Is this fixable?
Is this fixable? I'm pretty disappointed right now. I bought this trans a few months ago. Finally have my build all done and putting all the fluids in... turns out the case has a crack :'(.
Is this weldable? Should I be worried about anything immediately behind this part? it's on the bottom back of the case, I removed the bolt from the hole pictured to see the extent of the damage.
Is this weldable? Should I be worried about anything immediately behind this part? it's on the bottom back of the case, I removed the bolt from the hole pictured to see the extent of the damage.
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
Crack not apparent in the photo...but trying to weld alloy....and cast alloy...upside down and with a fluid like ATF or oil on the other side.
Well, that isnt an easy proposition.
If you remove it and clean it etc then yes it would be easily weldable.
Well, that isnt an easy proposition.
If you remove it and clean it etc then yes it would be easily weldable.
I actually fixed this already. I used Aluminum 2 part epoxy. I cleaned the area thoroughly, wire wheeled it, ground the crack down to exposed clean metal, cleaned it all again, torched it to 200*ish, brake clean spray, then torch again, then applied the epoxy.
I think it'll hold.
Luckily I have a new issue to tackle. For some reason the slave cylinder is leaking inside the box now. It has never even seen pressure as I haven't bled the line fully yet. This is the second slave cylinder already as the first one leaked too. What is going on?
I think it'll hold.
Luckily I have a new issue to tackle. For some reason the slave cylinder is leaking inside the box now. It has never even seen pressure as I haven't bled the line fully yet. This is the second slave cylinder already as the first one leaked too. What is going on?
I actually fixed this already. I used Aluminum 2 part epoxy. I cleaned the area thoroughly, wire wheeled it, ground the crack down to exposed clean metal, cleaned it all again, torched it to 200*ish, brake clean spray, then torch again, then applied the epoxy.
I think it'll hold.
Luckily I have a new issue to tackle. For some reason the slave cylinder is leaking inside the box now. It has never even seen pressure as I haven't bled the line fully yet. This is the second slave cylinder already as the first one leaked too. What is going on?
I think it'll hold.
Luckily I have a new issue to tackle. For some reason the slave cylinder is leaking inside the box now. It has never even seen pressure as I haven't bled the line fully yet. This is the second slave cylinder already as the first one leaked too. What is going on?
It's a LUK brand new slave. seems like 2 for 2 are leaking. Which is utterly ridiculous. What is the GM brand, ACDelco?
If there is a better brand, please let me know, next time i change this out better be my last.
If there is a better brand, please let me know, next time i change this out better be my last.
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I ordered a genuine OEM (AP brand) slave cylinder. $170 later I should have it in 2 days. Not looking forward to pulling the trans to do this. I have zero room to work with and the sucker is heavy. But this better be the last time I have to pull this. 2 faulty LUK slave cylinders in a row is unacceptable. It's possible I'm doing something wrong but I can't for the life of me figure out what I could have done wrong.
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Norn Iron
I'm sure there will be similar products in the US...but if doing the box from the floor, this is very handy
I'm sure there will be similar products in the US...but if doing the box from the floor, this is very handy
Draper 53095 150 kg Floor Transmission Jack: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike
Draper 53095 150 kg Floor Transmission Jack: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike
They have those jacks at Harbor Freight, they work great, and 20% off coupons on the net, you can get them for around $80.00 out the door.
http://m.harborfreight.com/450-lb-ca...not%20provided
http://m.harborfreight.com/450-lb-ca...not%20provided
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
They're still heavy to lift from the floor position with the jack, but it's a huge help as you can move it around and dont have to carry the weight yourself
To change the slave, you could probably get away with just dropping it a bit ( remove drivesahft/shifter etc of course ) and just roll the trans back, unbolt the slave, slide a now one on and slide trans back across and into the bellhousing without even dropping trans to floor level.
To change the slave, you could probably get away with just dropping it a bit ( remove drivesahft/shifter etc of course ) and just roll the trans back, unbolt the slave, slide a now one on and slide trans back across and into the bellhousing without even dropping trans to floor level.
Welp, I already did this last night
But to help get everything back in, I'll use this:
Thanks a TON for the heads-up lizeec
New slave will be here tomorrow. Looking at the old one quickly, it's leaking from out the back somewhere. I haven't pulled it and looked for a crack yet.
But to help get everything back in, I'll use this:
Thanks a TON for the heads-up lizeec
New slave will be here tomorrow. Looking at the old one quickly, it's leaking from out the back somewhere. I haven't pulled it and looked for a crack yet.
Found the issue. The slave cylinder is fine, and turns out it is actually an AP part as well. The leak is my own fault. I am using the Speedway remote bleeder and long story short I subbed out the crush washer for a rubber seal, my seal failed. 
It's my mistake for trying to over engineer it, like a stupid engineer. I'll learn from it, fix it, and get it all back together. I have a wedding to attend tomorrow so I'll get the trans back in the car on Sunday. One step closer to finishing this project.
It's my mistake for trying to over engineer it, like a stupid engineer. I'll learn from it, fix it, and get it all back together. I have a wedding to attend tomorrow so I'll get the trans back in the car on Sunday. One step closer to finishing this project.
No problem, another trick I used is to buy 4 longer bolts that are the same thread pitch as the transmission to bellhousing but about 4-5 inches long and cut the bolt head off and slot the bolt with a die grinder and thread them into the bellhousings 4 corners with a screwdriver and use them like dowel guides to re-stab the transmission into the bellhousing, once the transmission is seated you can start putting the correct bolts in the other holes and then remove the dowel guide bolts with the slotted head using a screwdriver. I used old starter bolts and cut the heads off as they were about perfect in length. You will like the jack, it works great, made me wonder how I ever got along without one, but in the old days I was younger and Muncie transmissions were lighter, those Tremecs are heavy!
Last edited by lizeec; Apr 8, 2016 at 11:01 PM.
The solvents are volatile, but its nothing like a real explosive (like flash powder or acetone peroxide) I think if I wasn't wearing a welding mask, it would have singed my hair who knows. But it wasn't that bad
