Unknown springs during tick mc install
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Unknown springs during tick mc install
Can anyone tell me where these go? They fell out of the area under the steering wheel after I removed the pin that held in the stock clutch master. I believe the larger one doesn't need reinstalled for the tick unit but I'm having trouble figuring out where the other one goes.
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One of those is for the clutch pedal return. That should tell you how bad the stock hydraulics are that they needed a return helper spring. It should be removed during install of tick master anyway. Not sure about the other. At first I thought they were two halves of the same spring.
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One of those is for the clutch pedal return. That should tell you how bad the stock hydraulics are that they needed a return helper spring. It should be removed during install of tick master anyway. Not sure about the other. At first I thought they were two halves of the same spring.
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Hmmm...not sure about the smaller piece, however the other is the clutch return spring and you'll want that out of there anyway if you're running a Tick MC.
I installed a Tick MC on my car a couple months ago and still have the same spring sitting in my glove compartment.
I installed a Tick MC on my car a couple months ago and still have the same spring sitting in my glove compartment.
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No worries - because the Tick instructions tell you to remove the thing. IMO - Getting rid of the spring is worth the price of the Tick by itself. I went through two of those springs on my stock M/C (at $50 a pop from the dealer) before I converted to the Tick. BTW - Getting a new spring in there is a TOTAL PITA.
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Your picture shows that your spring broke in to three pieces. (There is that central barrel that connects right above the shank of the pedal and then two fingers off that center winding that connect to bushings on either side of the pedal assembly. Three attachment points in all.) You just have two of those three pieces. The third could be under a floor mat or still dangling from one of the white bushings on the pedal assembly. (Way back, high up, behind the dash.)
No worries - because the Tick instructions tell you to remove the thing. IMO - Getting rid of the spring is worth the price of the Tick by itself. I went through two of those springs on my stock M/C (at $50 a pop from the dealer) before I converted to the Tick. BTW - Getting a new spring in there is a TOTAL PITA.
No worries - because the Tick instructions tell you to remove the thing. IMO - Getting rid of the spring is worth the price of the Tick by itself. I went through two of those springs on my stock M/C (at $50 a pop from the dealer) before I converted to the Tick. BTW - Getting a new spring in there is a TOTAL PITA.
For all of you who installed the tick unit, how far did you adjust the cruise control sensor? I didn't want to adjust the pedal too far out because the instructions say you don't want it pushing too much fluid, but I want it to still activate the cruise control sensor. Mine is set all the way down but my clutch pedal only is pushing the sensor about halfway in. I'm not sure if it'll still activate the sensor or not because I haven't had time to go test it on an open road yet. I'm just paranoid of adjusting the pedal too far out and causing problems like stated in the instructions. Right now my clutch pedal is slightly lower than the brake pedal.
I forgot where it was compared to the brake pedal with the stock cylinder installed.
Last edited by dabest09; 07-13-2015 at 02:52 PM.
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Well, hopefully you aren't the OCD type (like me) who will stay up all night wondering about where the third piece is. BTW - I'll bet its still dangling from one of the side bushings.
When you find the missing piece, can you please post back? I'm not going to sleep well until that happens...
You should back off the sensor first and adjust it to your new pedal position the very last thing. Just back it way off, adjust your pedal to the position it should be in, (perhaps others can weigh in here about that) and then adjust the sensor back in to the pedal to the point where the plunger is fully depressed but the pedal isn't touching the sensor housing. (just a hair away)
When you find the missing piece, can you please post back? I'm not going to sleep well until that happens...
You should back off the sensor first and adjust it to your new pedal position the very last thing. Just back it way off, adjust your pedal to the position it should be in, (perhaps others can weigh in here about that) and then adjust the sensor back in to the pedal to the point where the plunger is fully depressed but the pedal isn't touching the sensor housing. (just a hair away)
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To set the pedal, thread it all the way in so the pedal is as low as possible. Then adjust it out bit by bit until you can smoothly shift all gears with the engine off. Then start the engine. Should shift but feel notchy. Adjust out until it shifts smooth. Then lock in the nuts and drive it. You'll probably need another half to full turn to shift smooth driving. Lock it in and enjoy creamy smooth shifting goodness.
You sneak up on it like that to avoid blowing out the slave. You'll typically be at or slightly below the brake pedal. Engagement will be near the top of stroke.
You sneak up on it like that to avoid blowing out the slave. You'll typically be at or slightly below the brake pedal. Engagement will be near the top of stroke.
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Well, hopefully you aren't the OCD type (like me) who will stay up all night wondering about where the third piece is. BTW - I'll bet its still dangling from one of the side bushings.
When you find the missing piece, can you please post back? I'm not going to sleep well until that happens...
You should back off the sensor first and adjust it to your new pedal position the very last thing. Just back it way off, adjust your pedal to the position it should be in, (perhaps others can weigh in here about that) and then adjust the sensor back in to the pedal to the point where the plunger is fully depressed but the pedal isn't touching the sensor housing. (just a hair away)
When you find the missing piece, can you please post back? I'm not going to sleep well until that happens...
You should back off the sensor first and adjust it to your new pedal position the very last thing. Just back it way off, adjust your pedal to the position it should be in, (perhaps others can weigh in here about that) and then adjust the sensor back in to the pedal to the point where the plunger is fully depressed but the pedal isn't touching the sensor housing. (just a hair away)
I'll look for that missing piece when I test out the cruise control.
I adjusted the pedal first and it felt great, and passed the rev test that Tick recommended and I can shift smoothly through all gears now. (Well as smooth as the T56 will allow) I adjusted the sensor all the way as far as it would go and it is halfway depressed. Still have to go test to see if the cruise control will work like this.
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To set the pedal, thread it all the way in so the pedal is as low as possible. Then adjust it out bit by bit until you can smoothly shift all gears with the engine off. Then start the engine. Should shift but feel notchy. Adjust out until it shifts smooth. Then lock in the nuts and drive it. You'll probably need another half to full turn to shift smooth driving. Lock it in and enjoy creamy smooth shifting goodness.
You sneak up on it like that to avoid blowing out the slave. You'll typically be at or slightly below the brake pedal. Engagement will be near the top of stroke.
You sneak up on it like that to avoid blowing out the slave. You'll typically be at or slightly below the brake pedal. Engagement will be near the top of stroke.
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you'll be OK with that pedal height. The cruise on mine works OK, and I never adjusted the sensor. Every once in a while on a hard bump, it will kill the cruise