Clutch Bleeding Hell
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
Clutch Bleeding Hell Guys, I'm in need of help after reading countless threads and trying every method mentioned. It's on my brothers '01 Z28 with new clutch, flywheel, master cylinder, and slave cylinder. The pedal never kicked back up by itself after opening the valve,molding the pedal down, and closing the valve. We had to pick up the clutch after every ate,pt of bleeding, and after pumping it a couple of times the pedal would get firmer and firmer. We used a mityvac, and even my Motive Products power bleeder. The car shifts perfectly fine right now, but I'm just worried because the clutch never kicked back up after bleeding it manually.
What do you guys think is the problem here? Any advice will help. Thank you.
What do you guys think is the problem here? Any advice will help. Thank you.
Did you bench bleed the new master? I installed a new master cylinder dry once upon a time, and never could get it to bleed correctly, so I had to pull it and bench bleed it first. Sounds like you got it working though, so as long as it shifts fine at high RPMs and does so consistently, I'm not sure I'd worry about it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
Did you bench bleed the new master? I installed a new master cylinder dry once upon a time, and never could get it to bleed correctly, so I had to pull it and bench bleed it first. Sounds like you got it working though, so as long as it shifts fine at high RPMs and does so consistently, I'm not sure I'd worry about it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
It returns normally now, but I'm worried because when we bleed it the old fashion way we get a strong stream of fluid, but when we close it the clutch stays down and we have to pick it up manually, and after pumping it a few times it gets firm.
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As long as you are not loosing pressure, or seeing the pedal stick during usage then you don't likely have any internal or external leaks. When bleeding the system, after opening and closing the bleeder, you will need to pull the pedal back up because there is no back pressure (you just evacuated the fluid) and vacuum is caused when you begin to pull the pedal back up (which is why there is some resistance). No worries...you seem to be all good.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
As long as you are not loosing pressure, or seeing the pedal stick during usage then you don't likely have any internal or external leaks. When bleeding the system, after opening and closing the bleeder, you will need to pull the pedal back up because there is no back pressure (you just evacuated the fluid) and vacuum is caused when you begin to pull the pedal back up (which is why there is some resistance). No worries...you seem to be all good.
. I'd really hate to have to pull back the tranny again and have to yank that thing out. I had a call recently from a customer that ended up having a leak from the bleeder valve, not around the threads but through the valve even when it tightened. Stranger things have happened! Keep us posted!
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
Well, my brother went ahead and installed a new clutch MC. I wasn't there for the instal, but I got a phone call from him telling me that now the clutch pedal was hard and the clutch WOULD NOT engage. Something really weird is going on here.
Let's make sure we are on the same page. Your brother says that the pedal is hard and it won't engage. Are you certain that he doesn't mean that it won't release. Will the pedal depress at all. Don't force it, just apply light even pressure. If not then there is an issue of fluid transfer between the master and slave cylinder. Make sure the line that connects the cylinders is connected fully.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
Let's make sure we are on the same page. Your brother says that the pedal is hard and it won't engage. Are you certain that he doesn't mean that it won't release. Will the pedal depress at all. Don't force it, just apply light even pressure. If not then there is an issue of fluid transfer between the master and slave cylinder. Make sure the line that connects the cylinders is connected fully.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
Well, I just got back from helping my brother with his car. We bleed it and, still, the pedal wouldn't kick up itself after closing the bleeder. The pedal is stiffer and everything, and the gears went in smoothly, and the car moves and everything. I'm still not happy because the pedal stayed on the floor after closing the valve, but we'll see tomorrow when my brother tries to drive it.
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2012
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So its not coming back up off the floor on its own when you close the bleeder? That sounds normal to me... there would be no pressure in the line to push the pedal back up. Every clutch i have ever bled i had to pull the clutch pedal up off the floor after opening and closing the bleeder. You may be worrying yourself over nothing. If the clutch disengages properly and you can shift through the gears as you should then i wouldn't worry about it
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
My brother drove the car home, and said that it shifted good, and felt great. We won't be able to find out if he's good under hard launches until after the break in period. Thank you all for the help. Hopefully we won't have any further problems and can have some fun this summer.
