Should I go LS7 clutch or monster stage 2? Feedback guys, help a newbie out!

 

What kind of power are you putting down? I'm more then happy with my monster stage 2 and I'm putting down 426whp...

 

i dont think this topic has ever been covered before. I would go with monster and stage# depending on your torque/goals.

 

I have an LS7 in my 6 speed car , I wish the previous owner had gone monster 2

ls7 is self adjusting and heavier than stock clutch , then especially if your on stock hydraulics your asking those stock hydraulics to deal with this heavier clutch than they were designed for and deal with it soon so you can please shift your car at rpm before the sun rises the next day.... mine has had new GM master , GM slave , fluid change in trans , weekly clutch hydraulic flushes via speed bleeder and still wont shift close to what I would consider quickly from other cars I have owned over the years , surely not quick enough to think about a no lift shift.

theres lots of threads in this section about this subject I paraphrased them for you ^

if your going to do it at least buy a light flywheel with it to compensate for the heavy clutch and if that works let me know lol

 

I have a ls7 clutch has been in my car 2 and half years has about 26k on it right now I have over 100 track passes on slick launching at 5500-6200 on a two step idk what my hp is as I have never dynoed the car but I should be in the mid 400s and also have probably 25 or them passes on a 100 shot and countless other passes on street tires my clutch still holds as good now as I did the day I put it in and I abuse it idk that if my clutch went out tomorrow I wouldn't replace it with another ls7 one, is it the best clutch out there no but I feel that its the best you can get and still drive like a stock clutch, and I have installed just about every name brand clutch in customer cars and still choose the ls7 for mine

 

does your setup shift quickly ? what flywheel ? adjustable master ? sounds like you love it so maybe you can help me love mine lol .

I have never had holding issues and doubt that a high rpm clutch dump would be an issue ( If I had something other than the 7.5") also passes the "rev test"

 

I have the gm flywheel that came in the kit from scoggin dickey, I have the first design mccloud master cylinder with a wilwood fix kit in it, I am currently using a mgw shifter I switch between it and my hurst I wont choose one over the other, my setup shifts good and it shifts as quick as I can, with the stock master cylinder I hated it but with a good adjustable I love it and it shifts so much better

 

Monster. Have had their 3.5 & 3.0 with 15lb chromoly flywheel (not offered anymore, only 18/28lb). Loved them. Currently have a custom twin disk from them waiting to go in.

I have also driven on stock ls6, ls7, McLeod rst, and always liked the monster more

 

thanks for the input- especially what may be the smoking gun that you hated it on stock master but love it now , I have been hesitant to buy one and find it still doesnt do what I want , I have a Kirban shifter - it feels great I dont think its my culprit.

sorry to the poster if this is abit of a threadjack but it should be pertinent info to you that if you go ls7 you ought to go adjustable master at the same time...I think price for ls7/tick master is similar to monster 2 with no master so money may be a wash for you if you price it out.

 

I used to no lift shift my LS7 clutch all the time. Now I can barely get it in to gear just normal driving. If they see any abuse, it's just a matter of time til they quit working properly. I broke down and bought a monster 2.

 

For the price difference (~$100) you might as well get a monster or TDP stage 2 and do it right the first time.

 

The LS7 clutches aren't worth the money when you can spend just a few more $ and get a Monster Stage 1 or 2.. The LS7 clutch is heavy, has a self-adjusting pressure plate (which is where 99% of people get their lumpy/sticking clutch issue), and the clutch dust they emit is horrid and will instantly infect your slave cylinder and contaminate the fluid. The Stage 2 hardly emits dust, and the dust it does emit is much less harmful than the dust the LS7/Stage 3 emits, thus there's less of a chance of your clutch fluid getting contaminated through the slave and ruining the slave. Here's a quote from Chris at SNL on the Corvette Forum, "A non organic clutch that has a higher coefficient of friction will naturally dust less than an organic therefore not get the fluid as dirty." My clutch fluid has stayed completely clear since I've installed the clutch and doesn't get murky at all. I bleed it with the Speed Bleeder once a month just to get the old fluid out though.
The Stage 2 Monster with an 18lbs flywheel weighs just a few pounds less than an ls1 clutch because the Monster Pressure Plate is heavier than the stock pressure plate, so the 18 pound flywheel kind of counteracts that, I've enjoyed the lightweight flywheel as well as my F-Body friends that I've talked into this same set-up. A Stage 2 with a 28 pound flywheel will weigh a few pounds more than a stock LS1 clutch but less than an LS7 clutch, some say the 28lbs flywheel is better suited for drag racing, 18lbs for auto-x/road racing. I don't have to give my car extra gas to get moving like the general consensus thinks, the flywheel isn't THAT light.
I've had my Tick Master and Stage 2 Monster in for about 20,000 DAILY DRIVEN miles I believe and it has been the best mod I've ever done to the car, the pedal gets a little stiffer (C5 pedals get heavier than F-Body pedals with the Tick Master for some reason, but in a positive way, still 100% drivable) but not bad at all, just give the clutch a more positive feel. I've power shifted it and given it some hell some days and it hasn't gotten hot enough to burn (or at least smell) nor has it even gotten the least bit of limp. Monster clutches also comes with EVERYTHING you need to install so there's no guesswork and no need for a shim.
Here's the link that comes with EVERYTHING you need for a nice clean swap
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...camaro-firebird/
Here's my set-up:

 

Please don't take offense, but if you're launching at 5500-6200 and only cutting a 1.82 60' NA and 1.72 on spray, something is going on...I've cut a 1.49 with my Level 2 NA in my 422rwhp C5 fwiw

I won't voice my opinion in this thread as it might be a little biased

 

that was on a wore out set of slicks and on stock suspension the car was spinning bad leaving the line I think theme passes were from November 2011, I have cut 1.6 60 ft full weight stock springs and shocks all the way around on a new set et streets bias ply to bad second gear took a dump on that outing I would have loved to had a time slip for that pass if all goes good I should be at the track next weekend and I hope to get a good pass with the new heads and trans, and btw not trying to bring up old stuff but im still waiting to take you up on that challenge you issued a little over a year ago

 

I have driven a F-Body with an LS7, and a Monster Stage 3 and the Monster was a better feel.

 

Level 3 is a little grabby and you need to get use to it, but I like the feel of it.

 

I would imagine it is haha. Sort of my point, a level 3 is a stronger, therefore stiffer clutch, if I like it more than the LS7, that says something lol. I would do the Monster Level 2, no ifs, ands, or buts.

 

I was just going for a nice clutch on a Bolt On setup. Lot of great feedback. Thanks guys. I will be going Monster Stage 2 soon enough!

 

My cars a full bolt on car and it's a great clutch! You'll love it!

 

Spinning the tires doesn't really put any strain on the clutch, sounds like when you actually put a sticky tire on the car and cut a decent 60' the clutch didn't like it locking you out of 2nd gear and ultimately destroying your synchro. I'm not sure exactly of the challenge you speak of, so you'll have to refresh my memory.