mcleod adj master worth it?
mcleod adj master worth it? is the mcleod worth it?
i've got my spec stage 3 in the mail today, i ordered my upgraded slave this evening, now all i've got left is the master...i've been reading all sorts of forums and can't really find a black and white answer. Should i get the mcleod adj master and do a drill mod, or should i just get a new master from GM and do a drill mod. i've read the mcleod isn't really adjustable, it just has a bigger bore.
much help is appreciated.
i've got my spec stage 3 in the mail today, i ordered my upgraded slave this evening, now all i've got left is the master...i've been reading all sorts of forums and can't really find a black and white answer. Should i get the mcleod adj master and do a drill mod, or should i just get a new master from GM and do a drill mod. i've read the mcleod isn't really adjustable, it just has a bigger bore.
much help is appreciated.
the McLeod IS adjustable and IS a larger bore
I have a spec 3 also and first went with the stock master/drill mod. I hated it because I couldn't take that last little bit of freeplay out of the system so when the clutch got hot (radiant heat from headers/block/etc.) it would not opperate quite right.
The McLeod is a really nice piece and I like it A LOT! The only downside is because it has a larger bore, it will increase peddle pressure some (I don't find it too stiff for daily driving).
I have a spec 3 also and first went with the stock master/drill mod. I hated it because I couldn't take that last little bit of freeplay out of the system so when the clutch got hot (radiant heat from headers/block/etc.) it would not opperate quite right.
The McLeod is a really nice piece and I like it A LOT! The only downside is because it has a larger bore, it will increase peddle pressure some (I don't find it too stiff for daily driving).
Once you get it working correctly, you will love it. Some have more luck, but my luck ran out when I was putting in the new clutch. I didn't know it, but I broke the slave putting it in, which is why it would not bleed completely.
I have tried Three Mcleods in my Car.
I have a Spec stage 3 and the stock on works Great.
I did make an adjustable rod for it though.
IMO Mcleod masters SUCK!
Edited for why I say they suck.
Everyone I have put in my car, worked fine for a day to a couple of weeks at a time.
Then they finally get the Main seal inside chewed up enough that the engagement point starts to move up and down.
You never know when it will engage. Its embarrassing to stall your car at a light, when you are expecting it to engage High and it just decides on its own to engage low that time.
Heres the problem.
the whole in the cylinder that head up to the Reservour have very sharp edges.
everytime the Seal comes back up and across these holes it takes a little chunk out of the seal.
you get enough of these floating around , you start loosing seal.
Mcleod sucks!!!!!!!!
I have a Spec stage 3 and the stock on works Great.
I did make an adjustable rod for it though.
IMO Mcleod masters SUCK!
Edited for why I say they suck.
Everyone I have put in my car, worked fine for a day to a couple of weeks at a time.
Then they finally get the Main seal inside chewed up enough that the engagement point starts to move up and down.
You never know when it will engage. Its embarrassing to stall your car at a light, when you are expecting it to engage High and it just decides on its own to engage low that time.
Heres the problem.
the whole in the cylinder that head up to the Reservour have very sharp edges.
everytime the Seal comes back up and across these holes it takes a little chunk out of the seal.
you get enough of these floating around , you start loosing seal.
Mcleod sucks!!!!!!!!
Originally Posted by Bugsquawsher
I have tried Three Mcleods in my Car.
Edited for why I say they suck.
Everyone I have put in my car, worked fine for a day to a couple of weeks at a time.
Then they finally get the Main seal inside chewed up enough that the engagement point starts to move up and down.
You never know when it will engage. Its embarrassing to stall your car at a light, when you are expecting it to engage High and it just decides on its own to engage low that time.
Heres the problem.
the whole in the cylinder that head up to the Reservour have very sharp edges.
everytime the Seal comes back up and across these holes it takes a little chunk out of the seal.
you get enough of these floating around , you start loosing seal.
Mcleod sucks!!!!!!!!
Edited for why I say they suck.
Everyone I have put in my car, worked fine for a day to a couple of weeks at a time.
Then they finally get the Main seal inside chewed up enough that the engagement point starts to move up and down.
You never know when it will engage. Its embarrassing to stall your car at a light, when you are expecting it to engage High and it just decides on its own to engage low that time.
Heres the problem.
the whole in the cylinder that head up to the Reservour have very sharp edges.
everytime the Seal comes back up and across these holes it takes a little chunk out of the seal.
you get enough of these floating around , you start loosing seal.
Mcleod sucks!!!!!!!!
Originally Posted by INMY01TA
Mines been in for about two and a half years and I've never had a problem with it. Engagement is still precise and predictable. Everyone around my way uses them with no problem either. Sounds like user error.
Ok
No user Error here. I can get them to work for a couple of days to a couple of weeks.
THere has been alot in this area that sucked.
I have pictures of the last one I just took apart.
You can see the grooves Cut into the Rubber seal, and All the little rubber bits in a paper towel that I poured the contents of the master into.
If I had a place to host them I would post them .
I probably understand how the hydraulic system works alot more than most of the people you know. Not tryin to toot my own horn here.
Just want ya to know I'm not just some kid with a Camaro.
