For anyone else that might read this thread in the future I found this youtube video on doing the master cylinder and drill mod. Seems to be a great video with lots of detail.

 

Just a little fyi....our gm master cyl already comes with all the ancillary components like hoses amd reservior...PLUS it already comes with clutch fluid in it meaning less bleed time as well.

Using a new maater and slave negates the need for a drill mod. Been that way since 2010 iirc for new parts, even the ones you get from auto parts store if not gm.

 

Uh oh, I did the drill mod today. I guess everything will be ok with the drill mod, new slave and new master cylinder? My master is made by Exedy and the part # on it matches the part # on the factory unit I pulled out. The only thing it came with was the roll pin and hose that goes up to the master cylinder. This was the first time I've done a clutch MC and it was a PITA to do with the U bolt and it being mounted right under the brake booster. I actually had it all mounted but the hose going to the master cylinder wasn't clocked right, had a kink it, so I had to pull it all out and rotate the master hose; glad that job is done!

 

I ended up going with LUK LS7 clutch kit, while doing the job I did as others suggested and replaced the master cylinder and slave cylinder. I haven't driven the car too much yet, but the LS7 clutch is like butter!! I couldn't believe how much better this thing felt all the way around than the POS I took out of my car.

We had a hell of a time bleeding it; I installed a remote bleeder. I was bleeding it with the remote bleeder under the car and we couldn't get good pedal pressure. I did a little research and saw where someone said you need to have the remote bleeder higher than the slave cylinder so I routed the remote bleeder up through the engine compartment, bleed it up there and this did the trick.

For anyone who wants a great feeling "street clutch" like I was looking for I would suggest the LS7 clutch without a doubt- light pedal pressure, zero chatter, smooth engagement/disengagement.

 

Any updates on this clutch swap?

 

I drove the car for about 4 months after the clutch install to put it for the winter. The clutch is amazing! It's very street friendly, has a great light feel to it, has held up through some power-braking burnouts without any problems. It's a great clutch for my daily driven car. If it were to go out years down the road chances are I would put another one in. Are you thinking of going with it?

 

Yeah I am but I’ve been debating again...
I need a clutch setup with all hydraulics for my t56 swap in my 69 camaro.
Stock hydraulics are ok for the swap, but I may go turbo.
My 00 ss has the pedal sticking after a hard run, so I’m sure I need to replace it all also.
I’ve been reading up on the diamond clutches also but with flywheel doubles the price.
Where did you find thst clutch setup so cheap?

 

I got the clutch kit from parts geek.

 

LS7 is way too heavy. Why get a heavier clutch, its just sapping acceleration. Many new clutch combos can be smooth for street driving and have as much or more holding force. I run a Monster LT1-s lightweight dual, with stock MC. Engages as smooth as stock but just a bit grippier when I need to drop it fast. I love it.

 

Well I guess the price is why we would use it.
What about a lighter flywheel and the ls7 clutch?

 

We hsve the ls7 clutch with alum flywheel also, but the ls7 clutch isnt "too heavy" by any means. Its a great street clutch and an ok racing clutch. it all boils down to how its driven.
The alum flywheel saves ALOT of weight for those concerned.
Ls7 Clutch with Alum flywheel

 

For the luk slave you order did it have a stamp AP d951004 on it?

 

I use red loctite on the pressure plate bolts. The new GM flywheel bolts already have a coating but I wouldn't be afraid to put red loctite on them.

 

Ls7 clutch is junk