Tick Master installed Adjustment question





This pic is just for attention and to remind everyone why we go through the headaches

Last edited by kissmy99ss; Mar 31, 2016 at 08:11 AM.
Hope you get that green goodness stuffed back in there soon! I know I beat the BE-JEEZUS out of mine (stage 2) and it LOVED it!
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Is was pushing the diaphragm a hell of a lot further than it should, this bent the diaphragm and caused it to not release correctly on the fuclrum.
It left here releasing at .249" of travel, it came back releasing at over .350" of travel, that's entirely too much.
We swapped a new pressure plate and all is perfect, releasing at .250" and the stack height is a dead nuts 3" which is also dang near perfect.
When looking at the facts here, the clutch install went fine, the lack of knowledge with adjusting the master cylinder is what caused all the headaches. So hopefully with printed instructions and I highlighted Tick's phone number, the install will go a bit smoother and as it should. In any event the shop needs to take baby steps and start with the adjustable rod at or shorter than stock length. Start motor, push clutch in, put in gear if they can and if not adjust in 1/2 turn increments until they can get the car in gear with engine running, rear wheels off the ground. With engine running, car in gear, clutch depressed fully the rear wheels should not turn. Even if the car shifts into gear it may be necessary to adjust rod a turn or two to get FULL disengagement
good the shop is covering the $ damages...
The tick master is larger bore vs stock, which is why the stroke is shorter. The engagement window will be narrower as well, but extremely consistent - as in it will be in the exact same spot every time
When looking at the facts here, the clutch install went fine, the lack of knowledge with adjusting the master cylinder is what caused all the headaches. So hopefully with printed instructions and I highlighted Tick's phone number, the install will go a bit smoother and as it should.









