Tips and tricks to changing master cylinder
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 544
Likes: 0
From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Tips and tricks to changing master cylinder I'm going to change my master in my driveway tomorrow and would like some more tips and tricks to make it smoother. I'm not a noob to working on my car but i'm no expert by any mean. I will have an extra pair of hands here to help me. Should i follow the drill mod directions?
Listen to ^^this^^ guy. He's been there, done that, bought the T-Shirt, worn it out, and now uses it as a shop rag. If you're sticking with a stock master you won't find better advice.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 544
Likes: 0
From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Well i got it in, that was the hardest part, took about 3 hours and a lot of frustration but finally got it in. The easiest part was actually getting it out. Now time to bleed it, just have to wait for someone to come to my house so they can step on the clutch pedal. Oh, how do you bleed the clutch again?
There are lots of diffrent ways to bleed it. The way I've done it that has always worked great for me is as follows...
Take the cap off the master cylinder reservior and fill it up almost to the very top. Push the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it there. Crack the bleeder for a second or two then tighten it. Pull the clutch pedal off the floor. When you do this the fluid from the master cylinder reservior will get sucked down into the system. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservior. You don't want it to get empty because it will end up sucking in air if it runs out of fluid to suck down into the system. From what I remember, I think I could push the pedal down, crack the bleeder, tighten the bleeder, pull the clutch pedal off the floor, and repeat the whole process about 4 times before needing to go over and top off the reservior again with fluid. I just keep doing the process over and over again until the clutch pedal starts coming back to life and starts to act normal again. After that I just do the process about 3-5 more times just for good measure to get any bubbles out of the system. Before putting the cap on the reservior I make sure to get the fluid in there to the appropriate marked level. You'll want to put something under the car to catch all the fluid that is bled through the system and sent out the bleeder.
Take the cap off the master cylinder reservior and fill it up almost to the very top. Push the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it there. Crack the bleeder for a second or two then tighten it. Pull the clutch pedal off the floor. When you do this the fluid from the master cylinder reservior will get sucked down into the system. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservior. You don't want it to get empty because it will end up sucking in air if it runs out of fluid to suck down into the system. From what I remember, I think I could push the pedal down, crack the bleeder, tighten the bleeder, pull the clutch pedal off the floor, and repeat the whole process about 4 times before needing to go over and top off the reservior again with fluid. I just keep doing the process over and over again until the clutch pedal starts coming back to life and starts to act normal again. After that I just do the process about 3-5 more times just for good measure to get any bubbles out of the system. Before putting the cap on the reservior I make sure to get the fluid in there to the appropriate marked level. You'll want to put something under the car to catch all the fluid that is bled through the system and sent out the bleeder.
Do you still need the drill mod with a tick master?
