Drill mod issue
11-03-2017, 09:24 AM
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Drill mod issue Last night I got the drill mod done. But right before the drill bit broke thru it caught and the fitting spun inside my holding device. Not the whole hose-just the end piece. I am wondering if this was just the fitting spinning inside the hose? I am thinking it should still be ok since the hose is crimped inside the fitting? Or am I going to have leaks, need to replace the line now...
99z m6
99z m6
11-03-2017, 11:33 AM
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Actually took the master out to clean and make the rod adjustable. Figured I would do the line as well. Since the weather has gotten cold in Indiana the pedal has been kind of lazy coming up. After warm it gets better.
11-06-2017, 06:11 PM
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Just in case this helps someone else. A few things I noted from doing drill mod and modifying the stock master cylinder to be adjustable:
-Reassembling stock cylinder isn’t fun as noted by others. I found it somewhat helpful to remove the reservoir tube from the master cylinder. When you have the piston/seal assy back in the bore you can actually stick a pick or other similar tool in the hole where the reservoir hose goes. It keeps the piston and seals from popping back out. Not far in enough that you can get the ring in using both hands-still have to compress the piston just a tad. But helped me. (I put tape around the master cylinder and pick handle to make sure it didn’t remove itself while I worked).
-I fought getting the master cylinder bolted back in the car. I got the rod thru the hole and put it on the pedal thinking that would hold it in place. It does-just not the way it needs to be. Kept turning this way and that and I could NOT get the ubolt to go thru the holes. Don’t be me, hook up the rod to pedal last.
-I have a mighty vac but opted to do it the old
fashioned way. Cut the hole in the trans tunnel with 1-1/2” hole saw. After about 50 pedal cycles it firmed up nice.
All in all the pedal feels awesome. Fired it up and I actually need to shorten the rod as the car doesn’t even start to roll until the pedal is 3” off the floor. Before completing this I was having to stand on pedal with both feet with car cold to get in first or reverse!
Fluid was disgusting black-and it was gummed up in master cylinder. So will agree 100% with others that say fluid condition is key.
-Reassembling stock cylinder isn’t fun as noted by others. I found it somewhat helpful to remove the reservoir tube from the master cylinder. When you have the piston/seal assy back in the bore you can actually stick a pick or other similar tool in the hole where the reservoir hose goes. It keeps the piston and seals from popping back out. Not far in enough that you can get the ring in using both hands-still have to compress the piston just a tad. But helped me. (I put tape around the master cylinder and pick handle to make sure it didn’t remove itself while I worked).
-I fought getting the master cylinder bolted back in the car. I got the rod thru the hole and put it on the pedal thinking that would hold it in place. It does-just not the way it needs to be. Kept turning this way and that and I could NOT get the ubolt to go thru the holes. Don’t be me, hook up the rod to pedal last.
-I have a mighty vac but opted to do it the old
fashioned way. Cut the hole in the trans tunnel with 1-1/2” hole saw. After about 50 pedal cycles it firmed up nice.
All in all the pedal feels awesome. Fired it up and I actually need to shorten the rod as the car doesn’t even start to roll until the pedal is 3” off the floor. Before completing this I was having to stand on pedal with both feet with car cold to get in first or reverse!
Fluid was disgusting black-and it was gummed up in master cylinder. So will agree 100% with others that say fluid condition is key.