Mamo RPS BC2 install/review
09-04-2017, 11:39 PM
#1
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
3 Posts
Mamo RPS BC2 install/review Hey guys,
Thought I would do a review on this clutch for everyone, especially anyone considering one of these units...
First off, here's a little background if you don't know/follow the car (grab a coffee):
My 2002 Camaro SS with approx 75000kms now on it (bought it with 52000kms).
As many have experienced, the stock GM clutches in these cars and many other LSX equipped cars are not a very good design and will not take much abuse even at stock power, before it's time for replacing.
Specifically issues with clutch slipping, pedal sticking and inability to shift at high rpm. These issues are a combination of the factory clutch hydaulics and the stock GM pressure plate.
It didn't take too many mods/track passes/abuse for my stock LS6 clutch to give up. Basically started slipping at higher rpm...this was with hockey puck street tires and bolt-ons, gave up/started slipping at ~335 rwhp on dyno.
So that lead me to my first clutch upgrade @ ~58000kms...went to a Monster Level 2 single disc clutch & 18LB steel flywheel. Installed this along with a Tick Performance adj master cyl & speed bleeder. Thread below for details/review on that:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...installed.html
I'll say this is an absolute awesome clutch for a car that sees mostly street use, even at stock power. This clutch allowed all the HP's on the next dyno tune @ 344rwhp/354rwtq with bolt-ons. The level 2 is rated to 550rwhp/rwtq, so it was more than what I needed. Even the level 1 rated at 450rwhp/rwtq would have been more than enough, but I, like most, had plans for more power down the road so why not give myself more wiggle room.
The Monster drove and performed sooo much better than stock, took tons of track passes on drag radials, and never seemed to break a sweat. Here's a pass the car made with bolt-ons and a soft launch @ 2.0 60ft:
Car was obviously a lot slower than it is now, but the key thing to watch/listen to is the shift speed...
In comes Tony Mamo...
Most of you guys know, he is among the top engine builders and airflow wizards we know of, especially in the LS world.
He spec'd and built me an absolute killer heads/cam/intake combination.
Primarily consisting of his worked AFR (at the time) 215 cylinder heads, a relatively small 227/231 camshaft, a FAST 102/102mm intake/throttle body with his porting, and a valvetrain setup that keeps everything in check @ 7000+rpm.
All said and done, the car made 470rwhp & 411rwtq @ ~6400rpm on the stock bottom end 346 LS1, through that Monster clutch, stock T56, driveshaft and 10-bolt rear end with 3.90 gears...
Here's how the car did at the track with the new motor setup:
Big gainz! pretty much a full second and 11-12 mph in the 1/4 mile, everything else the same except the addition of an MGW shifter
Again, note the shifting speed....@ ~6800+ rpm shift points, the shifts are maybe a little slower than @ 5800-6000rpm with bolt-ons.
This, in theory, is due to the clutch disc @ higher rpm requiring more time/effort to slow down to allow the trans to get into the next gear.
By no means am I the best driver in the world lol
I'm sure someone can bang gears faster driving the same car, but that's what I could manage with that setup.
This same day the car finally hauled *** into the 11's, it also finally broke the 10-bolt lol...shredded the spider gears in the diff on a 1-2 shift a couple runs later.
I already had waiting at home a complete Strange S60 rear end, PST driveshaft and MWC suspension setup...I decided at the same time, to upgrade my clutch & trans to support future power mods and be able to launch the car @ high rpm on slicks.
Transmission was decided on a RPM T56 magnum with stock F-body gearing.
I had pretty much set my mind on a twin disc clutch setup...it came down to 2 in particular:
1. McLeod RXT twin disc - this would have been a very cost effective way to go...@ around $900, I would have been able to bolt it to my existing Monster flywheel and have 1000+HP capacity.
