badformulaLS1

iTrader: (1)

Ok this is really weird, the problem is now totally different than before. All the gears are hard to get into like mentioned above, especially reverse. However, when I first start the car the shifter moves through the gears smooth as butter, including reverse. After 5 mins of driving it stiffens back up. When in first or reverse (mainly reverse) it stutters badly when at slow speeds (5ish mph). I can feel that it is something in the transmission. Feels like the whole car shakes. Reverse is now nearly impossible to get into. It comes down to luck now if I can back out of a parking spot or not... Sometimes it'll go in with some force, other times it just will not cooperate at all. Other than when I first start the car like mentioned above... Thats the only time it goes into gear without a huge hassle. The vibration in the pedal is still there.

The pedal used to disengage really early off the floor with no gas, and now it engages and disengages normally for the most part.

If the clutch, or pressure plate were bad it would always be bad right? It's weird how it gives no trouble for the first few minutes after start up. I was convinced before that it was a hydraulic issue but now I am convinced that it's not. Also, high rpm shifting is not difficult. Besides the shifter being stiffer. Which when you're gunning it you usually throw it into the next gear with some force anyways, so high rpm shifting is fine.

So most likely a pressure plate issue? Im going with the LS7 clutch kit to replace the spec. Just wish I could tell if it was the bolts that just need tightening before tearing the trans out, and spending the money on a clutch kit that may not be needed.

badformulaLS1

iTrader: (1)

So with all of this said is a pressure plate issue still what everyone thinks it is? If not the pressure plate or the clutch, maybe the slave? Shift forks? Solenoid? Syncros?

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

Down shifting improperly and "power" up shifting puts more strain on the pressure plate bolts and will loosen them up faster if they weren't torqued properly in the first place or loc tite wasn't used. At this point everything is speculation, but something is definitely going on and I would pull it out to inspect it before it causes more damage or ordering a new clutch unless you just want to spend money. Let us know what you find out, Chris.

SladeX

I would immediately get it to a shop to pull the transmission. The more you attempt to shift the transmission while the engine is still engaged to it, the more damage you will do to internals and the cost will go up exponentially compared to a best case scenario of pull the transmission and tighten the bolts scenario.

badformulaLS1

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys, going to see what I can do. It's just not really in the funds. Terrible time for this to happen. I'll get it to a shop asap though. Another thing, I read a thread with a guy having a similar issue and it turned out he was 2qts low on tranny fluid. Another possibility for me also? Is there a way I can check it?

The grinding is also becoming much worse particularly 3rd and 4th and 5th not as bad.

BALLSS

OP

you clearly have a problem. could be hydraulics or the clutch itself....continued driving is only going to wear the internal transmission parts more. you are really going to have to pull tranny to inspect clutch or internal slave/TO bearing to see WTF condition the clutch is in

checking the fluid is easy. There should be a "fill" plug on driver side of tranny. remove it. if fluid starts to come out...it is full. if not stick your little finger in and see if you can touch fluid, if so you are still good. if not add fluid until it starts to drip out of hole. you can get a hand pump that goes into a 1 qt jug of fluid to make easy fill if needed.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Definitely check the fluid...running the trans while low can cause lots of issues including difficulty shifting and major damage to the internals. Let us know what you find.

badformulaLS1

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the responses. It's been storming like crazy yesterday and today so I haven't had a chance to check the fluid. If I am low, the damage has likely already been done. If I'm grinding gears then is it a sure sign of bad snycro or shift forks? Or are there other things that cause it? I'm kind of hoping it will just go away after installing the new clutch kit. I read syncros usually go bad in the lower gears like 2nd more often though, and mine started grinding 4th first so that gives me a tiny bit of hope.

SladeX

ever try to shift when the clutch is engaged? that should be a similar sound to a partially engaged clutch while shifting as well.

A quick test is on a flat surface leave it in first gear ensure the clutch is pressed in and supposedly not engaged and then rev the car. If it moves forward, its touching.

badformulaLS1

iTrader: (1)

Ok I'll try that. What do you mean by its touching?

BALLSS

Bad...

to confirm if your clutch is disengageing all the way just jack up rear end (put on jackstands), start motor, put car in gear with clutch pedal all the way down. if tires spin....your clutch is not disengageing. The "why" can be either hydraulic or clutch but typically hydraulics if that is the case. You could also just start car, put in gear with clutch to the floor and rev engine. if car moves...clutch is not disengageing....sometimes if it only drags a little this method may not reveal that as the weight of the car keeps it from moving which is why jacking it up is what I have done to check.

'your" issue with the vibration points more to clutch, either lose PP bolts or bad clutch......which also can cause the clutch to not "disengage". disengagement issues will cause hard shifting, grinding of gears and if continued WILL take out hard internal parts

with all this said "something" could be damaged inside tranny causing all of this...but more likely your problem is in front of the tranny.....

you could also have a bad pilot bearing causing drag on the input shaft. if replacing the clutch replace the pilot bearing, regardless of what it looks like.

badformulaLS1

iTrader: (1)

Ok I tested it and right around 3k rpm the car started to roll forward... Ordering the new clutch kit first thing tomorrow morning. Going to tackle the swap myself with the help of some more experienced friends.

badformulaLS1

iTrader: (1)

Updating this.
Well I was finally able to get my car to a shop. Tech took everything apart and wow.... Pressure plate bolts were not torqued down at all (came off by hand), and the clutch was also misaligned when installed which caused it to bend . Whoever did this install was a joke. They didn't use anti-seize on the dowels or loc-tite on the bolts and the pilot bearing was trashed. Can't believe I was driving the car like that nor can I believe someone could do such a shitty job of installing a clutch. Anyways, new clutch is going in and she should be back on the road tomorrow afternoon Thanks for everyones help and advice on here.