2010 Camaro Freshly Rebuilt Twin Disk - Vibration Cause?
#1
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey guys, I have a 2010 Camaro with the 6 speed. Installed a twin disk earlier this year and just had to have it rebuilt. This clutch used a new flywheel from the clutch manufacturer.
Flywheel was re-used but not turned or re-finished (it was sent to the mfg though and they said it was fine). It did have some heat spots on it and the reason for the rebuild was excessive heat causing the clutch to fail and start slipping.
Upon receiving the rebuilt clutch everything was assembled, so I marked everything and made sure it went into the car exactly the same as it came apart. Pilot bearing only had 8000 miles on it but I went ahead and changed it anyway. I know it was seated properly. Torqued the flywheel bolts in the correct pattern and in 3 stages. Same for the pressure plate bolts. Everything went together with no issues.
Car started fine, clutch engages and disengages just fine, BUT there is now a bad vibration from about 2500 or so on up. Vibration exists with clutch engaged or disengaged and with the car sitting still in neutral or in gear, and also with the car moving in neutral or in gear. The vibration wasn't there before.
What could the culprit be? I've already contacted the clutch mfg, but just wanted to get some opinions on what it might be since its around the holiday season and I'm not sure when they will be back in the office.
And my other question is; Will it hurt to drive my car and just keep the RPM's low? This is my DD and my only other ride is a motorcycle...obviously its kind of cold for that right now!
Thanks!
Flywheel was re-used but not turned or re-finished (it was sent to the mfg though and they said it was fine). It did have some heat spots on it and the reason for the rebuild was excessive heat causing the clutch to fail and start slipping.
Upon receiving the rebuilt clutch everything was assembled, so I marked everything and made sure it went into the car exactly the same as it came apart. Pilot bearing only had 8000 miles on it but I went ahead and changed it anyway. I know it was seated properly. Torqued the flywheel bolts in the correct pattern and in 3 stages. Same for the pressure plate bolts. Everything went together with no issues.
Car started fine, clutch engages and disengages just fine, BUT there is now a bad vibration from about 2500 or so on up. Vibration exists with clutch engaged or disengaged and with the car sitting still in neutral or in gear, and also with the car moving in neutral or in gear. The vibration wasn't there before.
What could the culprit be? I've already contacted the clutch mfg, but just wanted to get some opinions on what it might be since its around the holiday season and I'm not sure when they will be back in the office.
And my other question is; Will it hurt to drive my car and just keep the RPM's low? This is my DD and my only other ride is a motorcycle...obviously its kind of cold for that right now!
Thanks!
#2
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
was there a paint mark lining up FW, floater plate & PP when the clutch was sent back to you?
sounds like a balance issue, now have to find out the "why"
odd they didn't resurface FW though..... SOP.
I had my twin rebuilt and FW was resurfaced
one possibility is you are grounding against something (exhaust, x member)...on the re-install. Check for that
sounds like a balance issue, now have to find out the "why"
odd they didn't resurface FW though..... SOP.
I had my twin rebuilt and FW was resurfaced
one possibility is you are grounding against something (exhaust, x member)...on the re-install. Check for that
#3
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
No paint mark, but I marked it all before I took it apart. I thought that on the flywheel too so that it could be trued and also so that the new disk would bed properly.
If it was grinding against something, wouldn't that be a driveshaft or axle issue? Since the vibration is exactly the same (revving engine) when the car is sitting still and when it's moving and the vibration gets worse as rpm's rise, wouldnt that rule out the DS and axles grinding.
If it was grinding against something, wouldn't that be a driveshaft or axle issue? Since the vibration is exactly the same (revving engine) when the car is sitting still and when it's moving and the vibration gets worse as rpm's rise, wouldnt that rule out the DS and axles grinding.
#4
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
by "grounding" (not grinding) I meant if there is contact from driveline to say exhaust or x-member or something that will send a vibration/noise you feel/hear.
I just had a tranny rebuilt in another car (Ford truck) and my son drove it home before I had a chance to drive it. There was a noise at about 2500 RPM....looked under truck and a skid plate was barely touching the tranny when the motor would torque and make a significant vibration. I used some washers to stand off the skid plate....I was however pissed (2800 reasons) that the shop did not do anything as they said they did road test the truck.
May be worth a check by looking under the car. Sounds like you made every effort to install the clutch right. Monday call whoever the clutch place is and discuss. You didn't mention brand. My twin is a McLeod and I found their customer service to be very good
I just had a tranny rebuilt in another car (Ford truck) and my son drove it home before I had a chance to drive it. There was a noise at about 2500 RPM....looked under truck and a skid plate was barely touching the tranny when the motor would torque and make a significant vibration. I used some washers to stand off the skid plate....I was however pissed (2800 reasons) that the shop did not do anything as they said they did road test the truck.
May be worth a check by looking under the car. Sounds like you made every effort to install the clutch right. Monday call whoever the clutch place is and discuss. You didn't mention brand. My twin is a McLeod and I found their customer service to be very good
#5
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I will give that grounding a check, but I know the exhaust isn't close enough and there's nothing else really there that would come close to touching. I will give it a look though and give the mfg a call on Monday. Just hoping I don't have to pull the trans back out
#6
TECH Fanatic
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Flywheel & complete clutch unit 'MUST' be balanced as a unit
Just because you pulled it out and put it back in the same place means squat.
Take a tyre off a rim, put a new one on in exactly the same place without balance and you get vibration.
Just because you pulled it out and put it back in the same place means squat.
Take a tyre off a rim, put a new one on in exactly the same place without balance and you get vibration.
#7
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Flywheel and clutch were both sent to the manufacturer for the rebuild. Since everything came back to me assembled, and everything appeared fresh except the flywheel, I assumed it had been balanced as a unit. A fair assumption considering the flywheel and clutch assembly was balanced when it came to me after I originally bought it 8-9 months ago.