Approximate weight of whole assembly would have been just over 40LBS, so saving a bit of weight from the Monster. The ceramic discs/floaters would hold a ton of power/abuse, but in theory would be harder to slow down/shift with. Some have had great luck with this setup, others have not been so happy with it...
2. The "MacDaddy" RPS BC2 (billet carbon twin) - This is not the cheapest way to go @ more than twice the price of the McLeod, so I took a good long time to think it over...ultimately between Tony really knowing his stuff & pushing me into this clutch, and the fact that the rest of my build is pretty much "nothing left on the table", I decided pull the trigger.
With his work to it (basically machining weight out of the outside of the flywheel), the total weight of the setup is 31-32LBS. This would not only free up more HP at the wheels and allow quicker revving, but rated at 900rwhp, it would allow me plenty of room to grow. One of the key components that make this setup superior to everything else are the billet carbon discs/floaters. Their light weight, in theory, allows them to slow down much quicker in between shifts than the heavier discs used in most other clutches. This should in-turn yield much quicker shifting with the same/less effort.....
Thought I would do a review on this clutch for everyone, especially anyone considering one of these units...
First off, here's a little background if you don't know/follow the car (grab a coffee):
My 2002 Camaro SS with approx 75000kms now on it (bought it with 52000kms).
As many have experienced, the stock GM clutches in these cars and many other LSX equipped cars are not a very good design and will not take much abuse even at stock power, before it's time for replacing.
Specifically issues with clutch slipping, pedal sticking and inability to shift at high rpm. These issues are a combination of the factory clutch hydaulics and the stock GM pressure plate.
It didn't take too many mods/track passes/abuse for my stock LS6 clutch to give up. Basically started slipping at higher rpm...this was with hockey puck street tires and bolt-ons, gave up/started slipping at ~335 rwhp on dyno.
So that lead me to my first clutch upgrade @ ~58000kms...went to a Monster Level 2 single disc clutch & 18LB steel flywheel. Installed this along with a Tick Performance adj master cyl & speed bleeder. Thread below for details/review on that:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...installed.html
I'll say this is an absolute awesome clutch for a car that sees mostly street use, even at stock power. This clutch allowed all the HP's on the next dyno tune @ 344rwhp/354rwtq with bolt-ons. The level 2 is rated to 550rwhp/rwtq, so it was more than what I needed. Even the level 1 rated at 450rwhp/rwtq would have been more than enough, but I, like most, had plans for more power down the road so why not give myself more wiggle room.
The Monster drove and performed sooo much better than stock, took tons of track passes on drag radials, and never seemed to break a sweat. Here's a pass the car made with bolt-ons and a soft launch @ 2.0 60ft:
Car was obviously a lot slower than it is now, but the key thing to watch/listen to is the shift speed...
In comes Tony Mamo...
Most of you guys know, he is among the top engine builders and airflow wizards we know of, especially in the LS world.
He spec'd and built me an absolute killer heads/cam/intake combination.
Primarily consisting of his worked AFR (at the time) 215 cylinder heads, a relatively small 227/231 camshaft, a FAST 102/102mm intake/throttle body with his porting, and a valvetrain setup that keeps everything in check @ 7000+rpm.
All said and done, the car made 470rwhp & 411rwtq @ ~6400rpm on the stock bottom end 346 LS1, through that Monster clutch, stock T56, driveshaft and 10-bolt rear end with 3.90 gears...
Here's how the car did at the track with the new motor setup:
Big gainz! pretty much a full second and 11-12 mph in the 1/4 mile, everything else the same except the addition of an MGW shifter
Again, note the shifting speed....@ ~6800+ rpm shift points, the shifts are maybe a little slower than @ 5800-6000rpm with bolt-ons.
This, in theory, is due to the clutch disc @ higher rpm requiring more time/effort to slow down to allow the trans to get into the next gear.
By no means am I the best driver in the world lol
I'm sure someone can bang gears faster driving the same car, but that's what I could manage with that setup.
