Clutch/Trans Question
#1
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Clutch/Trans Question
I am adding nitrous to the car over winter, and the single disc mcleod I am currently running is not rated for anymore than where I am at. Its been a perfect clutch, and since I already have their flywheel, I am leaning towards the RST/RXT. Prefer the McLeod because myself and several local guys have always had good luck, and also having their flywheel with less than 4k miles on it helps too.
Facts on the car: 440+ rwhp, 11.7 @ 120 with a bad bog was the best run. ~3350-3400 pounds empty. Would see the drag strip 6-12 runs a year. Mostly a street car. Tick Master. Nitrous will be at minimum 150 shot.
Was recommended the RXT if its a track car, and to also go back to a stock type master cylinder. I would think the RST would be up to task, but want to pick the right one. Want to be able to have it hold on the street, and then hold a handful of 6k dumps at the track.
Also, any guesses on when I can expect the stock trans to let go under the nitrous?
Facts on the car: 440+ rwhp, 11.7 @ 120 with a bad bog was the best run. ~3350-3400 pounds empty. Would see the drag strip 6-12 runs a year. Mostly a street car. Tick Master. Nitrous will be at minimum 150 shot.
Was recommended the RXT if its a track car, and to also go back to a stock type master cylinder. I would think the RST would be up to task, but want to pick the right one. Want to be able to have it hold on the street, and then hold a handful of 6k dumps at the track.
Also, any guesses on when I can expect the stock trans to let go under the nitrous?
#2
hope your rear end is up to this...a twin hits hard.
ceramic puc disc will have some trade off on street manners, just part of the reality vs organic discs. McLeod said specifically to use stock hydraulics with RST/RXT so I would follow that advice. aftermarket MC with adjustable rod can easily over extend clutch if set wrong and you want a stock bore size MC
#3
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Not worried about the rearend. I have no interest in using the stock hydraulics again, because I refuse to chance the possibility of the pedal sticking to the floor again during hard driving. Its why I have the tick, its what the tick fixed, and its why I will keep the tick. If it really would be a problem to use the tick with McLeods twins, I would look elsewhere. I would prefer the clutch to last for several years (10k miles or so for me).
#4
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Idk how the tick mc crap gets spread around. Any clutch can be over extended with a tick. There is no reason to run a stock bore mc on a rst/rxt unless you cant adjust a master propperly in which case I doubt you're swapping the clutch anyway. I run one in mine and so do hundreds of others, just follow the tick adjustments and it'll be fine. I actually left mine where it was with the stock clutch then just checked it after the install and its been fine even with plenty of redline shifts and some donuts. Adjust it like the directions say and have fun