Heeeeeeelppppppp
Huh?

The clutch will be grippiest when the transmission is out of the car. The clutch is disengaged when the transmission & slave are installed, and the clutch pedal is depressed (throwout bearing pushes in to fingers on the clutch pressure plate to disengage clutch).
If the engine and transmission are off of the car, umm.... Huh?
Last edited by zamboxl; Jun 25, 2004 at 09:51 AM.
"when ever he would let go of the driveshaft it would slowly turn..."
That means the clutch is doing its job, transferring the crank rotation to the driveshaft.
Hook the driveshaft up to the rear diff, chock the wheels, put the trans in 6th gear, and you should have no problems tightening the crank pulley.
You need to find a way to stop the trans output shaft from rotating. I used a junk yoke and u-joint off a driveshaft, slid that into the tailshaft, and slid a prybar into the old yoke. I had my neighbor stand on the prybar, put the trans in 6th gear, and that allowed me to loosen (and later tighten) the balancer bolt without the crank moving.
You don't need the clutch hydraulics connected for the clutch to hold torque, just need a way to stop the trans output shaft from rotating.
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"when ever he would let go of the driveshaft it would slowly turn..."
That means the clutch is doing its job, transferring the crank rotation to the driveshaft.
Hook the driveshaft up to the rear diff, chock the wheels, put the trans in 6th gear, and you should have no problems tightening the crank pulley.
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You need to find a way to stop the trans output shaft from rotating. I used a junk yoke and u-joint off a driveshaft, slid that into the tailshaft, and slid a prybar into the old yoke. I had my neighbor stand on the prybar, put the trans in 6th gear, and that allowed me to loosen (and later tighten) the balancer bolt without the crank moving.
You don't need the clutch hydraulics connected for the clutch to hold torque, just need a way to stop the trans output shaft from rotating.