This same day the car finally hauled *** into the 11's, it also finally broke the 10-bolt lol...shredded the spider gears in the diff on a 1-2 shift a couple runs later.
I already had waiting at home a complete Strange S60 rear end, PST driveshaft and MWC suspension setup...I decided at the same time, to upgrade my clutch & trans to support future power mods and be able to launch the car @ high rpm on slicks.
Transmission was decided on a RPM T56 magnum with stock F-body gearing.
I had pretty much set my mind on a twin disc clutch setup...it came down to 2 in particular:
1. McLeod RXT twin disc - this would have been a very cost effective way to go...@ around $900, I would have been able to bolt it to my existing Monster flywheel and have 1000+HP capacity.
Approximate weight of whole assembly would have been just over 40LBS, so saving a bit of weight from the Monster. The ceramic discs/floaters would hold a ton of power/abuse, but in theory would be harder to slow down/shift with. Some have had great luck with this setup, others have not been so happy with it...
2. The "MacDaddy" RPS BC2 (billet carbon twin) - This is not the cheapest way to go @ more than twice the price of the McLeod, so I took a good long time to think it over...ultimately between Tony really knowing his stuff & pushing me into this clutch, and the fact that the rest of my build is pretty much "nothing left on the table", I decided pull the trigger.
With his work to it (basically machining weight out of the outside of the flywheel), the total weight of the setup is 31-32LBS. This would not only free up more HP at the wheels and allow quicker revving, but rated at 900rwhp, it would allow me plenty of room to grow. One of the key components that make this setup superior to everything else are the billet carbon discs/floaters. Their light weight, in theory, allows them to slow down much quicker in between shifts than the heavier discs used in most other clutches. This should in-turn yield much quicker shifting with the same/less effort.....
Last edited by manzo81maro; 09-05-2017 at 02:00 AM.
09-05-2017, 12:23 AM
#2
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
3 Posts
Out with the old:
The Monster level 2 setup is removed, and after ~15000kms of cruising, burnouts, spirited driving and multiple track passes on drag radials, it still has tons of life left
I was so happy with this clutch, that I felt kinda bad unbolting it...
In with the new:
As you can see, all components are finished to the highest quality and precision....
The clutch is packaged assembled, makes install a breeze knowing how everything should go together.
All new hardware, instructions, alignment tool, spline grease, lapping compound and thread locker were all included.
Mainly it just looks damn purdy!
I had already installed, setup and broken in the S60 rear, PST shaft & MWC suspension, so just had the T56 magnum and new clutch to install to complete the drivetrain build!
Once everything was installed, I bled the hydraulics and set the clutch pedal pretty much level with the brake pedal or very close to the setting for the Monster clutch.
As per manufacturer and Tony's recommendations, I allowed at least 500 miles of easy street driving/cruising before any abuse...WOT pulls were allowed after some use, but basically do not slip the clutch/power shift at high rpm until broken in.
Off to the track/dyno we go:
Had the car re-tuned (street & dyno) mainly due to changes in idle quality because there is now much less weight on the back of the crank.
This was an older dynojet...different dyno than what the car is usually tuned on, so we can't compare dyno numbers 100%...but hey! Almost 460rwhp through a driveline that belongs in a dumptruck is nothing to stick my nose up at...
Now, some of the magic here is definitely due to the new clutch offsetting a lot of the power lost through the new drivetrain...Tony guestimates somewhere in the 12-15rwhp area is what should have been gained/freed up from the previous clutch due to the 15+LB weight savings.
On to what really tells the tale...the track!
This was just this past Saturday at St Thomas Raceway in very similar, if not higher DA than the previous passes...
