High clutch grab
09-25-2012, 09:09 PM
#1
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High clutch grab Ok, I've been dealing with this problem for a while now.
Here's what I have:
Advance auto flywheel (supposedly new and not remanned)
Comp Clutch stage 2 kit
New pilot bushing (input shaft retipped by texas drivetrain performance)
Brand new master/slave (modded to adjustable)
I originally modded my master cylinder to be adjustable because I was experiencing a high clutch grab with a new clutch kit, master and slave cylinder, flywheel. I couldn't change the engagement point enough (bench bled the master and slave). I sent the clutch in to competition clutch to be inspected and everything checked out fine... I was experiencing notchy shifting, which ended up being related to mobil 1 atf. Now my only problem is a high clutch engagement.
Anyone have any ideas?
Here's what I have:
Advance auto flywheel (supposedly new and not remanned)
Comp Clutch stage 2 kit
New pilot bushing (input shaft retipped by texas drivetrain performance)
Brand new master/slave (modded to adjustable)
I originally modded my master cylinder to be adjustable because I was experiencing a high clutch grab with a new clutch kit, master and slave cylinder, flywheel. I couldn't change the engagement point enough (bench bled the master and slave). I sent the clutch in to competition clutch to be inspected and everything checked out fine... I was experiencing notchy shifting, which ended up being related to mobil 1 atf. Now my only problem is a high clutch engagement.
Anyone have any ideas?
09-26-2012, 11:36 AM
#2
Are you sure you don't have a shim installed behind the slave? This would be worth checking because it would change the depth of the bearing and thus cause higher engagement.
09-26-2012, 11:58 AM
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Yeah I'm positive. I forgot to mention this is an LT1 clutch setup. I don't know if they make shims for them, but I am sure I do not have one behind my slave cylinder.
09-26-2012, 02:25 PM
#4
That changes things...and provides insight into your issue. I am curious about the thickness of the flywheel you have and also interested in the total stack height of the unit. If the flywheel is too thin is would cause the diaphragm fingers to be under constant tension (they would be pulled constantly) which would raise the engagement point and lead to faster wear. When you sent the clutch to your provider did you send the flywheel too? I assume that you didn't but its worth asking. Either way, you may benefit from pulling the assembly and taking some measurements.
09-26-2012, 08:56 PM
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I didn't send the flywheel in unfortunately. I'd hate to have to pull my clutch again, but it seems as if I'm going to have to. I regret buying this clutch and haven't even put 5k miles on it. I reckon it could be a flywheel issue as well considering I bought one from advance auto...
09-28-2012, 12:26 PM
#6
At this point anything is possible. Keep me posted and let me know when you pull the parts and I will be happy to continue assisting you with trouble shooting. Then, if you need another clutch or clutch I can help you with that too! Thanks,
10-08-2012, 10:05 AM
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I haven't had the time to pull the clutch (and probably wont for a little while). I did notice one thing today though...
When in neutral, if I push the clutch in and release it slowly, I can hear the clutch grabbing about halfway through letting the clutch out. But when in gear, the car doesn't actually start to move (clutch grabbing) until its about 3/4 of the way out? Is this normal or should I proceed to pulling the clutch?
When in neutral, if I push the clutch in and release it slowly, I can hear the clutch grabbing about halfway through letting the clutch out. But when in gear, the car doesn't actually start to move (clutch grabbing) until its about 3/4 of the way out? Is this normal or should I proceed to pulling the clutch?
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10-09-2012, 11:00 AM
#8
You will have a window of engagement between which the clutch begins to actually apply clamp and where it is fully engaged. Releasing the pedal slowly allows you to be more aware of this.
