I have the LS7 clutch and flywheel in two vehicles. It's a great driving clutch and i've never had issues shifting.

Clutches are not multi-purpose tools. You have to pick the right one for the job. If you want something smooth, that holds decent power, and you only race occasionally, then there is nothing wrong with it...

Andrew

 

X2, couldn't agree more.

 

are either of them 4th gen f bodies with stock clutch hydraulics/stock master cylinder ?

 

Tick MC should be the first transmission mod before anything else, an aftermarket clutch is useless if you cant shift in the upper RPMs due to lack of fluid movement. Hell, the stock clutch usually won't shift in the upper RPMs without it. There is a massive difference in how much fluid that thing puts out compared to stock.
Also agree on the MGW shifter, I have one and went from stock hurst (rowing a boat) to lous short stick to this and its a great great shifter, super smooth, short and precise. Ive felt a pro 5.0 as well before and it was super notchy in comparison.

 

Not exactly, but you all have various solutions for this. The Cougar uses a f-body slave and a Wildwood MC.

Andrew

 

Tick MC is a bandaid for a poor clutch. Had one. Went back to stock now

 

Why would you go from a tick master to stock?

 

Exactly. It's unnecessary on a proper set up.

 

Tick master moves more fluid than the slave can handle. It is possible to over-stroke the slave and blow the seals out.

But, it can have a light-switch feel to it. You gotta nail that engagement point, and if you're off your game for a split second, its embarrassing. Although, I still have my tick master, because changing it really sucks. Id rather swap the clutch than the master.... I digress.

But if you're trying to slip the clutch for any particular reason, the tick master makes it difficult. Now, here again, consider the entire set up. On a stock-style clutch with LONG pressure plate fingers, the engagement window is naturally wider, so the transition can be absorbed even with the larger master cylinder. Some people - myself included - actually like this on a stock-style, single disc clutch. Now, consider a twin or triple disc clutch with shorter fingers and a naturally narrower engagement window. Now, you've got the master cylinder set up for a narrower window AND your clutch already has a narrow window. This will give you a light-switch behavior, and would make you want to go back to a smaller master cylinder.

Hope that helps

 

Darth,

You're on point. I used to have a LS6 powered RX7. At the time I was using a single disk Quarter Master 8.5" clutch. Max finger travel for release was something like .340". So I used the stock Mazda MC, which was 5/8" bore. The result was a super light pedal, great modulation, and smooth engagement. Definitely not an On/Off switch.

The LS7 clutch actually does not need a lot of travel on the spring fingers to achieve full release. On my GTO I am using a Quarter Master street release bearing, which only has .460" travel. Before installing everything, I tested everything outside the car. The LS7 clutch was releasing fully with less than .400" bearing travel. So I stepped down to a .700 bore MC, which softened the pedal, reduced the chance of over travel, and gave me easier modulation. Everything you want in a street car.

Andrew

 

Im curious about this as ive never heard of anyone having the problem but I know its a possible issue. Would there be any tell tale signs of this or would it just all of a sudden give out when the slave has had enough? Ive curious what actually happened to my stock clutch to cause it to break, if I remember right a couple of the little springs were broken, but the car drove totally fine up until it broke (was running the car, going into 4th gear and then there was no 4th gear and car was going no where, pushed the clutch peddle down and it felt like nothing was there, coasted to a parking lot and car would engage in 1st gear and kinda drive but if i gave it any gas it would grind - had to tow it home)

 

So I hear nothing but good things about the tick master. Now all of a sudden I hear nothing but bad? What the ****

 

It depends on your clutch mappy. On a single stock style clutch they're fine. But twin discs are more jumpy as it is so the tick master makes it even worse because it moves more fluid per inch of stroke

 

LS7 clutch kit

 

It'll work fine in ls7

 

Monster Stage 1 or 2!

 

For the Rick master to overstroke the slave, the rod has to be adjusted way far out. If you have it level with the brake pedal it won't do it. If you have it at stock height it can. Also when it happens your bellhousing will vomit some fluid. Typically when it fails it's pretty catastrophic meaning almost no warning.

 

I went from and ls7 setup with a tick master to my current twin disc monster. I will say that the ls7 was nice for daily driving...But did require fine tuning on the master to dial it in.Once that was set I loved the clutch for daily use.Now at the track..I hated the ls7 setup..Ive been warned before not to try to launch it hard repeatedly as it will heat up and my pedal would drop to the floor and require a lengthy cool down.Which I did experience several times at the strip.High speed shifting was something it also didnt take well either and that showed up even worse when I put my short shifter on. But for light track use and daily driving..stop n go traffic..it was butter.Just have to understand what your demanding of a stock clutch vs the abuse your putting it through.

 

did pretty good for me. + for the ls7 clutch.

 

So you hung with a stock C5?