Car is definitely faster all around...went from 11.87 @ 122.8 to 11.18 @ 123.2 (best mph 123.95)
Gearing went from 3.90 & 26" tire to 4.10 & 27" tire, so no real change there other than traction
The weight gained in the drivetrain and suspension (+75-100LBS) from the 11.87 pass should be mostly offset with the lighter clutch (-15LBS), lighter drag wheels/tires (-60LBS), A/C delete (-20LBS)...I haven't confirmed raceweight yet, but they should be fairly close...I'm 240+LBS so probably 3700-3800 raceweight?? Will get her on a scale soon...
Anyways, compare shifting speed between setups...the RPS unit allows lightning fast shifts, even for slow guys like me
Some of the shifting smoothness could be due to the new trans as well, but it ain't no puppy...it's gotta be 20+lbs heavier than the stock T56 and bigger gears/components in the magnum may or may not take more effort to shift, but I don't know for sure, just speculating...
Another pass, this time inside the car:
At any rate, this clutch just plain kicks ***! I've put about 1500kms and 30 track passes on it....hot lapped the car multiple times and it shows no sign of getting over-worked...
It takes a little getting used to on the street, but for what it is, it's a super smooth, very street friendly clutch that drives around beautifully. I absolutely love the feel and driveability of it.
All said and done, it's quite a bit of coin for a street/strip clutch, but the gains it has given me, along with the piece of mind of never needing another clutch again (I don't think I'll exceed its capacity), kind of make me forget how much it hit my wallet....
Big thanks to Tony Mamo for exceeding my expectations once again!
There's probably lots of info about this clutch that I'm missing but I'm sure he'll chime in at some point to elaborate.
PM or email him to get your hands on one of these badass units if you don't have one already!
Open to any questions/comments...
Cheers!
The Monster level 2 setup is removed, and after ~15000kms of cruising, burnouts, spirited driving and multiple track passes on drag radials, it still has tons of life left
I was so happy with this clutch, that I felt kinda bad unbolting it...
In with the new:
As you can see, all components are finished to the highest quality and precision....
The clutch is packaged assembled, makes install a breeze knowing how everything should go together.
All new hardware, instructions, alignment tool, spline grease, lapping compound and thread locker were all included.
Mainly it just looks damn purdy!
I had already installed, setup and broken in the S60 rear, PST shaft & MWC suspension, so just had the T56 magnum and new clutch to install to complete the drivetrain build!
Once everything was installed, I bled the hydraulics and set the clutch pedal pretty much level with the brake pedal or very close to the setting for the Monster clutch.
As per manufacturer and Tony's recommendations, I allowed at least 500 miles of easy street driving/cruising before any abuse...WOT pulls were allowed after some use, but basically do not slip the clutch/power shift at high rpm until broken in.
Off to the track/dyno we go:
Had the car re-tuned (street & dyno) mainly due to changes in idle quality because there is now much less weight on the back of the crank.
This was an older dynojet...different dyno than what the car is usually tuned on, so we can't compare dyno numbers 100%...but hey! Almost 460rwhp through a driveline that belongs in a dumptruck is nothing to stick my nose up at...
Now, some of the magic here is definitely due to the new clutch offsetting a lot of the power lost through the new drivetrain...Tony guestimates somewhere in the 12-15rwhp area is what should have been gained/freed up from the previous clutch due to the 15+LB weight savings.
On to what really tells the tale...the track!
This was just this past Saturday at St Thomas Raceway in very similar, if not higher DA than the previous passes...
Car is definitely faster all around...went from 11.87 @ 122.8 to 11.18 @ 123.2 (best mph 123.95)
Gearing went from 3.90 & 26" tire to 4.10 & 27" tire, so no real change there other than traction
The weight gained in the drivetrain and suspension (+75-100LBS) from the 11.87 pass should be mostly offset with the lighter clutch (-15LBS), lighter drag wheels/tires (-60LBS), A/C delete (-20LBS)...I haven't confirmed raceweight yet, but they should be fairly close...I'm 240+LBS so probably 3700-3800 raceweight?? Will get her on a scale soon...
