP but I need the car back on the road.
Once I get out of this hole, I'll put in a new clutch and a rear.
I did get a new slave cylinder. Trying to swing a tick master since TDP hasn't machined one yet.
10-16-2012, 09:57 AM
#10
Blasko, I responded to your PM; let me know if you have other questions.
therobman...Stage 3+ offers great drivability and high capacity which is a combination that you don't typically find with single-disc clutches. I am not sure what you specific complaint is with the 3+ but there are tons of forum members that swear by this kit. It is a fantastic setup!
therobman...Stage 3+ offers great drivability and high capacity which is a combination that you don't typically find with single-disc clutches. I am not sure what you specific complaint is with the 3+ but there are tons of forum members that swear by this kit. It is a fantastic setup!
10-16-2012, 10:52 AM
#12
Autogeek...so you don't like a product yet based on your post you seem to have never used one? We have sold 30K+ kits for the LS based applications over the years. If you want to give one a try let me know and I will be happy to work with you!
11-28-2012, 12:18 AM
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She's Alive. Got about 120 Miles on her. Shifting Great. No chatter as of yet, Can really tell the difference with that pressure plate and friction material vs stock.
12-05-2012, 04:55 PM
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I do have a few questions after a bit of driving and feeling the car out.
Keep in mind the last time I drove any manual trans vehicles was this car when it blew. Which was a few months ago.
If I try to take off from a dead stop and drive like I used to (stock) , it will kind of shutter. Pretty violently. It feels to me like this is the clutch bouncing off of the flywheel as it spins. I resurfaced the flywheel first, so I know it is smooth. More RPM during engagement fixes this up but I just want to make sure that I'm not going to hurt anything/should be worried. I feel like I have to rev way too high to make it clean, but Its probably just in my head because I haven't driven her in so long and the LS1/T56 is nothing like L83/Automatic 700R, and this is my first clutch changing experience.
It also does that sometimes when say, Reversing out of a parking spot. Like when you are trying to move but not necessarily have to fully engage the clutch to move back far enough.. Anywho, when your moving back out of say the parking spot and I press the clutch pedal to disengage and prepare to shift to 1st, it will sometimes give that violent shutter on its way off the flywheel.
Is this just the nature of High Performance clutches?
Thanks for you're time guys.
Keep in mind the last time I drove any manual trans vehicles was this car when it blew. Which was a few months ago.
If I try to take off from a dead stop and drive like I used to (stock) , it will kind of shutter. Pretty violently. It feels to me like this is the clutch bouncing off of the flywheel as it spins. I resurfaced the flywheel first, so I know it is smooth. More RPM during engagement fixes this up but I just want to make sure that I'm not going to hurt anything/should be worried. I feel like I have to rev way too high to make it clean, but Its probably just in my head because I haven't driven her in so long and the LS1/T56 is nothing like L83/Automatic 700R, and this is my first clutch changing experience.
It also does that sometimes when say, Reversing out of a parking spot. Like when you are trying to move but not necessarily have to fully engage the clutch to move back far enough.. Anywho, when your moving back out of say the parking spot and I press the clutch pedal to disengage and prepare to shift to 1st, it will sometimes give that violent shutter on its way off the flywheel.
Is this just the nature of High Performance clutches?
Thanks for you're time guys.
Last edited by Blasko; 12-05-2012 at 05:03 PM.
12-06-2012, 12:08 PM
#19
You seem to be describing chatter which can occur for a number of reasons. The 3+, which uses a full-faced disc is less prone to this than a puck-type disc. Because you are using this with a different/resurfaced flywheel you will effectively need to go through the break-in process again. This will seat the disc to the corresponding flywheel and pressure-plate surface. Put some miles on it and let me know if you have other questions.
