This weekend I plan on installing my Tick/Monster clutch package, which includes all new hydraulics and the speed bleeder. Can I just install it all dry, and then pop open the speed bleeder, add fluid to the reservoir and pump the clutch to get the fluid flowing? If not, what is the best way to do this?

 

Here is my best suggestion for doing it right and having the least number of issues down the road. This is assuming you have the speed bleeder connected to the slave and the transmission installed:

1. Install the MC, but DO NOT connect to the slave.
2. Start with the adjustment rod all the way out (longest pedal stroke) and fill the fluid reservoir - protect your fender, the fluid eats paint like crazy
3. crawl underneath and use a screwdriver to push in the check valve and gravity bleed until fluid flows
4. Have an assistant SLOWLY push in on the clutch pedal while you hold the check valve open. When your assistant gets to the floor, let the valve close. Tell assistant to hold pedal to the floor until you say OK and then SLOWLY let the pedal up.
5. Check reservoir and repeat 3 and 4 until you are positive you are not seeing any air come out with the fluid. If you're not sure, make sure you empty and fill the reservoir at least three or four times. If at any point you let the reservoir go empty, you have to start all over. Usually, it'll "burp" if there is still air in it. Effectively, this is bench bleeding the master while it is in the car.
6. Having satisfied yourself that the master is fully bled, make the adjustment rod as short as possible (this is a must to protect your slave, as the tick master can overextend the slave).
7. Connect the quick connect under the car to the slave cylinder.
8. Run the speed bleeder up into the cabin and bleed it like you did the master (crack valve, push pedal, close valve, release pedal). Make all movements slow.
9. Check the reservoir and repeat. if you let the reservoir go empty, it's all the way back to step 1.
10. You'll be easily able to see air bubbles in the speed bleeder line. Keep bleeding until you stop seeing them, and then for good measure bleed through one more reservoir full.

Now, a quick note on the mity-vac method. It will short cut the process a bit, but it does not replace doing a good bench bleed of the master cylinder. if you use the mity-vac or similar method to jump start the process, that's fine, but you should still crack that check valve and make sure no air comes out.

11. Having fully bled your hydraulics, keep the rod at its shortest stroke, push in the clutch, and start shifting gears. It'll probably be difficult, and that's normal. Gradually increase rod length (giggedy) until it shifts with very little effort.
12. Start the car, and try shifting gears. it will probably feel really notchy. Gradually increase rod length until it shifts with very little effort.
13. Road test it. You might end up making one more turn of the turnbuckle to get it right, but don't make it any longer than needed to get smooth shifting. TIghten up the locking nuts, and enjoy crisp, consistent shifting performance that you never knew the car could have.

 

Thanks Darth_V8r, that is very in-depth and informative. A couple questions for ya...

With the remote speedbleeder, you don't need to close the valve after pushing the pedal all the way down, correct? Isn't that the way a speedbleeder works? I thought it was a one-way valve that you didn't need to keep opening and closing.

Also, I have the Mityvac system that I bought to try to fix my problem (it didn't, hence the all new clutch/hydraulics). Maybe I wasn't using it right, but how can I use that to speed things up?

 

when you say "speedbleeder", I'm thinking "remote bleeder" not the same thing as the speed bleeders you can get for your brakes. The remote bleeder needs to be cracked every time and closed every time, but its easy, because you can do it in the driver's seat. the hose is a good 3' long, and it's no big deal with two wrenches and a plastic cup. The reason most of us call it a speed bleeder is that it takes 10-15 minutes and you can do it yourself as opposed to 60-90 minutes and at least one assistant.

The mity-vac is good for sucking air out of the master, so you can cut a lot of time out of the initial in-car "bench" bleeding of the master, but it does not get all the air out as well as a the method described above. There is actually a sticky on how to bleed a tick master, and it has the same basic information. Martin at Tick even chimed in specifically about the mity-vac.

 

when i did mine i did it all dry , added fluid and opened the speed bleeder and pumped and it didnt take more than ten to fifteen pumps.