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T56 Help not going into reverse.?

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Old Apr 1, 2015 | 12:39 PM
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Exclamation T56 Help not going into reverse.?

Hey guys im new to this site and i need some help? I have a 2005 cadillac cts V with a T56. Before i get started just letting you guys know I dont know much about working on cars just the basic. The problem im having is i cant get the car to go into reverse. I could do it only if the car is not running. Also some times the gears are hard to get into. I have no grinding or problems getting into the gear its just hard. i need to apply a lot of force to get it into gear. But some times on if im driving i dont have to. Reverse on the other hand if the car is running i can engage it at all. So i thought i could of been the trasmission mount and or the flex disk and replaced both. That didnt help any. the guy said i need a new clutch. Later that day i took the car to another shop and he said i dont need one because it goes into the gears fine even 5 and 6th. Some poeple say it could be the shiftier bushings. But any help, helps Thanks !!!!
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Old Apr 1, 2015 | 12:43 PM
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also forgot the mention that my clutch engagement is right in the middle..
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Old Apr 1, 2015 | 01:32 PM
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Shifts easy when off, gets harder to shift when running?

If that is the case, it usually means clutch hydraulics. Start with bleeding all the old fluid out until it runs clear - make sure you don't run the reservoir empty or you'll get air in, and it's even worse.

Those symptoms can also mean the master cylinder is ready to be replaced
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Old Apr 1, 2015 | 01:34 PM
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Hey thank a lot ill give that a try because ill do any thing not to replace the clutch if not needed. Its pretty dark too so it could be that. But would that cause it not to go into reverse?
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Old Apr 1, 2015 | 01:41 PM
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It's more about loss of slave cylinder travel. The system depends on the fluid not compressing under pressure. If the fluid is really dark, it can compress. if there's air in there, the fluid can compress quite a bit. If the fluid compresses, the slave won't push the clutch as far as it should. This results in the clutch not being fully disengaged while trying to shift, which keeps the transmission partially under power while trying to shift. That's what makes the shifting harder.

Basically, bad fluid or air in the system will act just like a bad master cylinder, but it's easier to check that first before you start replacing parts.
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Old Apr 1, 2015 | 01:55 PM
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you been a lot of help because i just checked my reservoir and its dark as coffee so that's a bad sign. I rather spend 30-50 dollars to get that drained then replace the whole clutch for 1400 and all it was the fluid.
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 02:44 PM
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No problem. If you still have issues after flushing out everything, the next thing would be the master. Still way cheaper than the rest of the clutch. If you're not slipping the clutch, then the fluid or a new master should get you right again.
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
No problem. If you still have issues after flushing out everything, the next thing would be the master. Still way cheaper than the rest of the clutch. If you're not slipping the clutch, then the fluid or a new master should get you right again.
Completely agree on the Tick Master - That will get rid of all your shifting issues up until the clutch/slave needs replacing.
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