Over the past 2 months I've noticed my pedal move "down". When I first set this up 2 years ago, my tick master + spec 3+ position was slightly past the brake pedal. Now it's below the brake pedal (closer to firewall).

A few months ago, I noticed I had a hard time with my cruise control. Turns out the return was now below the actuation of the switch. I didn't want to adjust position, but saw it had some play now between where it returned and how close it was to the switch meaning it was not returning back as far. On a long drive (600 miles) it did it again and now I am at maximum adjustment for the clutch safety switch + a spacer on the lever meaning technically its not coming close to touching the switch.

I've got a spare tick master I can swap in, but trying to grasp what the hell is happening here.

Car is daily driven.
Fluid level was exactly the same as last month (I swap out reservoir fluid each month to keep it somewhat fresh) It does "exchange" with the reservoir as it does get dirty.
No leaks on driveway.
Passes the 1st gear, clutch fully pressed, rev to 6k and ensure the car doesn't budge on a level surface.
Can row through gears 1-5 at WOT.
At 40mph and 6th gear, can floor it and not see a spike in RPM

Other than the throw distance is shorter and to keep the clutch switch triggered (needed for cruise control), I've resorted to putting on rubber spacers to reach the switch, it seems fine.

A theory I have is as the clutch wears, the actuation arms shorten distance meaning the return on the slave is not fully compressing. That or something is broken and I need to pinpoint it.

I messaged tick via their web form and have not received a reply. I own 2 genuine tick masters since 09 in the event a master goes keeps me from having real downtime, but I'd like some thoughts on this prior to swapping it out.

 

As clutch wear occurs the engagement point, relative to pedal travel will raise. There is no reason for the pedal travel to shorten relative to the clutch itself. However, if you were seeing bleed-by within one of the cylinders this could cause the pedal to drop. Do you notice the pedal returning more if you pump the pedal? Try disconnecting the quick-connect between the Master and Slave lines and then apply light effort to the clutch pedal. If it starts to drop then you are seeing pressure-loss within the Master. Let me know what you find. Thanks!

 

I will test that out this saturday when I may swap out master cylinders. Have 2 identical tick masters for such an emergency.

I noticed no pedal location change when pumped. The pedal is still nice and firm and the car drives like normal. It was my first instinct to pump it when my cruise shut off going over a bump. Clutch goes in/out like normal, just the pedal throw is shorter.

I can row through gears with no pedal fade, haven't done 100% wot, just some spirited 4k quick shifts 1 to 5.

I know from experience that when fluid backs up the tick master from the seal breaking down, it "appears" from the boot inside the car. Both times showed some fluid loss. Over the past 5 years, this has happened twice where the first time I had a complete master failure and it was bleeding pressure back that the clutch wouldn't hold. The 2nd time, I caught it early enough and just heard "squishy" noises and saw the fluid drip. This time around, its dry inside the car and fluid level is normal.

 

Interesting situation! Keep us posted!

 

I disconnected the master and found the play to be in the master. I swapped it out and found the master had some fluid in the boot. I will talk to tick on monday to discuss. Funny thing is the master doesnt budge with it disconnected

 

Thanks for the update! Keep me posted.