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yea i knew about that, 4 seconds on an belt sander, 5 minutes of measuring and pressure testing, and boom. Also, it did thread all the way, I just shaved it to the same length as the original part that threaded in. And I did add an oring as well
The original fittings look like they seal on the o-ring. Presumably there is a recess in the case that acts as a receiver groove for the o-ring. I am surprised those are not metric...
The original fittings look like they seal on the o-ring. Presumably there is a recess in the case that acts as a receiver groove for the o-ring. I am surprised those are not metric...
Andrew
I was also surprised. Yea they seal on the oring, there is no receiver groove for it
GM does funny stuff like this, for assembly line purposes. Those stock lines just need to be pushed into the trans and off it keeps rolling down the assembly line.
Sorry this is an old thread, but this is a very similar issue that I'm finding. What I want to do is use some stock GM fittings that will convert over to an inverted flare so that I can use a regular 3/8 nicopp line rather than AN fittings. From what I gather the stock GM fitting size for the TR6060 is 1/4-18 NPS which is the same as the 4L60e and 4L80e's. I happen to have a set of GM 8637742 fittings that are for these applications, but don't appear to be the right size. They thread in, but are very loose. Anyone have the right thread size?
I thought I would add some recent insight to this thread I dug up with a few photos. I bought two male to male -6an adapters to try what was done above for the trans cooler lines. I got them from evil energy on Amazon for cheap and free returns in case it didn’t fit
As confirmed above, the oem quick connect fittings seal on the o rings and have no seat on the deep end of the threads. In fact, on the left/drivers side there is just open air behind it as depicted below. 19mm hex.
The flared portion of the new an fitting just floats past the threads on this side. I put the old and new fitting side by side and tried to line up the surface the o ring sits on to compare thread engagement length and total depth into the trans hole. The parts that go into the trans are on the bottom and the o ring has already been swapped to the new black adapter (for demonstration. Buying a new o ring). You can see small threadless area where it seats on the oem adapter.
Again, the extra length is a non issue as there is no backing on this side, just the threaded hole. The fitting seats fully, first binding on the o ring, then sitting flush.
The right/passenger side looked like it might be problematic because there is a metal backing. The backing did not appear tapered like a mating surface for an AN fitting, but flat. It was significantly deeper than the thread engagement of the oem fitting.
Plugged in the new AN fitting and same story: binding on the o ring then seated flush.
It should be noted, I haven’t pressure tested this yet. Wanted to verify the fitment before I ordered my hose and hose ends. I will certainly update if this doesn’t work, but if you don’t see a follow up post assume you’re good. I just wanted to add a little clarity as there seemed to be a bit of question above and even another post on ls1tech mentioned belt sanding the fittings. It does not appear to be necessary. I’m going to add a touch of RTV to the threads for redundancy.
Unfortunately this project still sits in my garage without running. Everything points to these being able to work though. And they weren’t crazy expensive. Low risk. Good luck!
08-21-2017 | 09:03 PM
