cknoma2005

iTrader: (3)

I recently installed a new Tick Performance master clutch cylinder. I had an issue with my car one day where I could not get it into any gear while the car was running. If the car was off it would go into any gear just fine. I had checked the clutch fluid reservoir and it was black so I figured either I need to changed the fluid or the stock master cylinder was worn out. I decided to do both and ordered a Tick Performance master cylinder. I had heard good things about these aftermarket clutch cylinders and knew about the limitations of the factory unit so I thought it would be a good decision. After bench bleeding the new unit and installing it on the car and bleeding it again to fully remove the old fluid from the slave cylinder, I proceeded with the adjustment of the pedal throw\height per the included instructions. These Tick master cylinders move more fluid than the small factory cylinder so they have to be adjusted correctly or is there a possibility of damaging your pressure plate or slave cylinder. I digress. The pedal was in its lowest position when I started the car and to my surprise I was able to go into any gear just fine. So, step one was a success. The second step said to drive the car and attempt to shift quickly at high rpms to determine if the clutch was full disengaging at redline. It didn't feel right so I raised the pedal a little. I was happy where it was so I left it at that. Two days later I took the car out and on my way home I started having difficulty getting into first gear. After pumping the pedal I was able to get home. Yesterday I decided to bleed the clutch again from the bleed screw on the slave. I didn't get any air but it seemed to go into gear after raising the pedal some more. Now the pedal is even with the brake pedal. I drive the car and it starts to happen again. Raising and lowering the pedal doesn't help. If I lower it past the brake pedal I can't get into any gear. If I raise it level with the brake pedal I can get into most gears. Sometimes first but reverse isn't working. I will add this piece of info though. 10,000 miles ago I installed a new Monster Stage 2 clutch and new gm slave cylinder. I followed the 500mile stop and go break in procedure for the clutch. It has seen the track once in that time. Some burnouts on shitty street tires is about the extent of its abuse. Clutch was working fine until this all started. It wasn't slipping at all.

Is it possible that I over extended the pressure plate fingers, burnt up the clutch or somehow damaged the slave cylinder. What should I do?

gongshow71

iTrader: (1)

First I would triple check that you have the silver rod completely screwed in towards the fire wall to begin the adjustments. If you don't pay attention carefully you could possibly be spinning both the silver rod and the gold rod together. Hold the gold threaded rod with one hand while you turn the silver rod separately. There should be about 1.5 inches of threads still showing when you bottom out the silver rod.

If you start the measurements from the true zero point, and youre still able to get it into first gear, I would assume the issue is something else with your set up. Because when I adjusted my Tick adj cylinder I could not even move the clutch pedal but .25 inch up or down. No way I could possibly get it into first gear because the pedal was practically welded in place near the floor.

Also, did you measure for a slave shim? Surprisingly enough not having the correct shim or no shim can cause funky issues with the whole hydraulic system.

Lastly, an incorrectly aligned flywheel/clutch and pilot bearing can cause strange shifting issues as well. The plastic pilot bearing alignment tool that comes with clutch kits should easily and smoothly slide in and out of the hole. If you have any resistance sliding it in and out (ie. feels like your hitting an edge or lip and then you have to jiggle a bit to get past it) there can be a problem.

My recommendation:
1) insure that you have no hydraulic leaks.
2) Redo the tick adjustments for the master and make sure you are starting at the true zero point
3) rebleed the system

If you still are having problems call Tick and talk with Eli before you pull the trans. He knows everything about these hydraulic set ups and he helped me a ton last week when I was having similar issues.

SladeX

An easy check for air; disconnect the master from the slave and push in the pedal/master by HAND. Should not move.

I have 2 tick masters (1 for standby). When doing the "bench" bleed, I always tilt around the master in some kind of way to move air into the translucent part which connects to the reservoir line. I find a good way to bench bleed it is to fill up a small container with brake fluid, wedge a small nail in the slave connect to keep it open, then submerge the line. You can cycle fluid into the master by hand by pressing it in, just keep the reservoir filled. After a few presses, ensure you tilt around the master to get every bit of air trapped in it and verify when pressing in the master that you don't see air bubbles being pushed out.