Anyways, compare shifting speed between setups...the RPS unit allows lightning fast shifts, even for slow guys like me
Some of the shifting smoothness could be due to the new trans as well, but it ain't no puppy...it's gotta be 20+lbs heavier than the stock T56 and bigger gears/components in the magnum may or may not take more effort to shift, but I don't know for sure, just speculating...
Another pass, this time inside the car:
At any rate, this clutch just plain kicks ***! I've put about 1500kms and 30 track passes on it....hot lapped the car multiple times and it shows no sign of getting over-worked...
It takes a little getting used to on the street, but for what it is, it's a super smooth, very street friendly clutch that drives around beautifully. I absolutely love the feel and driveability of it.
All said and done, it's quite a bit of coin for a street/strip clutch, but the gains it has given me, along with the piece of mind of never needing another clutch again (I don't think I'll exceed its capacity), kind of make me forget how much it hit my wallet....
Big thanks to Tony Mamo for exceeding my expectations once again!
There's probably lots of info about this clutch that I'm missing but I'm sure he'll chime in at some point to elaborate.
PM or email him to get your hands on one of these badass units if you don't have one already!
Open to any questions/comments...
Cheers!
Last edited by manzo81maro; 09-06-2017 at 04:05 PM.
09-05-2017, 01:15 AM
#3
Moderator
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: My own internal universe
Posts: 10,446
Received 1,838 Likes
on
1,146 Posts
Your photobucket pics aren't showing up.
I was and still am incredibly happy with mine. I pulled it apart after like 15,000 miles and there was zero wear. Everything within 0.001" of original thicknesses. It's the closest thing to a forever clutch you'll get.
It did take some tuning to return to idle due to loss of angular momentum. Sounds like you got a good tuner. Lots of tuners struggle with lighter clutches.
Nice job on the results. You made great power with that 227/231 cam. You definitely put the time and attention to it that is necessary to optimize a motor. Well done!
I was and still am incredibly happy with mine. I pulled it apart after like 15,000 miles and there was zero wear. Everything within 0.001" of original thicknesses. It's the closest thing to a forever clutch you'll get.
It did take some tuning to return to idle due to loss of angular momentum. Sounds like you got a good tuner. Lots of tuners struggle with lighter clutches.
Nice job on the results. You made great power with that 227/231 cam. You definitely put the time and attention to it that is necessary to optimize a motor. Well done!
09-05-2017, 02:44 AM
#4
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
3 Posts
Your photobucket pics aren't showing up.
I was and still am incredibly happy with mine. I pulled it apart after like 15,000 miles and there was zero wear. Everything within 0.001" of original thicknesses. It's the closest thing to a forever clutch you'll get.
It did take some tuning to return to idle due to loss of angular momentum. Sounds like you got a good tuner. Lots of tuners struggle with lighter clutches.
Nice job on the results. You made great power with that 227/231 cam. You definitely put the time and attention to it that is necessary to optimize a motor. Well done!
I was and still am incredibly happy with mine. I pulled it apart after like 15,000 miles and there was zero wear. Everything within 0.001" of original thicknesses. It's the closest thing to a forever clutch you'll get.
It did take some tuning to return to idle due to loss of angular momentum. Sounds like you got a good tuner. Lots of tuners struggle with lighter clutches.
Nice job on the results. You made great power with that 227/231 cam. You definitely put the time and attention to it that is necessary to optimize a motor. Well done!
Thanks Darth! My tuner is good, however the car still has the odd issue with the return idle, mainly when dumping the clutch for neutral after a WOT pull...quick tap of the gas keeps her alive, I'll live with it for now.
How's yours? Return idle all good?
09-05-2017, 07:37 AM
#5
Moderator
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: My own internal universe
Posts: 10,446
Received 1,838 Likes
on
1,146 Posts
Mines fine. No issues but it took months to get there. If you have HPT I can help you fix it pretty easy.
