Sticky shifter ?
Thread Starter
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
Sticky shifter ? I just replaced the B&M shifter on my T56 as I felt the centering action was not pronounced enough, and made it too easy to miss 3rd and hit 2-1 instead.
It's faceplated...so it goes into gear very easily, whether 3 or 1.
I bought a Pro5 as seen some people suggest it was well sprung, for want of a better description. And to be fair it does feel quite strong off the car in both directions
The trans itself, same issue with either plastic cup or bronze cup. Both are in good condition.
I can easily move across the gate in neutral ( no shifter fitted ) and the cup requires little effort to move side to side. So I dont feel there is any issue there.
When I bolt up the Pro5 though, I cannot get it installed in a position where there is a good centering action both ways.
If it's strong 5/6 to 3/4 then it wont go 1/2 to 3/4
If it's strong 1/2 to 3/4 then it's very poor 5/6 to 3/4
I enlarged the bolt holes and this did help a little giving me more room to play with base position. But it's still not good. The old B&M was much better.
Any suggestions ?
It's faceplated...so it goes into gear very easily, whether 3 or 1.
I bought a Pro5 as seen some people suggest it was well sprung, for want of a better description. And to be fair it does feel quite strong off the car in both directions
The trans itself, same issue with either plastic cup or bronze cup. Both are in good condition.
I can easily move across the gate in neutral ( no shifter fitted ) and the cup requires little effort to move side to side. So I dont feel there is any issue there.
When I bolt up the Pro5 though, I cannot get it installed in a position where there is a good centering action both ways.
If it's strong 5/6 to 3/4 then it wont go 1/2 to 3/4
If it's strong 1/2 to 3/4 then it's very poor 5/6 to 3/4
I enlarged the bolt holes and this did help a little giving me more room to play with base position. But it's still not good. The old B&M was much better.
Any suggestions ?
On my Hurst the centering action is done by two springs, one on the left side of the shifter and one on the right.
Initially I was having the same problem and found that there was an extra secondary spring to act as a reverse lockout on the passengers side. So my shifter is heavy left because I actually don't have reverse lockout. There should be a narrower spring inside one of the leveling springs if it's like my hurst
If you want it to center it will require disassembling the shifter and removing the secondary inner spring
Initially I was having the same problem and found that there was an extra secondary spring to act as a reverse lockout on the passengers side. So my shifter is heavy left because I actually don't have reverse lockout. There should be a narrower spring inside one of the leveling springs if it's like my hurst
If you want it to center it will require disassembling the shifter and removing the secondary inner spring
Thread Starter
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
On my Hurst the centering action is done by two springs, one on the left side of the shifter and one on the right.
Initially I was having the same problem and found that there was an extra secondary spring to act as a reverse lockout on the passengers side. So my shifter is heavy left because I actually don't have reverse lockout. There should be a narrower spring inside one of the leveling springs if it's like my hurst
If you want it to center it will require disassembling the shifter and removing the secondary inner spring
Initially I was having the same problem and found that there was an extra secondary spring to act as a reverse lockout on the passengers side. So my shifter is heavy left because I actually don't have reverse lockout. There should be a narrower spring inside one of the leveling springs if it's like my hurst
If you want it to center it will require disassembling the shifter and removing the secondary inner spring
But some shifters are obviously able to overcome this.
The B&M had same spring each side. Pro5, same spring each side.
The OEM shifter had 2 springs to go from 1/2 to 3/4 and a single spring for 5/6 to 3/4 central position.
With the OEM it does centre very well from the left, but not so much from the right.
The B&M worked ok with both, but not super strong. Pro5 probably had least centering action.
But each shifter itself when not installed does have good strong springs.
Will just leave the OEM in for now anyway, but car's off the road now for winter upgrades anyway so wont be driving again til next year probably.
If I get really really bored, might pull the trans apart again to see if I can find out what's not moving right.
I can easily move across the gate in neutral ( no shifter fitted )
When I bolt up the Pro5 though, I cannot get it installed in a position where there is a good centering action both ways.
If it's strong 5/6 to 3/4 then it wont go 1/2 to 3/4
If it's strong 1/2 to 3/4 then it's very poor 5/6 to 3/4
I enlarged the bolt holes and this did help a little giving me more room to play with base position. But it's still not good. The old B&M was much better.
Any suggestions ?
When I bolt up the Pro5 though, I cannot get it installed in a position where there is a good centering action both ways.
If it's strong 5/6 to 3/4 then it wont go 1/2 to 3/4
If it's strong 1/2 to 3/4 then it's very poor 5/6 to 3/4
I enlarged the bolt holes and this did help a little giving me more room to play with base position. But it's still not good. The old B&M was much better.
Any suggestions ?
The T56 pro 5.0 has always been a ***** turret. This is partially due to carryover of the offset lever depth in the T56.
More reading.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ease-help.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ketpi-etc.html
Thread Starter
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
There is no interrnal centering in F-body / GTO hence your first above statement.
The T56 pro 5.0 has always been a ***** turret. This is partially due to carryover of the offset lever depth in the T56.
More reading.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ease-help.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ketpi-etc.html
The T56 pro 5.0 has always been a ***** turret. This is partially due to carryover of the offset lever depth in the T56.
More reading.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ease-help.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ketpi-etc.html
The detent spring/guide plate seemed good with nothing that should cause it to stick.
The pin that rotates between the various forks was good, but I will say that even this didnt seem as smooth as maybe it should have been in the steel forms that extend from the shift forks.
But with the faceplated internals, there was no center detents on the hubs/sliders to maintain a central position which seemed a little odd.
So if something wasnt perfect here, a fork could move slightly and maybe interfere with smooth movement of the pin when the main selector rotates.
Either that or the main selector rod itself is slightly bent.
It's a very very slight stickiness, but it's still there.
