AmarilloWS6

iTrader: (3)

I couldn't tell you that man, I tried to find out for you but couldn't find a date anywhere. Any word of what's wrong with your car yet?

Orange Juice

iTrader: (3)

Why would you not just use a ls7 clutch, I haven't used the Monster but this was a great clutch for a dd

AmarilloWS6

iTrader: (3)

The ls7 clutch weighs 60lbs, compared to the Monster that weighs 44lbs, or 54lbs with the 28lbs flywheel. Not only that but the ls7 still has the self adjusting pressure plate, which is the culprit of the eventual high-rpm lockout/pedal stuck to the floor problem. The ls7 clutch is a fine clutch if you're low on funds and need a clutch that will outperform a stock ls1/ls6 clutch, but if you have the money, there are MUCH better clutches on the market that still feel stock (with stock master obviously, not the Tick) but can take an absolute beating.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

There isn't a specified end date as of right now, so all I can say is take advantage of the savings while it lasts!

burbalanche

iTrader: (3)

love my monster 11" race clutch but selling it bc im going to auto bc my truck is offroad.for the little miles on it, its great clutch

ChiroStudent

No word on whats wrong with it yet, still waitin on the parts to get in before it gets torn apart. Should be apart this weekend though and back together hopefully! Thanks for all the help so far!

ChiroStudent

Decided to go with the monster clutch and would like to order today. Only problem now is deciding between the stage two or the stage three. I know amarillo has been preaching about the stage two in his vette, but im just a little cautious of going with a stage two in a heavier camaro. The car wont see a lot of time at the strip, maybe once a month or so but I do like to drive very aggressively from time to time on the street. Hoping steve will chime in to help out. As far as power level the car wont be anything more than a bolt on car for the next year or two until I can afford a H/C/I swap.

I dont mind the stage three being a little bit tougher to DD than a stage two but the only thing that is keeping me from ordering the stage three is that a lot of people seem to have an issue with it making noise at lower rpm take offs. Is this a common issue with the stage 3? I just spoke to one of the guys at monster and he said he has heard both sides of the story with a stage 3 clutch making noise and being quiet. TIA!

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

You have a 9" rearend and go to the track, so I would get the Level 3 as it's more of a street/strip clutch. As long as you clean the glaze off it by occasionally giving it a beating and don't overslip ie ride the clutch when driving normally then it'll stay happy: quietand smooth. Think you talked to Kameron, feel free to call me with any questions...Chris

ChiroStudent

Well, I can vouch for Monster's customer service being quick on the responces. Steve has been gettin right back to me answering my questions. The bad news is that moster is on back order for the stage 3 and I won't have my clutch by the weekend as I was hoping for. Hard to believe my luck with textralia not being able to get me a clutch for between 4-8 weeks and monster being a week before they can get me a clutch...

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

The lead time on clutches is ~3 days as they're built to order. With the sale going on we are a couple days behind as you can imagine being extremely busy, so I apologize for the delay.

brigade24

i've got a monster stage 2, tick MC, and lightened flywheel...i autox and do lots of lapping. it's solid setup for my application. i agree that you may need more than a level 2...Not sure if a multi-disc setup is good for drag??

I know my next clutch will be a multi-disc...not sure i would twin or triple but that will be further down the road.

ChiroStudent

The parts came in this past weekend and my dad and one of his friends got them installed for me. Just need the break in miles on the new clutch now. Also they measured the old clutch disc compared to the new clutch disc and there is barely any difference in the measurements between the two. I forget the exact numbers at the moment. The flywheel also looked good. Any way to tell if the pressure plate is junk or still worthy of being put in a box with the rest of the old setup to be used again at a later time?

ChiroStudent

Also, i know you are supposed to drive the car "normal" for the first 500 miles without excessively slipping the clutch. Is it not recommended to drive the car aggressively during the entire break in period then? Do you recommend not aggressively downshifting the car when coming up to a stop as well? Or if i rev match when downshifting will that be ok? Just really trying to do everything right on the break in period so hopefully I dont get any noise out of the clutch from becoming glazed. Thanks for your help!

niscur29

I love my monstaer stage 2 in my 240sx. Feels like the stock clutch in my wrx with a wilwood master cylinder. I'm about 80 miles into the break in cycle. Since in breaking in the motor and clutch I've taken the 500 miles approach like this. First 20-30 miles break the motor in via gradual load increases while in 3-5 gear at certain throttle positions to close to redline. Combined with engine breaking this should have also helped the clutch out. Once that was done I'm just driving it around in as much stop and go traffic as I can with some intermediate 2-3 mile sections without stopping but still in town shifting etc thrown in no interstate. Going to continue with that until I get to 500 then all hell will break loose. I think the key for the first 500 on the clutch is to not burn out, hard launch, clutch drops etc.

I was actually not going to get a monster because it was out of my budget but with the sales the have had so far it made it affordable enough to go ahead. It was either going to be a monster or ls7 as I didn't even consider any other brands. The warranty being there is great to have too should I ever need to use it.