09-06-2017, 09:59 AM
#7
Awesome results. I am getting ready to hit Tony up for one of these as well. He stressed to me that I can use the OEM hydraulics so I will be using a stock GM Slave and master cylinder. Which slave and MS did you use? Did you retain the tick with the higher pressure? Do you think that makes it "trickier" to get used to? What exactly are you feeling that takes time to get used to? The bite? engine speed increase? Just really gaining all the info I can before I cough up the coin.
Trending Topics
09-06-2017, 02:40 PM
#8
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
3 Posts
Awesome results. I am getting ready to hit Tony up for one of these as well. He stressed to me that I can use the OEM hydraulics so I will be using a stock GM Slave and master cylinder. Which slave and MS did you use? Did you retain the tick with the higher pressure? Do you think that makes it "trickier" to get used to? What exactly are you feeling that takes time to get used to? The bite? engine speed increase? Just really gaining all the info I can before I cough up the coin.
It's a bigger cylinder, which moves more fluid, and therefore takes less pedal stroke, but a little more pedal effort to disengage the clutch
Adjustability eliminates the need to shim your slave cylinder as well...
The RPS wasn't bad at all to get used to coming from my Monster level 2...it's a long way from the stock clutch, and if you're going right to the RPS from stock, it will take more getting used to...but you'll learn to appreciate it very quick!
Takes a little more RPM to get going from a stop and is trickier to slip than stock or the Monster, mainly due to the lighter weight and carbon discs, but it's really not bad for a clutch with the capabilities it has....very streetable!
After a track pass, the clutch is very grabby from a stop, could be due to the heat or deglazing of the discs
I would not steer anyone away from one of these, as long as you're not expecting it to feel/work like stock....because it's wayyyy better! lol
Let me know if any more questions or PM me
Last edited by manzo81maro; 09-06-2017 at 02:47 PM.
09-06-2017, 04:10 PM
#9
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
Great write up!
09-07-2017, 08:07 AM
#11
I'm still using a stock GM slave clyinder, which has no issues...I'm running a Tick master cyl, originally got it to try to fix issues with stock clutch/shifting...it works very well, it's adjustable and has a lifetime warranty...any issues with it, send it back to Tick and they'll repair or replace under warranty
It's a bigger cylinder, which moves more fluid, and therefore takes less pedal stroke, but a little more pedal effort to disengage the clutch
Adjustability eliminates the need to shim your slave cylinder as well...
The RPS wasn't bad at all to get used to coming from my Monster level 2...it's a long way from the stock clutch, and if you're going right to the RPS from stock, it will take more getting used to...but you'll learn to appreciate it very quick!
Takes a little more RPM to get going from a stop and is trickier to slip than stock or the Monster, mainly due to the lighter weight and carbon discs, but it's really not bad for a clutch with the capabilities it has....very streetable!
After a track pass, the clutch is very grabby from a stop, could be due to the heat or deglazing of the discs
I would not steer anyone away from one of these, as long as you're not expecting it to feel/work like stock....because it's wayyyy better! lol
Let me know if any more questions or PM me
It's a bigger cylinder, which moves more fluid, and therefore takes less pedal stroke, but a little more pedal effort to disengage the clutch
Adjustability eliminates the need to shim your slave cylinder as well...
The RPS wasn't bad at all to get used to coming from my Monster level 2...it's a long way from the stock clutch, and if you're going right to the RPS from stock, it will take more getting used to...but you'll learn to appreciate it very quick!
Takes a little more RPM to get going from a stop and is trickier to slip than stock or the Monster, mainly due to the lighter weight and carbon discs, but it's really not bad for a clutch with the capabilities it has....very streetable!
