T56 Mod for Speed Shifting?
T56 Mod for Speed Shifting? Does anyone have advice on the way to smooth the blocker ring and syncro engagement to facilitate faster shifting. I am trying to get research on that.
It's ready to go back together. I have the bronze syncro sliders, billet syncro keys for 3-4, and bronze isolator cup.
I would like to hear from someone who has done it.
It's ready to go back together. I have the bronze syncro sliders, billet syncro keys for 3-4, and bronze isolator cup.
I would like to hear from someone who has done it.
The one thing I recently learned is that the lighter the clutch disk, the faster you can shift. The old spec 3+ was 8# IIRC, the one I have now is 6# and shifting is much faster. Just a thought.
I dont see any value in spending money or time "polishing" parts inside the T56.
I dont see any value in spending money or time "polishing" parts inside the T56.
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 151
Likes: 6
From: Houston Tx
I have a c5z, and it's well known for shifting problems. Tried it all, Tick, shifters, fluid, bleeding, spacing the detent pin. The Tick master was horrible to me, so I modded a stock one cutting inside stop, and making rod adjustable. That was better than the Tick, believe it or not. Butc the absolute best thing I did for shifting was a Textralia Exo-Skel clutch, twin 9 inch discs, and a lightweight flywheel. Hands down, the best ever, and I've had alot. So, yes, lighter discs help tremendously, MOI.
I have the Exo-Skel also.... and it is 38lbs total with flywheel/clutch/pp. It is one grabby SOB but once you get used to it the setup isn't too bad. I'm running a decent size 24x/25x .650" cam and idle is fine.
There are really lightweight clutch setups that are 13lbs for flywheel/clutch/pp that rev like crazy. ie quartermaster triple 7.25" Starting from a stop was brutal... but once you got going it was pretty awesome.
In my car I'm running a T56 Magnum and it shifts waaaaay smoother than any Fbody transmission ever will. The '93-02 Fbody T56 was designed over 20 years ago. The T56 Magnum is basically a TR6060 in a different case with triple synchros. It shifts like a new ZR1.... because the internals are essentially the same. (gearing different)
There are really lightweight clutch setups that are 13lbs for flywheel/clutch/pp that rev like crazy. ie quartermaster triple 7.25" Starting from a stop was brutal... but once you got going it was pretty awesome.
In my car I'm running a T56 Magnum and it shifts waaaaay smoother than any Fbody transmission ever will. The '93-02 Fbody T56 was designed over 20 years ago. The T56 Magnum is basically a TR6060 in a different case with triple synchros. It shifts like a new ZR1.... because the internals are essentially the same. (gearing different)
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I was gonna say faceplate too. I daily drove mine and put 18,000 street miles on it. It was still in great condition when I tore it down for inspection. The only downside is a bit of a curve to learn to drive it.
I agree faceplating would be the fastest but its not very street friendly. The t56 isnt the fastest shifting trans but it gets the job done. If you want quick shifting a magnum based tr6060 is the way to go... Even converting to the triple and double con sync design of the c5/gto trans still wont be as good.
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 158
Likes: 1
To make the T-56 shift like butter under power you have to know transmissions. One of the huge disadvantages of the T-56 is the enormous rotating mass fixed to the input shaft via the input gears and counter shaft. Add to that the inertia from the mile long torque tube in the Vette's and you can see emphasis on the synchros is important. Getting aggressive with the synchronizer tooth profile and timing to open the engagement window without overstepping. Reworking the braking rings to cut the oil better and get the gear and clutch shaft down/up to speed faster. Changing the tension of the key springs. Picking a good oil with the properties you're after.
Of course all of that is immediately wasted by a poorly shifting driver and/or a clutch package that doesn't release cleanly.
Of course all of that is immediately wasted by a poorly shifting driver and/or a clutch package that doesn't release cleanly.
Last edited by Monzsta; May 17, 2013 at 09:46 PM.
Thanks for the great info everyone. Wow, faceplating would have been right for my style but don't wanna spend the $. With all ya'lls advice, I am now thinking about relieving the flywheel on my stock LS7 clutch and leaving it at that. Good info on here.
Last edited by Vexzer; May 20, 2013 at 09:32 AM.
