mr93ws6

for the past month and a half ive been having clutch dragging problems. I installed a spec stage 3 clutch into my 98 trans am. after the install i had a problem with the clutch dragging, so i dropped the trans once again and threw the included slave cylinder shim thinking it was a clearance issue (because of the resurfaced flywheel). after installing the shim i still had dragging issues. after that i got fed up and sent it to a buddys shop. we replaced the slave and master cylinder with brand new oem equipment. after all is said and done, the clutch still drags. i could really use some help with this.

the only possibilities i could think of is that the oem slave and master can not put out the pressure required to fully disengage the pressure plate. i have been reading up and heard about a "drill mod" that increases the pressure in the clutch hydraulic system. do you guys think this is a possible remedy? or is there anything else i could be missing? any help would be greatly appreciated. like i said im at my wits end and about to sell the car....

thanks guys

JD_AMG

I gotta ask, why would anyone put an oem master cylinder back into an fbody with an aftermarket clutch???
Look at the Tick adjustable master cylinder.
Also how much power/torque are you making that requires you to want to use a spec stage 3 clutch?

mr93ws6

believe me, i wouldve loved to get a tick, but the funds just werent there...

to your other question, my first choice of clutch wouldve been another 2+, because thats what came out on the clutch change, but the 3 was cheaper.

mr93ws6

my car likes to stop working when i have little to no money to spend on it...

BOBS99SS

iTrader: (2)

Why would anyone ummm... because people are broke these days,kinda a dumb comment.man i had a spec 3 had kinda same issues,i wont get into what happend butbthat pos spec fell apart within 40 days idid no racing or anything but justvnormal driving, fought with spec to get it covered and they were no helpmine was clearly a product fail, after spec said they couldnt warty. It the ws6 store reslly helped me get into a monster stage 3 and its great, puts that spec to shame n monster will cover there warr. And before anyon asks the spec wass shimmed n installed correctlyband broken in correctly.hope yall can read this my new phone is a pita to type on

brigade24

one reason i'm not a fan of spec is because they need to be shimmed in more instances than not...was it dragging with the 2+ that was originally in it? if not, you could put it back in with a new disc, no? of course that would require some more effort but it's an option. Again, if this problem only began when you switch to a spec 3 then perhaps its the spec 3 that's the issue?

granted the oem MC is less than adequate, if the fluid is kept clean you shouldnt be having issues with the MC... Although the tick is a nice unit, there are others who produce good MC (adj. and non) for much less.

The only instance a larger bore MC (such as the tick) is not recommended would be if you went with a twin or triple disc setup which the spec 3 is not...JD's second question is relevant...why SPEC 3? are you racing/competing? because if you're not then an LS7 clutch setup may be your ticket...and you can get it for less.

if you're tight on cash, i would look to put the old unit back in with a new disc assuming there were no issues with it other than wear and tear.

burbalanche

iTrader: (3)

i have stock oe gto master and a monster 11" ceramic in my truck and had no issues with is at all.i made mine adj. also though

mr93ws6

i did not have any issues with the 2+, just with the 3. and i do race the car. doing the drill mod in about half an hour, and i guess we will see if it fixes my issue

Awake455

Drill mod will make the hyd clutch system more responsive in that it will move the clutch with less of a delay between what your foot does and what the pressure plate does. It won't increase pressure or volume of fluid pumped, that is a function of the piston bore and stroke on the master and slave cylinders.

If the flywheel is resurfaced and the spec clutches need a shim already, is it possible you need to measure for an additional (or a thicker) shim?

Not to offend or anything but are you confident it has been bled properly? I mean, so confident you'll bet your wife/girl's favorite purse and shoes on it?

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

^^^^This. Don't just throw a shim in there without measuring to see what kind of excess clearance you have.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

It has been noted before but we provide the shim because of variances in the stock bearing depth with the OE slave-cylinder. We also provide a sheet that explains how to take and interpret the measurements to determine if you need the shim. If these measurements weren't taken then it's hard to know whether you needed the shim or not. Additionally, you mention that the flywheel was resurfaced? Do you know how much material was taken off the flywheel? Had the flywheel be resurfaced before?

Measurements will be key to assessing what you need and whether or not is is relative to geometry. Other factors can include flywheel flatness and insuring that the flywheel is in plane, being sure that the pressure-plate to flywheel bolts are torqued properly and that loctite was used, and being certain that the disc was not bent during installation.

Give me a shout if you have questions about any of the above info, or post your questions here. I will be happy to help you assess this further.

One other question that is worth asking, have you tried pumping the pedal to see if that improves clutch release?

Streetlegal?

iTrader: (25)

I have the same issue except I can't even get the trans into gear when the car is on. Replaced the master with an adjustable one, put a new slave in when the trans was rebuilt, measured and the clearance was well within spec. Pulled the trans last night and threw the spacer that came with in there and put the trans back on. Car is still in the air so haven't had a chance to see if it works.

Very frustrated. I can get the car in gear no problem when it is off but as soon as I turn it on I can't get it anywhere close to in gear.

Hopefully the spacer fixes it...

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

If you are within the specified measurement then you shouldn't need the spacer. Unless of course your hydraulics are not working properly or you have a bent or reversed disc. Is the pedal effort consistent? Do you notice any difference in release if you pump the pedal?

Streetlegal?

iTrader: (25)

Pedal is consistent. I am 99% sure my disc is in the correct orientation and is not bent. It does not feel much different if I pump the pedal. Thinking I may have gotten a defective slave. I am not happy that I have to pull the trans once again...

Awake455

I dunno, it's a good bit of work to take a trans out and put it back in. Call me crazy but I can't see doing a clutch on one of these without measuring to see if shims are needed and if so how many. That's me though, I've learned the hard way enough times to make the lessons stick. Guess the need to measure isn't as widely known as I thought.

Streetlegal?

iTrader: (25)

I measured the first time and I did not need a shim. Threw one in since sometimes spec clutches need to be shimmed.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

The measurement determines your need for the shim. If you are within the window then there is no need for the shim. Having a slave or master that is unable to provide the needed pressure, or that are bleeding past the seals, can cause issues with actuation.

BALLSS

off topic from Op's ?'s but...

My understanding, from McLeod, is a "larger" MC (13/16") is required with their Street Twin (LT1)...which is why one comes with that kit. It is also adjustable to increase slave travel to disengage the twin.

more "stroke" is generally required for multi disc clutches

Streetlegal?

iTrader: (25)

Well I am going to be pulling the trans out once again so I'll recheck all the measurements and pull the shim if I need to.

3fingas

iTrader: (16)

Make sure your firewall is not flexing when your on the pedal.