After a track pass, the clutch is very grabby from a stop, could be due to the heat or deglazing of the discs
I would not steer anyone away from one of these, as long as you're not expecting it to feel/work like stock....because it's wayyyy better! lol
Let me know if any more questions or PM me
09-07-2017, 08:48 AM
#12
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
3 Posts
And yes 10's is the goal by the end of the year...probably taking a little more weight out with a K-member, and might step down to 26" tire - should gain some mph at the traps (or just find a 150 LB driver mod
)Send me a PM next time you're heading to Sparta or TMP
Great info and thanks for the follow up. I am torn because I recently came across the Hays Dragon Claw twin disk which is similar-ish to the BPS. It is under 35lbs and although maybe not as refined and extreme as the BPS but is almost half the cost and offers similar capabilities.
1. Ceramic friction vs Carbon RPS (I would think RPS friction should take much more heat/punishment...just think carbon brakes on corvettes)
2. Aluminum flywheel vs Steel RPS (Aluminum flywheel is not as strong and may be harder to street drive than steel RPS, even though the RPS is a lighter assembly...the RPS probably has more inertia than the Dragon Claw because of where the weight sits in the assembly, making it easier to drive/launch)
Mamo will be able to clarify much better, but I'm confident he'll make clear that the RPS is in a whole other world, and is the "holy grail of clutches" as he likes to put it
Just like 99% of the time, you get what you pay for
Last edited by manzo81maro; 09-07-2017 at 09:04 AM.
09-07-2017, 09:02 AM
#13
Moderator
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: My own internal universe
Posts: 10,446
Received 1,838 Likes
on
1,146 Posts
Fwiw, I had the 7/8 tick master and a new GM slave. I actually went to a smaller master. Called tick up to get it so I knew it'd fit right.
Almost everything noted above about being harder to slip, heavier feel, etc, went away with the smaller master.
If I were buying this clutch again, I'd replace the slave with a new GM slave. Leave the stock master. If the stock master acts up, get a tick master but specify the 3/4 or 11/16 bore.
Almost everything noted above about being harder to slip, heavier feel, etc, went away with the smaller master.
If I were buying this clutch again, I'd replace the slave with a new GM slave. Leave the stock master. If the stock master acts up, get a tick master but specify the 3/4 or 11/16 bore.
09-07-2017, 11:34 AM
#14
You can say that again. I already have my entire top end from Tony and have spoke to him twice on this clutch. I am going at a snails pace because its hard to keep giving dropping $3k at a time for a part. This project is taking forever. I don't want to leave anything on the table but there becomes a point where you just never move the project forward. I already know I will end up with the RPS unit. Just trying to explore every last option out there.
Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
If I were buying this clutch again, I'd replace the slave with a new GM slave. Leave the stock master. If the stock master acts up, get a tick master but specify the 3/4 or 11/16 bore.
09-07-2017, 12:35 PM
#15
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
3 Posts
You can say that again. I already have my entire top end from Tony and have spoke to him twice on this clutch. I am going at a snails pace because its hard to keep giving dropping $3k at a time for a part. This project is taking forever. I don't want to leave anything on the table but there becomes a point where you just never move the project forward. I already know I will end up with the RPS unit. Just trying to explore every last option out there.
This is exactly what I wanted to read. This confirms the conversations I had with Tony on this. I was leaning this way but hadn't found anyone who commented on OEM hydraulics with this clutch. I think the Tick is overkill given the low reciprocating mass of this unit. Plus, it helps offset the cost of the clutch.
This is exactly what I wanted to read. This confirms the conversations I had with Tony on this. I was leaning this way but hadn't found anyone who commented on OEM hydraulics with this clutch. I think the Tick is overkill given the low reciprocating mass of this unit. Plus, it helps offset the cost of the clutch.
If you want nothing left on the table, take your time, save up and build it right.
Yes spending all that money to build a car that others are building for a lot less money always hurts at first. But after it's in the car and they're in your rear view mirror (Andrew ehemm!
lol), you literally almost forget about the extra money you spent and you're very happy you did it......until you see your bank statement 
but that's the nature of the beast
09-09-2017, 11:23 PM
#16
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Coast of San Mateo County Between Pacifica & HMB
Posts: 1,822
Received 220 Likes
on
131 Posts
I as well am having the MAMOFIED Lightened RPS BC2 Street Clutch installed
This coming week in my C5 along with New OE GM Master & Slave Units.
