Tick Master installed Adjustment question
03-19-2016, 09:16 AM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Panama City Beach, Florida
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tick Master installed Adjustment question I just had my monster clutch and tick master installed and it feels really good, honestly I have no complaints, the only thing that is bugging me is the pedal height, my stock clutch pedal height was even with the brake pedal, but with the new setup my clutch pedal is a good 2 inches higher than the brake pedal, is this how it is supposed to be? from reading the instructions on tick's website, and reading all the threads I could find, this seems not right. here are a few pics, hopefully it will help. the clutch starts to engage probably after around 1.5" of travel, and about half way down it is full engaged, now on the way up it starts to disengage around 1.5"- 2" off the floor, then is fully disengaged around 3/4 of the way up. I can learn to deal with that, but the pedal height might be a little hard to get used to as its a daily driven car, and quite frankly, sucks to try and drive in creep crawl traffic. Any thoughts or help would be greatly appreciated guys, thanks !
03-19-2016, 09:41 AM
#2
TECH Senior Member
I just had my monster clutch and tick master installed and it feels really good, honestly I have no complaints, the only thing that is bugging me is the pedal height, my stock clutch pedal height was even with the brake pedal, but with the new setup my clutch pedal is a good 2 inches higher than the brake pedal, is this how it is supposed to be? from reading the instructions on tick's website, and reading all the threads I could find, this seems not right. here are a few pics, hopefully it will help. the clutch starts to engage probably after around 1.5" of travel, and about half way down it is full engaged, now on the way up it starts to disengage around 1.5"- 2" off the floor, then is fully disengaged around 3/4 of the way up. I can learn to deal with that, but the pedal height might be a little hard to get used to as its a daily driven car, and quite frankly, sucks to try and drive in creep crawl traffic. Any thoughts or help would be greatly appreciated guys, thanks !
Next you are supposed to stop adjusting the peddle when the clutch is fully engaged, if you keep going past that point you could cause damage.
03-19-2016, 09:50 AM
#3
Launching!
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Spring TX
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah, that sits considerably higher than mine. Mine sits probably an .5"-.75" lower than the break pedal. Each set up will be a bit different but that seems high to me.
03-19-2016, 10:00 AM
#4
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Panama City Beach, Florida
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is how it came back to me yesterday, I have not adjusted it at all yet, so if I just screw this in to where the clutch pedal is even with the brake im assuming this will be fine?
03-19-2016, 10:24 AM
#5
Launching!
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Spring TX
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would just follow Tick's directions. Adjust it all the way down and slowly adjust it up until you are getting a clean engagement/disengagement. I had to tinker with mine some but I finally got it just right. I don't have the directions in front of me but I just followed them step by step.
03-19-2016, 10:36 AM
#6
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Panama City Beach, Florida
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
okay thanks Mike, I'll see What I can do, I'm no mechanic by any means, so its hard for me to picture in my head the sequence of events that take place when pressing your clutch in, Hopefully I'll get it adjusted properly at some point.
03-19-2016, 10:52 AM
#7
Launching!
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Spring TX
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do you have the directions from Tick? If you don't do this:
1. Adjust it all the way back down
2. Adjust it back up with the turnbuckle in 1-2 turn increments
3. Between adjustments start the car in neutral and attempt to put the car in 1st gear (don't force it if it doesnt want to go in)
4. Once it is going in smoothly from neutral start driving it and check for release at progressively higher revs
5. Finely adjust it from this point until it feels right
Do that and you should be fine. You will "feel" when it is right. As said before it can damage the pressure plate if it too high. Just take your time and you will get it. Generally speaking the pedal should be shorter and firmer than with the factory MC. Also make sure the shop removed the spring on the clutch pedal. That may cause issues as well. Its supposed to come out but it seams like every time I read a thread where a shop installed the MC the spring was left in.
1. Adjust it all the way back down
2. Adjust it back up with the turnbuckle in 1-2 turn increments
3. Between adjustments start the car in neutral and attempt to put the car in 1st gear (don't force it if it doesnt want to go in)
4. Once it is going in smoothly from neutral start driving it and check for release at progressively higher revs
5. Finely adjust it from this point until it feels right
Do that and you should be fine. You will "feel" when it is right. As said before it can damage the pressure plate if it too high. Just take your time and you will get it. Generally speaking the pedal should be shorter and firmer than with the factory MC. Also make sure the shop removed the spring on the clutch pedal. That may cause issues as well. Its supposed to come out but it seams like every time I read a thread where a shop installed the MC the spring was left in.
Trending Topics
03-19-2016, 11:50 AM
#8
TECH Senior Member
Do you have the directions from Tick? If you don't do this:
1. Adjust it all the way back down
2. Adjust it back up with the turnbuckle in 1-2 turn increments
3. Between adjustments start the car in neutral and attempt to put the car in 1st gear (don't force it if it doesnt want to go in)
4. Once it is going in smoothly from neutral start driving it and check for release at progressively higher revs
5. Finely adjust it from this point until it feels right
Do that and you should be fine. You will "feel" when it is right. As said before it can damage the pressure plate if it too high. Just take your time and you will get it. Generally speaking the pedal should be shorter and firmer than with the factory MC. Also make sure the shop removed the spring on the clutch pedal. That may cause issues as well. Its supposed to come out but it seams like every time I read a thread where a shop installed the MC the spring was left in.
