brian g

iTrader: (1)

Ok, installed a new clutch set now I've noticed a vibration in my steering wheel,armrest, and shifter that was not there before.
it starts at 1k rpm gets a bit less until about 1800 rpm where it gets a bit worse and stops at around 2100 rpm.
At cruising speed around 1900 rpm it is very noticeable.
At start up cold start-the engine hits about 1k rpm and the vibration is very noticeable, thing is, this vibration was noted before the clutch swap at cold start up 1k rpm, and is now a little worse- it did not carry to 2k rpm like it does after the new clutch.
The vibration occurs wether I'm in gear or not, wether the clutch is engaged or out, moving or standing still, does not vibrate at idle. Only at about 250 miles since replaced.
Question is, before I pull the trans in my driveway again, could this be a crank balancer gone bad?
BTW, this is a 1996 chevy c1500 with a 5 spd and a 350, the original clutch lasted me 19 years until the slave cyl failed.
Thanks in advance.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

yes, it could. Especially if it is RPM dependent and not speed dependent. Could also be flywheel balance unless you replaced the flywheel with the clutch. Usually, if you buy the clutch and flywheel as a kit, they are balanced.

It would also be worth checking all the normal stuff for the engine running right to make sure you don't have a slight misfire - vacuum leaks, spark plug condition, wire condition, compression check. For example, I've chased stuff before to find a partially broken spark wire that didn't completely break until I pulled it off the plug and the metal tab stuck to the plug.

brian g

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply Darth, love the sig pic BTW.
The flywheel was separate from the clutch kit, but a new piece. The thought of having them balanced crossed my mind, but I've never done it in the past, and have never had any issues. The flywheel being out of balance is my main concern.
I'll check the plug wires-just changed all the plugs and she runs with a little rough idle-normal for 5.7 vortecs I've read and experienced. Maybe she's a touch rougher than usual.

I'll try a vac leak check, don't know how, but I'm sure google will show the way ; )
I've wanted to setup for a compression check, my number 3 oil fouls the plug-but thats been ongoing for some years, fingers crossed it's an valve stem seal.
I'm hoping I can figure this out, I told my wife when my truck hits 20 yrs (next march) and when the new DI LT1 style engines have been swapped enough times, I'm going to get a 5.3 or heck, even a 4.3 (and maybe swap the nv3500 for a t56) for the old truck to keep her going for another 20 years.
I just want this faithful beast to keep on for one (or four ) more years-whatever it takes to get the LT1 engine conversions settled in.
Thanks for the info.
Cheers.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Good luck. Here's an easy vacuum leak check method. Get a spray can of starter fluid. It's ether-based, so very safe. Spray a short fast burst on your air filter so you can see and hear what it does to how the motor runs. Let the motor recover fully. Then, spray in various areas around the engine compartment. If you spray all the connections and such and the engine never stumbles, you're probably clear of a vac leak.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Personally, I wouldn't go to the flywheel until I exhausted all the easy options, but if you get to that point, it's a likely culprit.

brian g

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Vader, I was going to start with the propane method, but I will go to the starter fluid method on your advice. I'll run the starter fluid in after the MAF just in case.
I'll post results, if any.

JetMech99

iTrader: (3)

I am noticing the same thing and also worried about a possible flywheel balance issue.

Im assuming if the flywheel is out of balance it would do longterm harm to the moror?

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

It can be harsh on bearings.

josh4ku

iTrader: (10)

Was this problem ever resolved?