just bought a t/a have trans questions
Alright so I totaled my 96 z28 in december and it also had a t56 but I did not have these problems.
The problems im having are this, the car stutters when im releasing the clutch until it gets going unless I release the clutch real fast. Also when I go to bang gears fast into second I get a grind even thoufh it still goes in. It does not do this when I shift liesurley like im regularly driving. I also have noticed that when I downshift I get a stutter vibration unless I rev match it upon downshift. Sort of irritating because I didnt notice any of this during the test drive.
Wondering what everyones opinions are, in a couple weeks ill probably replace the fluid as ive read that helps this sometimes, we shall see though.
Also like stated my t56 in ny 96 did none of this and was always smooth with a stock clutch even after the heads and cam (minus the occasional slipping on a hot day)
The problems im having are this, the car stutters when im releasing the clutch until it gets going unless I release the clutch real fast. Also when I go to bang gears fast into second I get a grind even thoufh it still goes in. It does not do this when I shift liesurley like im regularly driving. I also have noticed that when I downshift I get a stutter vibration unless I rev match it upon downshift. Sort of irritating because I didnt notice any of this during the test drive.
Wondering what everyones opinions are, in a couple weeks ill probably replace the fluid as ive read that helps this sometimes, we shall see though.
Also like stated my t56 in ny 96 did none of this and was always smooth with a stock clutch even after the heads and cam (minus the occasional slipping on a hot day)
not that i have noticed, clutch pedal comes right out when i let off the clutch. I have read that the master cylinder going bad on these is common though, what are the tall tale signs of that? I have left it in gear sometimes though and forgo to turn it off and releaseed the clutch but pushed it back in and kept the car alive, when i've done that in the old camaro i had it never stayed alive and always died so maybe the clutch is stiking a little bit.
I'm not sure what clutch is in the car, i would imagine a stock replacement clutch since most of the car is also stock.
with unknown history of the car, I would start with replacing as much of the fluid as you can with fresh. the LT1 sealed hydraulics are difficut to completely "flush" without disassembly and then bleeding can be frustrating.. Use something to get the fluid out of the resovoir and replace. Remove slave from bell housing and pump piston by hand with slave pointed down while a friend watches for any bubbles coming up.
Then jack the rear wheels up and put car on stands. start engine and in gear with clutch pushed all th eway in...and holding it there for a min or two...do the rear wheels start to turn? If so your hydraulics are losing presure, most likely a bad MC.
Your clutch may be worn and need replacing. Or it could be a "puc" type disc replacement clutch which tend to "chatter" on engagement, especially if slipped.
bleed your hydraulics first and confirm they are in good condition. If that does not resolve, you will have to pull tranny to inspect clutch and or tranny
Then jack the rear wheels up and put car on stands. start engine and in gear with clutch pushed all th eway in...and holding it there for a min or two...do the rear wheels start to turn? If so your hydraulics are losing presure, most likely a bad MC.
Your clutch may be worn and need replacing. Or it could be a "puc" type disc replacement clutch which tend to "chatter" on engagement, especially if slipped.
bleed your hydraulics first and confirm they are in good condition. If that does not resolve, you will have to pull tranny to inspect clutch and or tranny
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with unknown history of the car, I would start with replacing as much of the fluid as you can with fresh. the LT1 sealed hydraulics are difficut to completely "flush" without disassembly and then bleeding can be frustrating.. Use something to get the fluid out of the resovoir and replace. Remove slave from bell housing and pump piston by hand with slave pointed down while a friend watches for any bubbles coming up.
Then jack the rear wheels up and put car on stands. start engine and in gear with clutch pushed all th eway in...and holding it there for a min or two...do the rear wheels start to turn? If so your hydraulics are losing presure, most likely a bad MC.
Your clutch may be worn and need replacing. Or it could be a "puc" type disc replacement clutch which tend to "chatter" on engagement, especially if slipped.
bleed your hydraulics first and confirm they are in good condition. If that does not resolve, you will have to pull tranny to inspect clutch and or tranny
Then jack the rear wheels up and put car on stands. start engine and in gear with clutch pushed all th eway in...and holding it there for a min or two...do the rear wheels start to turn? If so your hydraulics are losing presure, most likely a bad MC.
Your clutch may be worn and need replacing. Or it could be a "puc" type disc replacement clutch which tend to "chatter" on engagement, especially if slipped.
bleed your hydraulics first and confirm they are in good condition. If that does not resolve, you will have to pull tranny to inspect clutch and or tranny
I wont drive the vehicle much except for inspection friday since weather is cold and crappy however once i get fluids changed i'll post back my results i suppose.
well i changed my fluids and only drove the car to the end of the road and back (new 315s are rubbing somewhere so i need to bfh some more didnt wanna drive far). The car felt like it shifted smoother however the second gear still grinded 2 out of 3 times i shifted fast, not sure if the new fluid needs to move around more or that one time i just didn't **** as fast as i thought i did. Oh well guess i'll be granny shifting into 2nd for a while, to much other things that need my attention.





