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Figures after yanking the motor the last flywheel bolt I strip. It is a 12 point arp bolt with red loctite was planning on picking up a torch and bolt extractor. I also torqued the bolts next to it back to spec. Any other suggestions aside from welding as I don't have one?
I’ve never seen a 12 point strip. The point of the 12 point fastener is more holding area to endure a stronger, less prone to strip head. What are those, 12mm? Your prolly gonna have to weld a nut to that...
Have you tried a spline drive socket, one got me out of a pinch the other day,
got one that was a little to small and drove it on with a hammer and used a long
ratchet with a cheater bar and even pressure. Good luck.
Whats the point of using a high tensile bolt if you're going to loctite it and defeat the purpose. It's brittle. Loctite makes it so you're literally twisting the bolt in half when you try to remove it.
They are 13mm arp bolts given they are on the fly wheel, I didn't want to roll the dice on them loosening and also leaking. Regardless here is where I am I'm going to order an extractor set and a high quality 13mm along with picking up a torch.
definitely heat it up to soften the threadlocker as much as possible. I hate loctite. Use thread sealant on the bolts to keep them from leaking when you reinstall....
I'll tell you another weirdo thing you may want to try along with a new socket. Take STEEL WOOL and use it to cover the head before you put the socket on. It will fill all the tiny voids and help transfer the force over more area. I've done this a few times and it did work.
definitely heat it up to soften the threadlocker as much as possible. I hate loctite. Use thread sealant on the bolts to keep them from leaking when you reinstall....
Especially red.
Blue is more than enough if necessary.
The threaded holes on the crankshaft go through, into the crankcase. I defer to use loctite for this application, because I’ve had oil seep through previously, and instead use a sealant compound with Teflon. I believe that ARP recommends 85 ft lbs. on these fasteners, if memory serves?
Keep us updated on the progress!
Have you tried the next socket size down? Not sure if you are dealing with standard or metric, assuming standard, but if you switch to a metric you might be able to get it. Sometimes the metrics are a bit tighter and might be able to grab it.
As the others said, use a decent socket brand. I can't recall seeing a stripped 12 pt head myself. Did an impact gun do that? I red loctite my flywheel bolts and do hit them with an impact to get them loose.
I bought a brand new Craftsman socket and it wouldn't turn it with heat and penetrant. Tried a bolt extractor and couldn't get enough bite. Then I went with an air chisel and had no luck. The arp bolt is too hard to drill out. Looking like a trip to the machine shop will be in order.
I never used an impact for any of these bolts. The final stripping before going to the extractor socket was with a breaker bar. Really needed a 12point extractor but there wasn't one available. In addition to failing to remove the bolt I did some cosmetic damage to my fidanza flywheel. This will be. The first time in a decade or so I've had to pay someone to fix a mistake. I'm bummed.
Figures after yanking the motor the last flywheel bolt I strip. It is a 12 point arp bolt with red loctite was planning on picking up a torch and bolt extractor. I also torqued the bolts next to it back to spec. Any other suggestions aside from welding as I don't have one?
None of those look damaged ??
As others say, red loctite as a very very poor choice, and will absolutely need a torch on it before trying to undo as you need to soften the loctite. A crappy blowtorch probably wont cut it, it'll need mapp gas or similar to get some real heat into it.
If the head size is actually 13mm, 1/2" is a fraction smaller than that, so might be an option ? Better still an impact 1/2" as they're just stronger. Although I think they are 1/2" anyway ? ARP have a bad habit of doing that, metric bolts with imperial heads.
If the head really does get damaged, these tools can be excellent at removing rounded nuts.
But whilst some say a 12pt shouldnt strip, it does have to be said that the ARP bolts here are ****. The depth of the spline is crap so socket engagement also usually crap. In many cases I'd say these need re-newed at laast every change or couple of changes because the head can tend to get a little damage because of the need for threadlock and the torque they require.
ARP really should make these better with more spline depth.
As for welding options....that would impart a lot of heat too which can help melt the loctite....and worst case again, a basic arc welder can be bought very cheaply and would probably be fine to try and sort that.
But no matter what you do here, a lot of heat is required...and judging from the debris around some of those removed in the photo...go a little easier on the loctite next time around too...looks like a ton has been used.
I only use red on larger bolts like suspension pieces. That and I have a Milwaukee M18 Fuel to take things off with. Pretty sure only a speck of blue would have been enough for a bolt this size. I'm 99% sure there is a fastener size rating for each color.
And agreed on the ARP bolts. Pretty sure the ones i've used have been a weird hybrid metric/SAE. Almost no bolt head after the flange either. Good luck. And as stated a bunch of heat will need to be generated somehow.
12-23-2017, 08:00 PM
Stripped 12 point arp flywheel bolt, help! 
