About to install LS7 Clutch with Tick MC
08-25-2015, 09:32 PM
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About to install LS7 Clutch with Tick MC I'm about to install the complete kit in my '99 WS6. Tick MC, new slave, bearing, and the LS7 clutch assembly. I've read about issues with people putting in a Tick MC after breaking in the LS7 clutch with a stock master, due to the self-adjusting pressure plate. I'm sure breaking one in with the Tick would solve this issue. However, what I'm concerned about is, from my understanding of it, the tick mc has the pedal much lower than the stock mc. Seems when people break one in on a stock master, the clutch engages about half way up on the pedal. Since the Tick has a much shorter pedal travel, how will the clutch adjust to this? Will this result in a 1/4" or less window on the pedal between fully disengaged to fully engaged?
This is a totally street driven car, so I would like it to be somewhat comfortable and not a total PITA to drive.
This is a totally street driven car, so I would like it to be somewhat comfortable and not a total PITA to drive.
08-26-2015, 01:08 AM
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The tick master comes in two varieties - 3/4 bore and 7/8 bore. I prefer the 7/8 bore with the smaller engagement window, because I find it is extremely predictable and consistent.
When you install a tick master, the pedal height is indeed wherever you want it, but it is also possible to overstroke the slave. So, here is what worked for my car:
1. make sure you install a GM slave, not a knock off. Make sure you measure for a slave shim. Missing but needed shims can really cause a lot of strange clutch symptoms - mostly incomplete release of the clutch.
2. bench bleed the master in the car by separating the clutch line and using a screwdriver to open the check valve while assistant does the clutch stuff for you. This is just like bleeding brakes. To really make sure you get the air out, run the longest pedal stroke you can during bench bleed.
3. About every third pedal stroke, check the master cylinder reservoir. Run about three reservoirs full through the master and then hook the line up to the slave.
4. bleed through the slave as per normal procedures.
5. start with the pedal as low as possible and the engine off. Adjust the pedal out until you can shift into all gears easily.
6. start the engine, and adjust the pedal out until you can easily shift into all gears at idle.
7. road test. you will likely move the pedal up another half to full turn of the adjuster to make high rpm shifting smooth.
8. lock everything in place. If you adjust the pedal up tooo high, you risk blowing the seals out of the slave - especially if you have the 7/8" bore variety of the tick master.
When you install a tick master, the pedal height is indeed wherever you want it, but it is also possible to overstroke the slave. So, here is what worked for my car:
1. make sure you install a GM slave, not a knock off. Make sure you measure for a slave shim. Missing but needed shims can really cause a lot of strange clutch symptoms - mostly incomplete release of the clutch.
2. bench bleed the master in the car by separating the clutch line and using a screwdriver to open the check valve while assistant does the clutch stuff for you. This is just like bleeding brakes. To really make sure you get the air out, run the longest pedal stroke you can during bench bleed.
3. About every third pedal stroke, check the master cylinder reservoir. Run about three reservoirs full through the master and then hook the line up to the slave.
4. bleed through the slave as per normal procedures.
5. start with the pedal as low as possible and the engine off. Adjust the pedal out until you can shift into all gears easily.
6. start the engine, and adjust the pedal out until you can easily shift into all gears at idle.
7. road test. you will likely move the pedal up another half to full turn of the adjuster to make high rpm shifting smooth.
8. lock everything in place. If you adjust the pedal up tooo high, you risk blowing the seals out of the slave - especially if you have the 7/8" bore variety of the tick master.