2002_TAWS6

just like the subject says..

im launching on 5000rpms on nitto DRs but im certainly not dumping the clutch - Im slipping it.

Is that ok? or is it going to f-ck up my clutch?

Damian

iTrader: (89)

You will not hurt that clutch.

C5 CU

I fried two Spec 3s with minimal miles on them...some hold up forever and some have serious problems from the start...

antz01ta

iTrader: (3)

why would you do such a silly thing?

2002_TAWS6

trying to launch as fast as I can without spinning.

Cant dump the clutch or my stock rear end will go boom.

35th SS

iTrader: (2)

thats what I was going to say.better get a good rear first and then dump it with slicks.

antz01ta

iTrader: (3)

ok that clears that up, you def need another rear, but why an 8.8?

my 12 bolt takes 6000 rpm dumps on slicks sprayin a 150 out of the hole all day long.

2002_TAWS6

1) Cheaper. $1818 for complete rearend with eaton posis 31 splines..etc
2) Lighter than Moser. Only 15lbs heavier than stock.
3) Should not whine. No break in procedure required.
4) The $1818 setup has been perfectly fine on 600rwhp cars. (I would prolly do the DS the same time +$250 = $2065).

What could sound better?

Right now im just on "pause" status before purchasing a rearend and thats because I heard a "possible" rumor of a place that makes Ford 9" rearends for $700. I know! I had the same look on my face too. I should be able to know if thats true or not within the week. Supposedly the guy makes them as a side job. Ill find out the story..

Back to the post:

Ok let me get a couple of more answers on my earlier question.
Is it FINE to slip the clutch like that or not?

I had a friend that said its fine only for a couple of times before something happens. Does he know what he is talking about? Am I frying my clutch or hurting anything when I do so?

need more information. more feedback

antz01ta

iTrader: (3)

you are gonna burn your flywheel and pressure plate doing that.
i dont care what kind of clutch you have friction = heat = damage.

C5 CU

....if hydraulics aren't just right on and you slip the clutch there is a chance pressure plate and disc don't engage simultaneously and much more slipping occurs than planned...i.e. lots of heat and a fried Spec....first question that Spec ask when you call them with a clutch failure problem is "do you slip the clutch or dump" ...apparently they think slipping the clutch is the problem with many of their failures.

2002_TAWS6

thank you for the responses ... no more clutch slipping from now on..

I guess its time I got that damn rear end so I can dump the hell out of this clutch

MyLS1Hauls

iTrader: (2)

Launch at a lower rpm and let the clutch out harder. No need to slip at 5000rpm for a good ET without breaking the axle. Its a good way to glaze the disk. Just let the clutch out hard at 3k...I've run several 1.7 60s on the stock axle by soft dumping at 3500...but then again it did finally break. You just have to make sure the axle is loaded before you dump the clutch, so the freeplay doenst stack up and "slam" the axle.