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Back story. I had a Mcleod adj master. last few months it had been getting progressively worse. Notchy shifts, harder to get into 1st reverse, having to double clutch to get into lower gears coming to a stop. Bled the system, same if not worse. I could start the car, get it into gear easily. let the clutch out and back in, then it would be impossible until I let the clutch out and pushed it back in. The Mcleod had no pressure the first 1/4 in of pushing the pedal so decided to call up Tick and explain the issue and order one of their units.
Fast forward to today and got the unit installed, bled and adjusted and same issue. Car starts, goes into 1st/R easy. Put in Neutral and let the clutch out, then push clutch back in, cannot go into gear until I release the clutch in N and press it again.
Trans was rebuilt in 2012 with new Syncros, clutch is monster stg2, slave is Sachs and all put in when I did the LQ4 conversion back in 2013 and have less than 2k on them. Car is driven maybe 500 miles a year. Not drag raced or launched hard at all since it is built for HPDE events. Part of me thinks slave cyl, another thinks maybe something internal or needs fluid change for the trans. Grasping at straws here because I am inches away from putting this thing at the curb with a for sale sign.
Well, system has been bleed every which way I can do it. Not a single bubble and I have adjusted the master just as many times with no change. Leaning towards slave but looking at it on my scope it moves freely. Might just yank the trans and send the clutch/pp/Fly off to Monster for inspection and replace the slave and pilot if the clutch unit checks out. At whit's end.
Not sure if the McLeod is 100%. Even with a bench bleed, there is slop at the top of the initial push by hand with the slave disconnected. I did pull the starter and using my scope I can see the disk pull away. One side pulls away a bit slower like it is hanging up, seems to be PP side.
if disc is hanging on input shaft splines you can have disengagement issues. Generally this happens when a clutch is installed without cleaning input shaft splines and putting a thin coat of high temp grease on the spline area the disc travels on
any MC can fail. McLeod uses Wilwood MC and Tick uses Tilton. I have the McLeod MC. I did bench bleed it and there is ZERO slop in it
If disc comes away from FW the clutch should disengage
My Mcleod was used, so not fitted with a wilwood. chrome bodied? worked great when I first got it.
When I did my conversion, the input shaft was brand new, but the car sees about 500 miles a year if that. I did have to store it for a year while my house was being built and seems the storage place was quite damp. I had an issue with the bendix on my starter sticking when I pulled it from storage in 2015 that required me to take out the starter and free it. When I put the scope in there this past week, I could see surface rust on the PP fingers in certain places, but nothing outrageous. I'll have to see if I can get a better look at everything with the scope before I pull it all out.
I just ordered a new GM slave, pilot, and speed bleeder just in case.
McLeod used to use the Tilton MC. IDK about LSx MC McLeod used but the Tilton one they used for LT1 proved to be problematic in that the hole side in the piston chamber was not chamfered and caused the rubber piston cup to tear. IDK if their earlier LSx MC's had the same issue
cars stored over long periods, especially not in climate control, can get corrosion from moisture that affect many things. Often that kind of corrosion is overcome with use once the car is brought back out of storage but in some cases certain parts need replacement because of it if just starting/driving the car does not "clear things up"
This is the unit, not sure that is the guy I bought it from but might be? Worked great and might just need to be run through by McLeod. Should just send it out to them for a rebuild and let someone else use it or just save it as a spare.
yeah that is the Tilton one McLeod used before switching over to Wilwood. Back then rebuild kits were stupid $ and would fail same as new ones eventually. There is a wheel cylinder brake kit that costs about $2 at NAPA that supposedly was the same size cup people used instead. The problem is the rubber cup would hit the small hole in bore that had a sharp edge and cut the cup making it leak and not hold pressure
I have the 13/16" bore Wilwood one McLeod sells. It came with my Street Twin clutch
Hard to tell if the slave was leaking since I'd been bleeding it, but it sure looks like it. Input shaft was DRY. Even after getting the trans off the dowels, I had to wiggle shake and pry the trans off the disk. Polished it them with scotchbrite and fine emory cloth until the disk slid on and off with ease, then greased the splines a bit and getting it all back in the car was SOOO much easier. Still have to get the car back together and trans filled tomorrow but crossing my fingers this fixes it.
On a side note, glad I went with Vbands on my headers and Y pipe worth every penny so far.
Ok, got it all back together. After a few bleed sessions and adjustment of the tick master, it is better. Still notchy going into first, but not 5 sec lockout like it was before (might need more adjustment yet). I could not find Dex 3 ANYWHERE, just universal this or that. Ended up using Castrol Transmax Dex/merc. Trans is def quieter. Still have to double check bolts and then strap away the hoses and harness before I can put it on the ground and go for a street test. Not putting the console back in until I know for sure I am not changing fluid again.
Also, those with the HF Transmission jack (scissor type) How high do you have to get your car to fit underneath the car? Mine just showed up after all this. I have the car up about 17.5" to the rockers. Before I keep this thing, will I need to go higher than that in order to fit this thing in the future?
Thanks, that is what I was worried about. I actually got the trans in just using my plank of wood (12inx1/2inx18in), a couple of 2x4 chunks to hold it on each side, then a strapped it to the board straight up. Dragged that onto the jack and as I raised it, it leveled perfect and I had no issues. If I have to pull this thing again this weekend, I'll just do it that way and send this thing back.
Test drive done, all good. Still notchy, but I can get into gear downshifting, shift at 5500 with ease and engagement is at the bottom of the pedal which took some getting used to. Not sure if I tweaked something but I get a vibration at 2k which I don't feel in the shifter, but rather the body of the car from the rear if that makes sense? Going to get it up in the air and check the torque arm and exhaust because it wasn't there when the car was up on jacks I don't think. You can literally feel the exhaust pulses, which makes me think I tweaked something.
All in all, a success. some clean up work and I move onto my noisy lifter.
if you didn't mark your u joints so they went back on yoke as they came off...might want to just unbolt from rear and turn 180 degrees and bolt back on
it could be something else, just adding that as a possibility
This is not moving at 2k rev Clutch in clutch out, no change. The engine and the shifter are steady as a rock but you can feel it in the body, almost like I have solid mounts on the motor and trans (I have poly motor mounts, poly TA, and poly trans mount). I moved around the exhaust and it got better, tomorrow I'm going to lower it completely and see. My vbands are leaking so I need to reseat them anyways and take it for another test run.
The muffler is REALLY close to the floorboard back there now so something moved.
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Hydraulics Issue? 