I'm 40 years old and been workin on cars since I was 14.
again not braggin , just giving you some back ground.
So that said
Some people have good luck with the masters.
I have had three Bad ones.
And the stock one works Great on the spec stage three if you do the drill mod.
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I have a 2002 with the ZO6 upgraded master and slave and just installed a spec 3i - key there is the (i) for iron serrated disc.Any way used all my stock stuff over and everything works great so far.I'm taking the car to the track to really put this clutch , salve and master to the test
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I run a McLeod single disk clutch with the improved General Motors slave and master and do not have a problem. Engagement is off the floor. With the drill mod completed, I didn't see the need to spend the extra money on a McLeod adjustable.
Originally Posted by Bugsquawsher
Ok
No user Error here. I can get them to work for a couple of days to a couple of weeks.
THere has been alot in this area that sucked.
I have pictures of the last one I just took apart.
You can see the grooves Cut into the Rubber seal, and All the little rubber bits in a paper towel that I poured the contents of the master into.
If I had a place to host them I would post them .
I probably understand how the hydraulic system works alot more than most of the people you know. Not tryin to toot my own horn here.
Just want ya to know I'm not just some kid with a Camaro.
I'm 40 years old and been workin on cars since I was 14.
again not braggin , just giving you some back ground.
So that said
Some people have good luck with the masters.
I have had three Bad ones.
And the stock one works Great on the spec stage three if you do the drill mod.
No user Error here. I can get them to work for a couple of days to a couple of weeks.
THere has been alot in this area that sucked.
I have pictures of the last one I just took apart.
You can see the grooves Cut into the Rubber seal, and All the little rubber bits in a paper towel that I poured the contents of the master into.
If I had a place to host them I would post them .
I probably understand how the hydraulic system works alot more than most of the people you know. Not tryin to toot my own horn here.
Just want ya to know I'm not just some kid with a Camaro.
I'm 40 years old and been workin on cars since I was 14.
again not braggin , just giving you some back ground.
So that said
Some people have good luck with the masters.
I have had three Bad ones.
And the stock one works Great on the spec stage three if you do the drill mod.
I don't have any trouble gettin them to work.
It's keepin them working.
I bench bleed till the pedal is Rock hard.
Intall it , And Bleed out the Slave,
After an amount of time, anywhere from a day to a couple of weeks.
the Engagement point starts to roam.
But thats niether here nor there.
I think the original Question was something like
Is the Mcleod worth the $$$ on a spec Stage 3
My answer.
NO!
THe stock one will work just fine on it.
It's keepin them working.
I bench bleed till the pedal is Rock hard.
Intall it , And Bleed out the Slave,
After an amount of time, anywhere from a day to a couple of weeks.
the Engagement point starts to roam.
But thats niether here nor there.
I think the original Question was something like
Is the Mcleod worth the $$$ on a spec Stage 3
My answer.
NO!
THe stock one will work just fine on it.
That is an impossible question to answer. I like the McLoed because it has a bigger bore and reduces pedal travel for faster shifting. However, pedal effort of course goes up, and if you have an aftermarket clutch, it can get to be too much for some guys. I know of one guy with a custom pressure plate that couldn't get enough travel out of the stock cylinder to get the clutch to release. Pretty much YMMV.
I had trouble with my McLoed not holding pedal position too. It would sometimes drift down but always cam back to the top if I pumped or even lifted the pedal with a toe. Now that I replaced the '00 slave with the newer style, that has all gone away. I haven't a clue why it now works, but I won't complain
I had trouble with my McLoed not holding pedal position too. It would sometimes drift down but always cam back to the top if I pumped or even lifted the pedal with a toe. Now that I replaced the '00 slave with the newer style, that has all gone away. I haven't a clue why it now works, but I won't complain
I like mine now that i got one that works. first one had a faulty seal in it and i couldnt get it to hold pressure. had it replaced now it works fine since i put it in. same release point every time.
JR
JR
My McLeod master has been on the car since March w/ no problems. I'm running an '01 slave, plain Castrol brake fluid, and I beat the snot out of it on road course events at Indy Raceway Park and Pocono.
I didn't bench bleed it, just swapped it onto the '01 hydraulics and installed on the car. Bleeding was using the Mity-Vac process I found here, several iterations of actuating the master under vacuum and letting it pull fluid in. When I had all the air out of the master, I bled the slave via the bleeder valve.
I learned what I know about hydraulics at OMC Master Tech school in 1987, Johnson and Evinrude outboards use hydraulic power trim/tilt and it's a real bear to bleed after assembly.
The McLeod has very consistent engage/disengage heights thus far, so I'm happy...but I kept my '01 master just in case.
I didn't bench bleed it, just swapped it onto the '01 hydraulics and installed on the car. Bleeding was using the Mity-Vac process I found here, several iterations of actuating the master under vacuum and letting it pull fluid in. When I had all the air out of the master, I bled the slave via the bleeder valve.
I learned what I know about hydraulics at OMC Master Tech school in 1987, Johnson and Evinrude outboards use hydraulic power trim/tilt and it's a real bear to bleed after assembly.
The McLeod has very consistent engage/disengage heights thus far, so I'm happy...but I kept my '01 master just in case.
