Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

Bad master or slave or....?

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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 09:45 AM
  #21  
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From: Little Austin
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Have you done this:

In order to figure out what is going on, do the following test. You will need two people for this. Jack up the car and get under it. All this is to be done with the engine off, obviously. Put the transmission in 4th gear and then grab hold of the driveshaft and put rotating force on it. As you do that, have your helper start to press down on the clutch pedal. At some point you will be able to start turning the driveshaft by hand. Note the position of the pedal when that happens. If the pedal is all the way down then the bearing is not releasing the clutch fully. If, however, the pedal is only half way down, then you can have the helper press the pedal more and you will feel the driveshaft is getting hard to turn again, or you might not be able to at all. This indicates that the bearing is over extending and the clutch is engaging again. This obviously cases shifting problems and it's also not good for the thrust bearing.

Andrew
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 04:13 PM
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Kinda related, what does it mean when you push your clutch in, shift into first, and the car moves forward? Something just died in my C5 and it was doing that, I was thinking maybe the master wasn't pushed in enough and needed to be extended out, but then I couldn't start the car because it was missing the ignition switch.
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 04:41 PM
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From: Little Austin
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Originally Posted by whatsa347
Kinda related, what does it mean when you push your clutch in, shift into first, and the car moves forward? Something just died in my C5 and it was doing that, I was thinking maybe the master wasn't pushed in enough and needed to be extended out, but then I couldn't start the car because it was missing the ignition switch.
If the clutch is pushed in and with the car in gear it wants to move, it means that the clutch is no fully disengaging. It should also be hard to get into gear if the engine is running.

The cause can be either MC or slave related.

Andrew
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by whatsa347
Kinda related, what does it mean when you push your clutch in, shift into first, and the car moves forward? Something just died in my C5 and it was doing that, I was thinking maybe the master wasn't pushed in enough and needed to be extended out, but then I couldn't start the car because it was missing the ignition switch.
This is sounding more and more like Midnight02's issue. He adjusted the master all the way in and all the way out and could never get the thing to just go into gear all the way. We all thought hydraulics, and it turned out he had a bad friction disc.

To inspect the slave, you'll have to pull the tranny anyway. I know your clutch is new. So was his. PM him about it and compare symptoms. You're almost repeating his posts.
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 05:44 PM
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Here is the thread https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...diagnosis.html
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 07:45 PM
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Thanks Darth, it won't even go into gear anymore,especially when the wheel is turned, it's going to my guy on Friday to be looked at. It was grinding and squeeling when trying to give it gas and drive. Either way I'm kind of done with trans-axles and stuff, pain in the *** when stuff goes wrong. Sorry for the thread hijack.
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 11:56 PM
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i havent got to completely do that test yet. like i said i kinda stepped away form it. might go back to messing with it this coming weekend depending if i have someone to help me.

question for you guys. seeign as my measurements seem to have been dead on, do you guys think adding a shim to the slave would help or hurt?

just wondering cause it seems like its bled like crazy but jsut not pushing the TOB far enough. although first im goin to at least change the master. be nice if that fixes it.
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 08:20 AM
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From: Little Austin
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Good luck.

Andrew
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Old Nov 14, 2015 | 01:02 PM
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ok so spoke to a couple buddies and told them my situation. they asked me if i torqued the pressure plate down to spec. at the time i did not have a torque wrench so i jsut tightened them til i thought it was good. then my buddy says that most likely your problem. said he pulled his trans 7 times in one day fighting almost the same issue.

so from what i searched final torque spec is 52ftlbs? is there a sequence or anything i should do?
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Old Nov 14, 2015 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Swapper
ok so spoke to a couple buddies and told them my situation. they asked me if i torqued the pressure plate down to spec. at the time i did not have a torque wrench so i jsut tightened them til i thought it was good. then my buddy says that most likely your problem. said he pulled his trans 7 times in one day fighting almost the same issue. so from what i searched final torque spec is 52ftlbs? is there a sequence or anything i should do?
general star pattern like you're changing your tire. I have also seen on rare occasions the flywheel bolts interfering with friction disc movement.
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Old Nov 14, 2015 | 08:00 PM
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ok so pulled the trans, bolts were pretty tight so backed them off and torqued them to 52 ft lbs. checked the bolts to see if they were interfering cause i did read that somewhere. decided to put a thin shim behind the slave. installed the speed bleeder. re-installed everything but need to hook the pedal back up to the master. got dark and have no drop lights at the moment. so ill continue tomorrow. hopefully though its fixed.
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