Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

Drill mod & slave spacer???

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Old May 13, 2004 | 07:10 PM
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Default Drill mod & slave spacer???

My 6-puck SPEC 3 can with a spacer for the slave. Now if I do the drill mod will I still need this spacer?? I guess I'm asking if I should do both or will the spacer compensate for the restricted line.
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Old May 25, 2004 | 04:08 PM
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knowone??
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Old May 25, 2004 | 04:34 PM
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According to SPEC's instructions, yes. I put the spacer/shim in and did the drill mod and it seems to work fine.
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Old May 25, 2004 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by thxone
According to SPEC's instructions, yes. I put the spacer/shim in and did the drill mod and it seems to work fine.

Ditto that. My new Spec 3 clutch has only 60 miles on it ands it's feelin' mighty nice already.
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Old May 25, 2004 | 11:12 PM
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Yeah, you will still need the spacer. My Spec III didn't come with a spacer, didn't know I needed one at all. Did a new master and drill mod. The thing wouldn't engage right. Called the sponser that sold me the Spec and they asked alot of questions, finally asked about the spacer. I told them I didn't get one. Spec overnighted me one, I put it in and guess what? Perfect. Have had no problems since. Hope this helps.
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Old Feb 1, 2005 | 03:26 PM
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Whats the drill mod? this is going to be my first clutch install so not too educated with it, also the spec instructions recommend going with a newer slave and master...like 01 or 02. Why? Is that neccassary?
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Old Feb 1, 2005 | 10:53 PM
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Do you need the spacer for the Spec stage 2?
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Old Feb 1, 2005 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by MTz8
Whats the drill mod? this is going to be my first clutch install so not too educated with it, also the spec instructions recommend going with a newer slave and master...like 01 or 02. Why? Is that neccassary?
Do a search for "drill mod" and you'll pull up some write-ups on how to do it. It's basically drilling out a restriction in the line that runs from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. This helps the fluid travel faster during high rpm shifting, and will keep you from being blocked out of the next gear due to the clutch not fully disengaging. The toughest thing about the whole process, is taking out the master cylinder, and installing it back in. You'll be in for some twisted positions for that.

And it's best to switch over the upgraded hydraulics if you're doing a clutch swap. Sort of like upgrading your timing chain, and oil pump while you're doing a cam/springs install. You're already tearing it down, might as well get those parts swapped out while they're easily accessible. The upgraded hydraulics (atleast the slave) will also help with high rpm shifting.

SLEEK00SS: If your spec 2 comes with the spacer, install it. I think spec recommends it for all their clutches.
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 09:52 AM
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It is an excellent idea to upgrade your slave while you are already in there to the 01-02 slave. You don't need the slave going out a few hundred miles down the road because it's got some age on it and your spec is new and a far cry from the stocker. The older master cylinder will probably fail soon after the install of your spec. So buying a new one, performing the drill mod on it is a good idea. Many on here will agree I think.
The spacer is a must to position the slave closer to the pressure plate for full engagement. If you leave it out, you will be pulling the tranny again.
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Old Feb 6, 2005 | 12:58 AM
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Go to install university and they have a step by step how to on the drill mod. Make sure you have the steel spacer.There are some thick cardboard spacers still floating around, they get wet when you go to bleed the master and loose there shape.You have to use the spacer, with out it you will miss gears at high RPM.I found out the hard way, I got one of the first 3I dicks and it had a cardboard spacer, it got wet after bleeding and lost shape and I started missing gears at the track, called spec and they knew right away what the problem was and shipped me out a metal spacer so I had to drop everything out of the car again. Have fun bleeding that master......get someone who knows how to bleed them or you will pull your hair out,worst part of the hole job is bleeding that master
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 02SOMWS6
You have to use the spacer, with out it you will miss gears at high RPM.I found out the hard way, I got one of the first 3I dicks and it had a cardboard spacer,
cardboard or fiberglass. The 3i I got had a green-ish spacer that was more less fiberglass.

I do though miss some shifts/hard engagement when at high rpm, particularly 3/4 gears. I did use the spacer but I never did the drill mod and was thinking that getting the drill mod done would help out with this.

Mine is a '02 so I have the better slave, etc.
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Old Feb 8, 2005 | 02:39 PM
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AgentOrange, I would definitely try the drill mod.
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Old Feb 8, 2005 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by AgentOrange
cardboard or fiberglass. The 3i I got had a green-ish spacer that was more less fiberglass.

I do though miss some shifts/hard engagement when at high rpm, particularly 3/4 gears. I did use the spacer but I never did the drill mod and was thinking that getting the drill mod done would help out with this.

Mine is a '02 so I have the better slave, etc.
It was GREEN, call them up and tell them you have the green spacer and your missing gears because of it, they should send you the metal one for free,........they should...... you might have to pay
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 02SOMWS6
It was GREEN, call them up and tell them you have the green spacer and your missing gears because of it, they should send you the metal one for free,........they should...... you might have to pay

OK, will do. I plan on doing the drill mod too, but I'll get the spacer and put it in when I can.
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 09:54 PM
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does stage 1 need to use the spacer?
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 09:55 PM
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Holy three-and-a-half year old thread! At least the search function is getting used, lol.
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