I will also will have 6 lb lighter Eaton C5/6 LSD along with R.E.M. Polished
3.42:1 R&P and T56 Internals (by Weddle Industries in Goleta/Santa Barbara
CA. Pre and Post Dynos and discussions in a Driveline Efficiency Thread
Coming Soon.
This coming week in my C5 along with New OE GM Master & Slave Units.
I will also will have 6 lb lighter Eaton C5/6 LSD along with R.E.M. Polished
3.42:1 R&P and T56 Internals (by Weddle Industries in Goleta/Santa Barbara
CA. Pre and Post Dynos and discussions in a Driveline Efficiency Thread
Coming Soon.
09-12-2017, 10:01 AM
#17
10 Second Club
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
3 Posts
Originally Posted by NAVYBLUE210
I as well am having the MAMOFIED Lightened RPS BC2 Street Clutch installed
This coming week in my C5 along with New OE GM Master & Slave Units.
I will also will have 6 lb lighter Eaton C5/6 LSD along with R.E.M. Polished
3.42:1 R&P and T56 Internals (by Weddle Industries in Goleta/Santa Barbara
CA. Pre and Post Dynos and discussions in a Driveline Efficiency Thread
Coming Soon.
This coming week in my C5 along with New OE GM Master & Slave Units.
I will also will have 6 lb lighter Eaton C5/6 LSD along with R.E.M. Polished
3.42:1 R&P and T56 Internals (by Weddle Industries in Goleta/Santa Barbara
CA. Pre and Post Dynos and discussions in a Driveline Efficiency Thread
Coming Soon.
09-15-2018, 01:56 AM
#18
I just got my C5 back with one of these clutches installed. The good news is that it drives great.
The bad news is that something is making noise... Has anyone out there installed one of these and found a whine noise while the clutch pedal is held down?
It sounds a bit like a bad power steering pump.
Goes away when I release the clutch pedal and the clutch engages.
Thanks in advance for any insights.
The bad news is that something is making noise... Has anyone out there installed one of these and found a whine noise while the clutch pedal is held down?
It sounds a bit like a bad power steering pump.
Goes away when I release the clutch pedal and the clutch engages.
Thanks in advance for any insights.
09-15-2018, 07:19 AM
#19
Moderator
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: My own internal universe
Posts: 10,446
Received 1,838 Likes
on
1,146 Posts
Originally Posted by NSFW
I just got my C5 back with one of these clutches installed. The good news is that it drives great.
The bad news is that something is making noise... Has anyone out there installed one of these and found a whine noise while the clutch pedal is held down?
It sounds a bit like a bad power steering pump.
Goes away when I release the clutch pedal and the clutch engages.
Thanks in advance for any insights.
The bad news is that something is making noise... Has anyone out there installed one of these and found a whine noise while the clutch pedal is held down?
It sounds a bit like a bad power steering pump.
Goes away when I release the clutch pedal and the clutch engages.
Thanks in advance for any insights.
09-15-2018, 12:27 PM
#20
There's my worst fear. Those are hard to reach in a C5.
First thing the installer said when I pointed out the noise was "I checked the pilot bearing, it was perfect." And the car only has 39k miles on it, and no such noise when I brought it in for the clutch.
But, that would do it.
I even had "pilot bearing" on the list of things to do, just on principle, and naturally I didn't bring that list when I dropped the car off.
First thing the installer said when I pointed out the noise was "I checked the pilot bearing, it was perfect." And the car only has 39k miles on it, and no such noise when I brought it in for the clutch.
But, that would do it.
I even had "pilot bearing" on the list of things to do, just on principle, and naturally I didn't bring that list when I dropped the car off.