4.8 vortec/t56
03-21-2013, 04:00 AM
#1
Staging Lane
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4.8 vortec/t56 Hey, I am planning a swap from my tired old lt1 in my 1995 z28 to a vortec 4.8. I am wondering how hard it is to mate the 4.8 to the t56. I will be converting it to a ls t56. Do I just need an ls1 flywheel and clutch then bolt it all up? anyone tried? Thanks for the help.
03-22-2013, 11:52 AM
#3
Just be aware that some of the truck crankshafts don't have a deep enuf hole/pocket where the pilot bearing is for the input shaft to enter. Some may bottom out. I struggled with mine for a couple hrs figuring out WTF was up and why it was binding.
So if the bellhousing doesn't sit flush when test fitting them together outside the car .... don't tighten the bolts down to force them together. You'll snap some of the ears off the back of the block if you do and ruin your motor.
I had to cut off about 1/8" or more from my input shaft with an air cutoff tool and then put the chamfer back on with a grinder carefully turning it. I put a yoke in the tailhousing and had a friend turn it while I put the 45* angle back on the input shaft. Went together easily after that.
Mine was an alum 5.3 with T56 Magnum.
You need an Fbody pilot bearing and NEW slave cylinder also.
So if the bellhousing doesn't sit flush when test fitting them together outside the car .... don't tighten the bolts down to force them together. You'll snap some of the ears off the back of the block if you do and ruin your motor.
I had to cut off about 1/8" or more from my input shaft with an air cutoff tool and then put the chamfer back on with a grinder carefully turning it. I put a yoke in the tailhousing and had a friend turn it while I put the 45* angle back on the input shaft. Went together easily after that.
Mine was an alum 5.3 with T56 Magnum.
You need an Fbody pilot bearing and NEW slave cylinder also.
Last edited by gnx7; 03-22-2013 at 12:05 PM.
03-27-2013, 02:39 AM
#4
Just be aware that some of the truck crankshafts don't have a deep enuf hole/pocket where the pilot bearing is for the input shaft to enter. Some may bottom out. I struggled with mine for a couple hrs figuring out WTF was up and why it was binding.
So if the bellhousing doesn't sit flush when test fitting them together outside the car .... don't tighten the bolts down to force them together. You'll snap some of the ears off the back of the block if you do and ruin your motor.
I had to cut off about 1/8" or more from my input shaft with an air cutoff tool and then put the chamfer back on with a grinder carefully turning it. I put a yoke in the tailhousing and had a friend turn it while I put the 45* angle back on the input shaft. Went together easily after that.
Mine was an alum 5.3 with T56 Magnum.
You need an Fbody pilot bearing and NEW slave cylinder also.
So if the bellhousing doesn't sit flush when test fitting them together outside the car .... don't tighten the bolts down to force them together. You'll snap some of the ears off the back of the block if you do and ruin your motor.
I had to cut off about 1/8" or more from my input shaft with an air cutoff tool and then put the chamfer back on with a grinder carefully turning it. I put a yoke in the tailhousing and had a friend turn it while I put the 45* angle back on the input shaft. Went together easily after that.
Mine was an alum 5.3 with T56 Magnum.
You need an Fbody pilot bearing and NEW slave cylinder also.
I'm planning on swapping my LT1 for an aluminum 5.3 and I will be keeping a T56 behind it
48, automatic, bolt, clutch, compatable, convert, engine, flywheel, hydrogen, ls, parts, performance, t56, transmission, transmissions, vortec, vortex
