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Guys I'm reassembling my first T56 and I need a little help in how this all goes together. Does this appear right? If not pictures are very much appreciated and as always so is advice.
You're on your way. Looks like you had trial run 1, maybe 2.
You should invest in a new iron 3-4 shift fork.
Your 3-4 synchro is in 4th gear. Assuming your 3-4 blocker rings are in the right place relative to the keys, you can hold the mainshaft down / in place and pry up on the 3-4 shift fork and put it back in neutral.
At that point, the shift interlock pin selector hub will have the pin in the middle of the shift interlock slider "pac-man" mouth instead of above it.
Set a stopping piece under the 3-4 fork so it doesn't shift into 4th again upon lowering the main case. Best is something with a handle sticking out so you can't forget it!
You're on your way. Looks like you had trial run 1, maybe 2.
You should invest in a new iron 3-4 shift fork.
Your 3-4 synchro is in 4th gear. Assuming your 3-4 blocker rings are in the right place relative to the keys, you can hold the mainshaft down / in place and pry up on the 3-4 shift fork and put it back in neutral.
At that point, the shift interlock pin selector hub will have the pin in the middle of the shift interlock slider "pac-man" mouth instead of above it.
Set a stopping piece under the 3-4 fork so it doesn't shift into 4th again upon lowering the main case. Best is something with a handle sticking out so you can't forget it!
OK so I figured out how the forks and rails align but everytime i put the main case on the 5/6 reverse rail drops down farther in the front plate. I stumbled on the place something under the 3/4 fork earlier which is how I noticed the other rail sliding down.
When it slides down it slips the 1/2 synchro down into 2 I believe it would be. Is there a trick to this?
Also what's the best way to slip the guide bolts in?
I know I should've invested in some upgrades while in there, but I was planning on doing this and I really don't have the spare change lying around. Maybe later if this al work out.
The shift interlock pin can be lined up with the 3-4 fork link.
That's so the 1-2 doesn't shift.
Then the piece you have holding the 3-4 fork from moving keeps that from moving and you're good.
If you don't bang against the 5-6/R rails, they will stay in place well enough until:
Once you've set the case low enough, remove your 3-4 blocking piece, lower the case, and thread the guide bolt in so the 5-6/R rails are retained.
Then, you can use the 5-6/R rails to lift up on the interlock pac-man and the other shift guide bolt can be threaded in.
The shift interlock pin can be lined up with the 3-4 fork link.
That's so the 1-2 doesn't shift.
Then the piece you have holding the 3-4 fork from moving keeps that from moving and you're good.
If you don't bang against the 5-6/R rails, they will stay in place well enough until:
Once you've set the case low enough, remove your 3-4 blocking piece, lower the case, and thread the guide bolt in so the 5-6/R rails are retained.
Then, you can use the 5-6/R rails to lift up on the interlock pac-man and the other shift guide bolt can be threaded in.
Dude I love ya. My tranny is back together shifts fine, spins fine. I'm not sure I would've gotten the shift rails back together right so easily without your help. I if you're ever in central IL hit me up I buy you a beer or something.
03-06-2016, 12:29 PM
Shift rail confusion 
