Installing new monster clutch
09-26-2014, 12:14 AM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Installing new monster clutch So I've done several automatic trans swaps in the past, but the only manual I've ever done was on an S-10, when I was 8 or 9 years old with my dad. The problem I am having is most likley due to my inexperience.
I have got the new flywheel and disc and pressure plate all on, torqued down, and the bellhousing back on, and I noticed the allignment tool is rather tight to push in or pull out. Now that I'm trying to get the main shaft stabbed back in im having a hell of a time and I'm thinking it's because of that tight fit. Is that normal or did I not line the disc up properly when I installed the PP.
I've tried starting bolts to see if I can just snug em up and suck the trans in but only one or 2 bolt holes will line up and it just wants to **** it to one side. Do i need to pull the clutch back off and try again?
I have got the new flywheel and disc and pressure plate all on, torqued down, and the bellhousing back on, and I noticed the allignment tool is rather tight to push in or pull out. Now that I'm trying to get the main shaft stabbed back in im having a hell of a time and I'm thinking it's because of that tight fit. Is that normal or did I not line the disc up properly when I installed the PP.
I've tried starting bolts to see if I can just snug em up and suck the trans in but only one or 2 bolt holes will line up and it just wants to **** it to one side. Do i need to pull the clutch back off and try again?
09-26-2014, 03:37 AM
#2
Teching In
Thread Starter
Also, I don't really think the clutch was my issue but I'd like to lay it out there and see what input any of you might have.
The whole reason I parked the car was because of a grinding noise. I could hear it in 1st-4th (I reckon road noise is the only reason I couldn't hear it in 5th & 6th) but it was only between certain rpm's but I don't recall exactly what rpm's. Being that it was in every gear, my first thoughts were clutch related, so I went ahead and ordered the Monster. When i pulled the stock unit it actually looked very good, which concerned me. A few days prior to the start of the grinding I pulled in my driveway and around the back of the house where I normally back my car in between the garage door and my bedroom door. This time however the shifter would not go into reverse, or any gear at all. Well I have a short temper as it is and I was pissed about something else to begin with, so my anger got the best of me and I may possibly have abused the shifter some lol. 2 or 3 days later the grinding started. I should also mention that there is an additional grinding noise unique to second gear, it happens durring the shift, it is louder and can be felt significantly more in the shifter. The rest of the gears don't grind until I let the clutch out and accelerate.
In short, I think a possible failing master cylinder may have been causing my clutch not to fully disengage and prematurely wearing out my synchros.
So my plan of action is first, get everything put back together and see if the clutch has resolved my issue. If not, then a tick MC and new synchros. Is there anything else I should be considering? Also, how difficult of a job is it to replace synchros? I've never cracked into a trans before auto or manual. However I am a maintenance man, I work on large CNC machines that build airplane wings and other plane parts, so intricate machines and parts don't really intimdate me, but I would feel a whole lot better if there was a decent write up on it available. I may just have to use the T-56 rebuild write up and use the bits that I need. oh yeah, idk how relavent it is, ive heard people argue wether it matters or not, but theres this crazy lookin spring that i reckon is just for holding the weight of the pedal off the clutch. Mine broke like 2 years ago, i dont really think its that big a deal but i suppose it could have contributed to this issue.
The whole reason I parked the car was because of a grinding noise. I could hear it in 1st-4th (I reckon road noise is the only reason I couldn't hear it in 5th & 6th) but it was only between certain rpm's but I don't recall exactly what rpm's. Being that it was in every gear, my first thoughts were clutch related, so I went ahead and ordered the Monster. When i pulled the stock unit it actually looked very good, which concerned me. A few days prior to the start of the grinding I pulled in my driveway and around the back of the house where I normally back my car in between the garage door and my bedroom door. This time however the shifter would not go into reverse, or any gear at all. Well I have a short temper as it is and I was pissed about something else to begin with, so my anger got the best of me and I may possibly have abused the shifter some lol. 2 or 3 days later the grinding started. I should also mention that there is an additional grinding noise unique to second gear, it happens durring the shift, it is louder and can be felt significantly more in the shifter. The rest of the gears don't grind until I let the clutch out and accelerate.
In short, I think a possible failing master cylinder may have been causing my clutch not to fully disengage and prematurely wearing out my synchros.
So my plan of action is first, get everything put back together and see if the clutch has resolved my issue. If not, then a tick MC and new synchros. Is there anything else I should be considering? Also, how difficult of a job is it to replace synchros? I've never cracked into a trans before auto or manual. However I am a maintenance man, I work on large CNC machines that build airplane wings and other plane parts, so intricate machines and parts don't really intimdate me, but I would feel a whole lot better if there was a decent write up on it available. I may just have to use the T-56 rebuild write up and use the bits that I need. oh yeah, idk how relavent it is, ive heard people argue wether it matters or not, but theres this crazy lookin spring that i reckon is just for holding the weight of the pedal off the clutch. Mine broke like 2 years ago, i dont really think its that big a deal but i suppose it could have contributed to this issue.
09-26-2014, 09:20 AM
#3
It is tricky, but important that the alignment tool can slide in without interference. Snug the PP and check with the alignment tool, if it doesn't basically fall out, loosen the PP, hold up on the tool just a bit, then re-tighten and re-check.
Hopefully you haven't messed up the pilot bearing yet, but I imagine it's possible from the sounds of what you've done so far.
You may have bent the shift forks in your fit of rage.
Hopefully you haven't messed up the pilot bearing yet, but I imagine it's possible from the sounds of what you've done so far.
You may have bent the shift forks in your fit of rage.
09-26-2014, 10:27 AM
#4
Don't forget red loctite on the pressure plate bolts!
If you have further questions beyond this just give me a shout at Steve@MonsterClutches.com.
09-26-2014, 10:56 AM
#5
ive installed a few, and you have to be carful with the alignment tool sometimes people think they have it pushed all the way in and flush, but if your not holding it dead center when you start tighting the PP it can slip down some or adjust from tighting the bolts. Ive found holding it in with some pressure and making sure its centered while I tighten the PP bolts a little will keep it seated. I don't even remove the Alignment tool until all bolts are trqed down. Sometimes its a lot easier to remove the bellhousing and install it first then do the pressure plate so that way you cantwist and turn it however you need without worryin about the dowls. You definetly don't want to crank down on anything to force it in, if dowls are not lined up you can break the block. ive found the easiest way to line it up actually is with 2 people just man handling it LOL. its hard to get a tranny jack to rest in the perfect spot to align it.
09-27-2014, 10:50 AM
#6
OP
If you haven't, replace pilot bearing on any clutch swap. Never pull in a tranny with bolts as you will most likely kill a pilot bearing.
As noted keep "straight" pressure on alignment tool while initially tightening a few PP bolts enough to hold the disc in place. Run your fingers and look around the disc & PP edge. There should be = all they way around so the disc is not favoring one edge of the PP.
You may have tranny and or hydraulic issues also regarding the grinding noises you have
If you haven't, replace pilot bearing on any clutch swap. Never pull in a tranny with bolts as you will most likely kill a pilot bearing.
As noted keep "straight" pressure on alignment tool while initially tightening a few PP bolts enough to hold the disc in place. Run your fingers and look around the disc & PP edge. There should be = all they way around so the disc is not favoring one edge of the PP.
You may have tranny and or hydraulic issues also regarding the grinding noises you have