1. Adjust it all the way back down
2. Adjust it back up with the turnbuckle in 1-2 turn increments
3. Between adjustments start the car in neutral and attempt to put the car in 1st gear (don't force it if it doesnt want to go in)
4. Once it is going in smoothly from neutral start driving it and check for release at progressively higher revs
5. Finely adjust it from this point until it feels right
Do that and you should be fine. You will "feel" when it is right. As said before it can damage the pressure plate if it too high. Just take your time and you will get it. Generally speaking the pedal should be shorter and firmer than with the factory MC. Also make sure the shop removed the spring on the clutch pedal. That may cause issues as well. Its supposed to come out but it seams like every time I read a thread where a shop installed the MC the spring was left in.
03-19-2016, 12:45 PM
#9
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Panama City Beach, Florida
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I read that the spring can actually cause the pedal to hang up when its used with the tick MC. Seems logical but again, I'm no mechanic by any means
03-19-2016, 12:49 PM
#10
Launching!
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Spring TX
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tick Master installed Adjustment question https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...questions.html
See post #9. Pretty much sums it up. I couldn't say it any better.
03-19-2016, 01:53 PM
#11
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Panama City Beach, Florida
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay update time...I took the dash pieces off to access the master, sure enough they did not remove the clutch pedal spring, so I took that off, then I adjusted the master down then backed it off slowly in about 3 steps, test driving it on all 3 settings. end result is the clutch pedal is flush with my brake pedal, and feels amazing! man that Tick Master and Monster clutch combo doesn't **** around ! SOOOO HAPPY ! Thanks everyone for you help, this was seriously easy to do !
03-19-2016, 02:34 PM
#14
Launching!
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Spring TX
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay update time...I took the dash pieces off to access the master, sure enough they did not remove the clutch pedal spring, so I took that off, then I adjusted the master down then backed it off slowly in about 3 steps, test driving it on all 3 settings. end result is the clutch pedal is flush with my brake pedal, and feels amazing! man that Tick Master and Monster clutch combo doesn't **** around ! SOOOO HAPPY ! Thanks everyone for you help, this was seriously easy to do !
03-22-2016, 06:40 PM
#15
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Panama City Beach, Florida
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
UPDATE* Got stranded in the car today on my way home from work, the thing just decided to not go into any gear whatsoever, funny thing is, when the car is shut off, it will slide into every gear except reverse. I'm thinking my problem lies with the master Cylinder and the hydraulics...it has drove great for the past 3 days now, but I have noticed it has slowly but progressively gotten harder and harder to slide into gears during shifts. any opinions?
03-23-2016, 10:07 AM
#16
Does pumping the pedal help?
Originally mine was adjusted and JUST below the brake pedal, but I didn't like it, felt a bit more "notchy" to me, and brought it back up to the brake pedal height. Never had an issue since.
You're positive ALL the air is out? Even pumping just the little tip-top first 1/4" of travel?
Originally mine was adjusted and JUST below the brake pedal, but I didn't like it, felt a bit more "notchy" to me, and brought it back up to the brake pedal height. Never had an issue since.
You're positive ALL the air is out? Even pumping just the little tip-top first 1/4" of travel?
03-23-2016, 11:10 AM
#17
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Panama City Beach, Florida
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
pumping it did not help, I adjusted the pedal back out a bit higher than the brake because as you said the pedal was really touchy which for DD just was not my preference. Do you have to bleed the system again after each time you adjust for pedal height? I would assume no? the car right now is back at the shop who did the install, they are going to re-bleed the system
03-23-2016, 11:17 AM
#18
No you don't have to bleed it again. I just know that very 1st 1/4" or so gets overlooked by a lot of folks. The pedal should be FIRM from the very second you put pressure on it.
Also, take that return spring and walk behind your house. Now rear back and do your best Nolan Ryan impression.
Also, take that return spring and walk behind your house. Now rear back and do your best Nolan Ryan impression.
03-23-2016, 12:29 PM
#19
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Panama City Beach, Florida
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
lol yeah I took the spring out, heres a question for you though, and this is something that only happens on the tick MC, it did not do this before the swap, if i just put the weight of my foot on the clutch pedal, it starts "vibrating" or "pulsating" if i put a little more pressure, it stops, and it vibrates enough to where you can see my leg vibrating from the knee down...is that normal? common sense tells me that is a sign of air being in the line?
03-24-2016, 05:04 PM
#20
you should not feel any vibes when just "resting" on the pedal. Either still some air or you have a FW that is not dead nuts flat
on the MC adjusting thing you start with the pedal even with brake pedal. Jack up rear of car so wheels are off ground. start motor and put in gear. If it is hard to get in gear or won't go adjust rod 2 turns and try until it does go into gear. Now with car in gear, clutch fully depressed, car running the rear wheels should not spin. If they do, adjust rod 1 more turn (or more if needed) until the rear tires do not move when in gear, car running. You now have complete disengagement and your pedal is...well where it needs to be. Either flush with the brake or possible slightly higher
When I went with a twin clutch my pedal is higher. I have the Wilwood MC which came with the McLeod clutch
on the MC adjusting thing you start with the pedal even with brake pedal. Jack up rear of car so wheels are off ground. start motor and put in gear. If it is hard to get in gear or won't go adjust rod 2 turns and try until it does go into gear. Now with car in gear, clutch fully depressed, car running the rear wheels should not spin. If they do, adjust rod 1 more turn (or more if needed) until the rear tires do not move when in gear, car running. You now have complete disengagement and your pedal is...well where it needs to be. Either flush with the brake or possible slightly higher
When I went with a twin clutch my pedal is higher. I have the Wilwood MC which came with the McLeod clutch