Documenting my conversion, c6 zo6 to rwd.
#81
perfect. Parts start arriving tomorrow.
The machine shop items are there getting cut. Hopefully this thing comes together in the next 2 weeks or so.
I'm probably running for the longest time to rebuild a trans.
The machine shop items are there getting cut. Hopefully this thing comes together in the next 2 weeks or so.
I'm probably running for the longest time to rebuild a trans.
#82
assembled the syncros. pretty easy. I ended up getting TGB billet keys. Hopefully they work out.
cleaned everything up...
popped them together..
do you guys grind the spring ends a little to prevent them from gouging the syncro hub? Some of the ends gouge and some don't..
also, the 3-4 syncro slider chamfer faces 3rd or 4th?
cleaned everything up...
popped them together..
do you guys grind the spring ends a little to prevent them from gouging the syncro hub? Some of the ends gouge and some don't..
also, the 3-4 syncro slider chamfer faces 3rd or 4th?
#83
I just realize I need races for the input shaft bearing and the front countershaft bearing in the mid plate. Got me thinking... Do I need any kind of special puller to pull the races back out to shim them? Or do they just pop in and out?
#84
Also, I image this fitting is for the return from the oem fluid pump?
Is it worth it to keep this active with an external electric pump? This trains is going in a hot street/ road course application. I assume I could pull the fluid out the drain plug, push it through a cooler and run it back in this factory hole.... Or just plug the hole.
Thoughts?
Is it worth it to keep this active with an external electric pump? This trains is going in a hot street/ road course application. I assume I could pull the fluid out the drain plug, push it through a cooler and run it back in this factory hole.... Or just plug the hole.
Thoughts?
#85
Anyone had a tough time getting on the 1-2 syncro hub?
I've tried tapping it on several different ways but it seems like it will need a strong push from the press.
I figured it would be tight but what is excessive?
I've tried tapping it on several different ways but it seems like it will need a strong push from the press.
I figured it would be tight but what is excessive?
#86
I never put them on by hand nor hammer. Always press.
Set it up for a pump so it's lubing the headset gears even if you have to wait a month or two to buy the pump itself.
Set it up for a pump so it's lubing the headset gears even if you have to wait a month or two to buy the pump itself.
#87
Is it 1/4 or 3/8 npt people are drilling and tapping the case to?
Also, I just realized I never got the detent ball, 53. Anyone know the size of the ball?
Is the corvette spring, 52, the same as f body? If so I have the spring just not the ball.
Also, I just realized I never got the detent ball, 53. Anyone know the size of the ball?
Is the corvette spring, 52, the same as f body? If so I have the spring just not the ball.
#89
1992-1994 units had a separate CAGS piece.
Spring is the same.
Buy a ball that slides easily into the bottom bunghole of any one of the three stooges you posted. Not tight like the shift rail fits them. A tiny bit looser.
Spring is the same.
Buy a ball that slides easily into the bottom bunghole of any one of the three stooges you posted. Not tight like the shift rail fits them. A tiny bit looser.
#90
I used 3/8.
Just dropped the case on. Bolt 45 just popped its head off while torquing. I got it out easily but I'll certainly replace 45 and 46. Guess the previous builder over torqued them?
Just dropped the case on. Bolt 45 just popped its head off while torquing. I got it out easily but I'll certainly replace 45 and 46. Guess the previous builder over torqued them?
#91
We'll i may have screwed up. Just noticed I have a random spacer/ring and I'm not sure where it goes.
1.788ID, 1.990" OD, .186" thick. It's steel.
I've had other parts in this parts 'kit' I bought. So I'm hoping it doesn't belong. I'm not sure.
I followed Mikes pictures and the manual very closely. I'm not sure...
1.788ID, 1.990" OD, .186" thick. It's steel.
I've had other parts in this parts 'kit' I bought. So I'm hoping it doesn't belong. I'm not sure.
I followed Mikes pictures and the manual very closely. I'm not sure...
#95
I really don't think that ring belongs to this trans.
Anyways, next problem is I never put the rubber orings anywhere. Never saw them in your pictures Mike? So I need to see where these are supposed to go and how important they are.
Other problem is the corvette reverse assemble is not fitting in the SSR tail. The triangle bracket is about the thickness of one of the trust washers from seating down all the way. Do I need an SSR specific piece or do I machine this one?
Other than that I am missing two retainer rings for the vss and the race/clip for the main shaft in the tail.
So I'm really close as long as I don't have to pull everything back apart.
I really appreciate y'all's help!
Anyways, next problem is I never put the rubber orings anywhere. Never saw them in your pictures Mike? So I need to see where these are supposed to go and how important they are.
Other problem is the corvette reverse assemble is not fitting in the SSR tail. The triangle bracket is about the thickness of one of the trust washers from seating down all the way. Do I need an SSR specific piece or do I machine this one?
Other than that I am missing two retainer rings for the vss and the race/clip for the main shaft in the tail.
So I'm really close as long as I don't have to pull everything back apart.
I really appreciate y'all's help!
#96
O-rings are for the vette front cover, not needed
There were 3 different rev idle setups produced, those with 1 shim, 2 shims, and no shims. If you transfer everything from one to another you should be ok, if not you may have to add or delete shims.
There were 3 different rev idle setups produced, those with 1 shim, 2 shims, and no shims. If you transfer everything from one to another you should be ok, if not you may have to add or delete shims.
#97
Lifting up on #140 while installing #45 helps line up #156 with the threaded case hole so that the head doesn't break off. Look in the hole before threaded #45 in and you'll see. A punch inserted in there will give you an idea how lined up it is.
#98
Bolt 45 was screwed before I touched it. I barely put any force in it and it snapped... Which is why it came out so easy. Owell. I replaced all the other hardware.
The reverse idle assembly I pulled from the vette rear as a unit and am trying to transplant in the SSR as a unit. I didn't see any shims with the vette setups but it seems like I need some now.
The reverse idle assembly I pulled from the vette rear as a unit and am trying to transplant in the SSR as a unit. I didn't see any shims with the vette setups but it seems like I need some now.
#99
looks like I need .100" spacers for the reverse assembly to work. Seem correct?
also, where to get 2 retaining rings that sit around the VSS ring(60 and 62)? What about the retainer number 84? I measured but mcmaster doesn't look like it has anything to match.
what size bolts hold the shifter in? What about the inspection cover? What about VSS sensor?
Is the brass shift cup worth it over the plastic?
also, where to get 2 retaining rings that sit around the VSS ring(60 and 62)? What about the retainer number 84? I measured but mcmaster doesn't look like it has anything to match.
what size bolts hold the shifter in? What about the inspection cover? What about VSS sensor?
Is the brass shift cup worth it over the plastic?
#100
http://www.thegearbox.org/i//t56_snap_ring_kit.jpg
is the one internal ring(top left) in this picture the correct one? #84 that holds the bearing race in the tail housing?
is the one internal ring(top left) in this picture the correct one? #84 that holds the bearing race in the tail housing?