Bellhousing bolts removal
#1
TECH Senior Member
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Any body else struggle with getting the top bellhousing bolt and the far top left (drivers side) bolt out? I just got them out but it took like an hour for those two friggen bolts... Couldn't get a swivel/angle to stay on there for ****. Had to get the top left one out using a ratchet wrench and a crow bar to get an angle on it and break it loose then stick my hand up there for like 20 min using the ratchet wrench to loosen it the rest of the way. Theres no way this is right, is the alignment or height of my engine higher because I have poly motor mounts?
Im worried how im going to get these bolts back in now, any tips? I think for the top left one I going to BFH the side of the trans tunnel to make room for an extension to fit better.
Im worried how im going to get these bolts back in now, any tips? I think for the top left one I going to BFH the side of the trans tunnel to make room for an extension to fit better.
#2
Staging Lane
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I just went through this and yes it is a pain in the ***. I ended up buying a 1/4" pinless impact swivel (because i broke every standard 1/4 swivel i had)and a reducer from 3/8 to 1/4. It gave me just enough clearance by down sizing to 1/4" to get on the bolts. I also bought a 3/8 swivel socket as well but did not try it.
#3
Banned
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When the engine was out, I measured and hit the firewall around the bolts so I could get to them easily. If it isn't a show car, you wouldn't need to body-filler and smooth the area for a picture or anything. Plus it is behind the engine so you can't see it with the engine in.
Last resort is, you can always leave 1 of those bolts out. the worst one.
Actually my true last resort was I thought about drilling a hole from the trans-tunnel through the interior to get an extension on the bolt if necessary. But is wasn't necessary. Believe me when I say there are plenty of alternatives to fighting with those bolts. Part of using a stock engine to hit 500-800 horsepower means you should be able to get them out quickly when the **** hits the fan in your shortblock.
Last resort is, you can always leave 1 of those bolts out. the worst one.
Actually my true last resort was I thought about drilling a hole from the trans-tunnel through the interior to get an extension on the bolt if necessary. But is wasn't necessary. Believe me when I say there are plenty of alternatives to fighting with those bolts. Part of using a stock engine to hit 500-800 horsepower means you should be able to get them out quickly when the **** hits the fan in your shortblock.
#5
TECH Senior Member
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Thanks for the replies all.
To clarify Im talking about the bolts holding the bellhousing to the engine, not the bolts holding the transmission to the bellhousing.
I have the trans out, the bellhousing is mounted to the engine and the very top center bolt and the far left top bolt are near impossible to get to because the trans tunnel is in the way.
Grabbed a pic from a youtube video that shows the bolts really well, these are the ones Im talking about, looks like this guy has way more space to access those bolts than what I do...
I have the trans out, the bellhousing is mounted to the engine and the very top center bolt and the far left top bolt are near impossible to get to because the trans tunnel is in the way.
Grabbed a pic from a youtube video that shows the bolts really well, these are the ones Im talking about, looks like this guy has way more space to access those bolts than what I do...
#6
TECH Fanatic
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Mine is an LT1 so I don't have that top bolt, but the upper left one can be a pain. I use a 9/16 swivel socket (I think yours is metric) to get it. If you need some more room, try putting a jack with a block of wood under the front of the oil pan and gently tilting the engine back.