Bleeding the clutch
#1
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Hell
Posts: 769
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Do I disconnect the hydraulic line on the tranny and have someone pump the clutch pedal until all the air bubbles escape? Keeping in mind to have the master cylinder resevoir full at all times.
#2
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Waco, TX
Posts: 6,449
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
No, you don't disconnect the line. Pump the pedal a few times, hold down the clutch pedal, have someone crack the bleeder valve (it's above where the line goes in to the trans, with a 7/16" socket), close the bleeder, then pull the clutch pedal up. Pump the clutch a bunch, then repeat. Check the fluid after every 2-3 "cracks" of the valve.
#3
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Hell
Posts: 769
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Camaroholic
No, you don't disconnect the line. Pump the pedal a few times, hold down the clutch pedal, have someone crack the bleeder valve (it's above where the line goes in to the trans, with a 7/16" socket), close the bleeder, then pull the clutch pedal up. Pump the clutch a bunch, then repeat. Check the fluid after every 2-3 "cracks" of the valve.
#4
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Waco, TX
Posts: 6,449
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Are you having to push really hard on the shifter to get it in to reverse / to the right?
If so, then odds are that the electrical connector for the reverse lockout solenoid isn't hooked up properly, or a pin may have gotten bent or pushed out. Check it out. It's on the passenger's side of the trans, up near the shifter base. Check the pins inside the solenoid connector, and the pins on the wiring harness side.
If so, then odds are that the electrical connector for the reverse lockout solenoid isn't hooked up properly, or a pin may have gotten bent or pushed out. Check it out. It's on the passenger's side of the trans, up near the shifter base. Check the pins inside the solenoid connector, and the pins on the wiring harness side.
#5
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Hell
Posts: 769
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Camaroholic
Are you having to push really hard on the shifter to get it in to reverse / to the right?
If so, then odds are that the electrical connector for the reverse lockout solenoid isn't hooked up properly, or a pin may have gotten bent or pushed out. Check it out. It's on the passenger's side of the trans, up near the shifter base. Check the pins inside the solenoid connector, and the pins on the wiring harness side.
If so, then odds are that the electrical connector for the reverse lockout solenoid isn't hooked up properly, or a pin may have gotten bent or pushed out. Check it out. It's on the passenger's side of the trans, up near the shifter base. Check the pins inside the solenoid connector, and the pins on the wiring harness side.