Issue with Tick Level 3 T56 - Any ideas?
#1
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I'm looking for some insight on what could have possibly gone wrong with my Tick Level 3 T56 rebuild. I have maybe 5k on the trans and track rental once a year since this was installed back in 2012. This car is primary street driven. The trans has worked perfectly since it's been in the car. Unfortunately in the past year, I've had my engine out a couple times (long story) but after this last rodeo, something has gone wrong in the trans.
After a successful dyno tuning session, minimal street driving etc, I decided to take it for its big maiden voyage on the highway. The trans was shifting smoothly with no issues. I put her into 3rd gear and rolled into WOT. I made an attempt for a quick shift (not a power shift) into 4th and it wouldn't go into gear. I heard the wonderful grinding noise while attempting to get it into gear. I attempted to select another gear but no luck. I pulled to the side of the road and the engine stalled. Something had locked up.
I waited a few moments and was finally able to get the shifter into all 6 gears with the engine off. I started the car, put it into gear and got the car home.
Here are the issues:
- It will grind every time on the 3-4 shift (it will go in), at any speed. It will not grind from a dead stop. 1-2 and 5-6 feel a little notchy but this could be in my head.
- I am NOT able to downshift at any speed into 2nd or 4th. From a stop, I can get the trans into those gears.
What I have checked/know:
- While the clutch felt normal, I double checked to make sure I was getting the appropriate disengagement. This was fine.
- I replaced the slave since I had a new USA made unit on the shelf. One of those, might as well type of things even though the existing was working fine. Yes, it was bled properly. (LT1 hydraulics, clutch fork nonsense, etc btw)
- Fluid was checked. It is where it should be and the color is still nice and red. Fluid has less than 20 miles on it easy.
- Shifter has not changed since the trans has been in the car originally, McLeod ST was refreshed before the engine went in this time. New pilot bearing installed just the same as before.
I called Tick and unfortunately, I am well out of the 1 year warranty. They had a few ideas of what it could be but I would like some other opinions before I decide what to do. I'm obviously not happy about the whole situation considering I finally got the engine where it needed to be but I guess that's the non-stock life eh?
After a successful dyno tuning session, minimal street driving etc, I decided to take it for its big maiden voyage on the highway. The trans was shifting smoothly with no issues. I put her into 3rd gear and rolled into WOT. I made an attempt for a quick shift (not a power shift) into 4th and it wouldn't go into gear. I heard the wonderful grinding noise while attempting to get it into gear. I attempted to select another gear but no luck. I pulled to the side of the road and the engine stalled. Something had locked up.
I waited a few moments and was finally able to get the shifter into all 6 gears with the engine off. I started the car, put it into gear and got the car home.
Here are the issues:
- It will grind every time on the 3-4 shift (it will go in), at any speed. It will not grind from a dead stop. 1-2 and 5-6 feel a little notchy but this could be in my head.
- I am NOT able to downshift at any speed into 2nd or 4th. From a stop, I can get the trans into those gears.
What I have checked/know:
- While the clutch felt normal, I double checked to make sure I was getting the appropriate disengagement. This was fine.
- I replaced the slave since I had a new USA made unit on the shelf. One of those, might as well type of things even though the existing was working fine. Yes, it was bled properly. (LT1 hydraulics, clutch fork nonsense, etc btw)
- Fluid was checked. It is where it should be and the color is still nice and red. Fluid has less than 20 miles on it easy.
- Shifter has not changed since the trans has been in the car originally, McLeod ST was refreshed before the engine went in this time. New pilot bearing installed just the same as before.
I called Tick and unfortunately, I am well out of the 1 year warranty. They had a few ideas of what it could be but I would like some other opinions before I decide what to do. I'm obviously not happy about the whole situation considering I finally got the engine where it needed to be but I guess that's the non-stock life eh?
#4
12 Second Club
iTrader: (7)
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Make sure the shifter cup didn't fall out of the rail the last time you had the shifter off. I have to remove my shifter when I remove the Trans. Does the shifter stick have a lot of free play?
I know you said the cutch is disengaging, how far off the floor is it engaging? LT1 clutch hydraulics are hard to bleed if a component is replaced, you may have air in the sys. Rockauto sells complete pre-bled master/slave setups for 100 bucks.
Sure sounds like one of those two issues to me since it started after recent work.
I know you said the cutch is disengaging, how far off the floor is it engaging? LT1 clutch hydraulics are hard to bleed if a component is replaced, you may have air in the sys. Rockauto sells complete pre-bled master/slave setups for 100 bucks.
Sure sounds like one of those two issues to me since it started after recent work.
#6
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Make sure the shifter cup didn't fall out of the rail the last time you had the shifter off. I have to remove my shifter when I remove the Trans. Does the shifter stick have a lot of free play?
I know you said the cutch is disengaging, how far off the floor is it engaging? LT1 clutch hydraulics are hard to bleed if a component is replaced, you may have air in the sys. Rockauto sells complete pre-bled master/slave setups for 100 bucks.
Sure sounds like one of those two issues to me since it started after recent work.
I know you said the cutch is disengaging, how far off the floor is it engaging? LT1 clutch hydraulics are hard to bleed if a component is replaced, you may have air in the sys. Rockauto sells complete pre-bled master/slave setups for 100 bucks.
Sure sounds like one of those two issues to me since it started after recent work.